Well Seal Electrical Conduit

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akcooper9

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How are you guys protecting the wire that powers the pump after it exits the well seal? Here is how mine is. Any suggestions?

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Valveman

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That double-jacketed wire is good stuff. You probably don’t need anything else for protection. You could just silicone up the gap in the seal. However, the proper way would be to slide a rigid nipple over the wire, and screw it into the blue well seal. Then use a changeover from the rigid nipple to seal tight conduit and run the flexible conduit to the box.
 

Valveman

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Ha Ha that’s pretty funny. My wife says my problem is so many things in the pump business have names that are phallic. A crossover sheet for pump jargon would have to be rated X.
 

DonL

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That is funny.

I got in trouble when Terry changed his Fav Icon to the heart.

She wanted to know why I was at a dating site.


Have Fun Everyone.
 

Craigpump

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Most of those well seals come with rubber inserts and a jam type nut to seal the wire. A lot of guys use silicone like Valveman said or electricians dum dum
 

akcooper9

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Im gonna try the 'ridged nipple' first as it doesn't appear I have a lot of room to play with due to the 'sucker' tube in the middle.

Im just trying to get my equipment set in a permanent long lasting place. But so far, we have enjoyed the well a great deal.
 

akcooper9

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Thanks for the help guys. I got everything set how I wanted it.

One question after using the rigid nipple and the seal tight conduit, I get a sucking noise from the blue cap on the well seal. Is that normal? I was thinking about getting another rigid nipple and some other fittings to make a "J" so it can breath. Thoughts?

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Craigpump

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Yep, wells need to breathe.

The sucking sound you hear is the vacuum being created in the well when the pump is running and the water level is dropping. When the pump shuts off the water coming in will displace the air.
 

Reach4

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I am thinking about freezing in North Texas. Maybe you are not in the colder parts.
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I am also curious what the grey tube is on that manifold with the gauge. I figured out that the box is your pressure switch, and the tubing to that box is electrical. But that leaves a water tube doing something.
 
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Valveman

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That little blue plug opposite where the wire goes through is for a vent. You need another rigid nipple, two elbows, and a screen. This way the vent is pointed down to keep out rain and the screen keeps bugs from getting sucked in.

The garden hose is how a lot of people irrigate the yard. If you remove the check valve on the discharge side of the well head and replace it with a CSV your pump system will last longer and be more “permanent”. The extra check valve will cause problems sooner or later and the CSV would keep the pump from cycling on/off to death while you are using a garden hose.
 

akcooper9

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Yup, its a water hose. Im using it until I get a chance to rent a trencher so I can run some more lines. In a perfect world, I wont even use that hose bib

VM we've talked on the phone before. I think a CSV is the way to go. Of course I know more today then I did a few months ago when I had the well done. Do I just PM you for the secret password on pricing :)

Also you're saying the CSV replaced the brass check valve? That seems so easy.

As for the freezing questions, the line under ground to the pressure tank is below the frost line and Ill be covering the well head and pressure tank before winter hits. Still debating on boxes with insulation for each or whats the best method to going about protecting them.
 

Valveman

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With a CSV running a garden hose is OK because the pump will not cycle as long as you are using more than 1 GPM. Yep removing the check valve at the wellhead is good and would be a great place to install the CSV1A.
 

DonL

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I would also install lightning protection, I did not see any ?

It will save pulling the pump. North Texas has some neat lightning shows. Some can start and end in the bottom of a well.


Have Fun.
 
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