Repair of replace advice

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DonL

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WHOA nj DUDE!! I'm thinking that just maybe that old brass valve you have had for the last 20 years has been leaching too much lead into your water, or I could be really hurt by your attitude....

lol


That might explain my problem my problem my problem.

Lead never affected me me me.
 

DonL

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I think time will tell if the new stuff will last a long as the old school lead containing stuff.

It has not been long enough to compare yet.

Only time will tell.


But my bet is the old stuff is better.
 

rfreda

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WHOA nj DUDE!! I'm thinking that just maybe that old brass valve you have had for the last 20 years has been leaching too much lead into your water, or I could be really hurt by your attitude....

LOL. no attitude here! I'm just a newb that wasn't aware you guys enjoy arguing with each other and don't discriminate where you do it!
 

ditttohead

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We have done accellerated low-no lead brass testing, so far it is much better, but it is much more expensive, harder to machine, and in many cases can be replaced with stainless for a comparable cost.

A topic that is rarely discussed is the efficiency and capacities of resins over time. It is rarely brought up because most softeners are not set to regenerate at depletion, but well ahead of depletion. If a softener loses 10-20% of its capacity over time (normal) most people would never know because the systems regenerate well ahead of the time the resin becomes wxhausted.

20 years old... can you budget for a new softener yet? It would not be a bad idea, maybe not totally necessary since it appears you have a very high end unit to begin with.
 

rfreda

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Here's a couple pics of my control valve. I just added 80 lbs. of salt as I usually keep it around half full, let's see how long it takes before the salt hits the water line in the tank and I need to add more. WS 1.jpgWS 2.jpg
 

ditttohead

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Neat! That is a rare find. The cost of the brass meter was very expensive (and still is) and made it a rare item on the 2500 control valve. That thing is built like a M1 Abrams Tank and is easily serviced and maintained. All of the parts are still readily available, and that valve is still manufactured, though very few are sold nowadays. If you open the timer, you will see the date stamped on a white sticker next to the micro-switches.

Do you have a bypass? Most residential valves now have a bypass as an easy to install option. The 2500, 1500, 2700, 2750 did not have that and required a divertaflo or 3 valve bypass. The 2510 is a nearly identical valve, but in plastic and with a bypass option.
 

Mialynette2003

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Looking at that valve has brought a tear to my eyes. I remember making bypasses for that unit. One think that looks to be very normal with that valve. It appears that the brine valve is stuck in the open position.
 

rfreda

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Looking at that valve has brought a tear to my eyes. I remember making bypasses for that unit. One think that looks to be very normal with that valve. It appears that the brine valve is stuck in the open position.

thanks guys, nice to know this is good stuff even if it's 20 years old. I have to pull the receipt but i do remember it not being cheap back in 1993. If the brine valve is stuck open do I need to get that fixed?
 

rfreda

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Yes, If it is sticking it will need to be repaired.
Good Luck.

what problems do a sticking brine valve cause? From a quick search it appears that there may be more water in the salt tank than required. I have noticed the water line is higher, more than 1/3 up the tank. The last time the company came out they drew a line on the tank where the water should be in normal operation, and I think it's higher than that.
 

Mialynette2003

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The valve is set to allow a certain amount of water in the brine tank to use x amount of salt. With the brine valve stuck in the open position, water is allowed to fill the brine tank until the safety shut off stops the flow. This will cause excessive salt useage.
 

DonL

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It will cause the problem that you are seeing. It will use more salt.

If the water get high enough it will run your salt water out the overflow.


Good Luck.
 

rfreda

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Thanks guys - I knew this salt usage was abnormal. I will call for a visit and would like to revisit the resin discussion again. Given this is good equipment with serviceable parts, it sounds like changing out the resin may make sense to prolong the service of this system.

As mentioned earlier, I think they want $300 to do it when I know I can get the resin for $100 or so but I don't have the time/experience to do this.

Would you throw like $500 (guess) into this equipment or trade it in? Similar quality equipment can't be cheap today and I'm thinking they'll give me a digital controller which is less reliable in the long run than what I've got. Opinions?
 

DonL

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My opinion can be taken with a grain of salt.

I try to work on everything in my own home. I have found nothing that can not be fixed, If you throw enough money at it.

You can learn what makes it work. The Internet is a great place for info.

You have sites like this one that have pros that are glad to help, if you need it.

Terrylove.com is the best. And you get the opinions of others that will tell you how to do it best.


I would fix it myself, and save a few hundred. But that is just my thought.


Good Luck.
 
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Gary Slusser

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rfreda,

There are a number of causes for too much water in the salt tank..... From the most frequent to the least frequent... loose brine line fittings that allow air suction instead of heavy brine water (including the one under the safety overflow valve where the brine pick up tube connects to the valve, blocked injector or injector screen, or blocked drain line. In my experience it is rare for your type brine valve to leak water into the salt tank but it could be leaking. You can test that by disconnecting the brine line from the valve and seeing if you get water out of the valve after any water in it drains out.

You tighten plastic brine line fittings with plastic ferrules hand tight plus a 1/2 turn; if brass nuts and brass ferrules go hand tight plus a full turn. If they have been tightened more than that, it usually deforms the brine tubing and you should cut off about 3/4" and reinstall tightening them correctly.
 

rfreda

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Not sure which way to go - I'm not doing this myself and have a quote from the water company. Estimated quote for a new brine valve, replacement of resin, and replacement/repair of piston and seals (if needed since I mentioned that the piston blew a few years ago) is ~$450-500. Hopefully that's worst case. The resin is $150 and they charge $89/hr.

I also asked for a quote on a new unit. The price is $1,338 after a $281 trade-in credit, with a 5 year warranty on the valve. Computerized valve control, salesman claims a 30-50% reduction in salt usage, and I told him I already have a metered unit and would the savings be less. He said yes, but would still be more efficient than the old unit. It is a Clack valve as a prior poster mentioned.

So is it worth it to get new technology and replace 20 year old equipment for the $900 or so differential? I don't plan on moving either.

Thoughts?
 

Mialynette2003

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That's not a bad price for a Clack installed. Make sure it is a metered unit. I always ask at what point do you trade in a car that is nickle and diming you? The motor or motors are not being replaced. If they go out in a couple months, you have another service charge. I'm not trying to get you to buy a new unit, but that is the things to consider.
 

rfreda

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It is a metered unit, and that was my thinking as well - I don't want to throw another $500 at this again in the next few years. I got 20 years out of it, I think it's time.

Thanks
 

DonL

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It is a metered unit, and that was my thinking as well - I don't want to throw another $500 at this again in the next few years. I got 20 years out of it, I think it's time.

Thanks


With the price of salt on the rise it may be a good move to just replace it.

Salt savings alone would be a good plus.


Good Luck.
 
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