(206) 949-5683, Top Rated Plumber, Seattle
Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 42

Thread: Repair of replace advice

  1. #16
    DIY Junior Member rfreda's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    13

    Default

    not to be an ingrate guys but can you please take your lead content fight anywhere else but on my thread!

  2. #17
    DIY Senior Member mialynette2003's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Ocala, Florida
    Posts
    663

    Default

    Just because you have lost resin does not mean the unit will use more salt than it use to. Some of the reasons for using more salt are: an adjustment was made to the amount of refill, an adjustment was made to the meter wheel causing a regen sooner, the brine valve is not seating properly dripping water into the brine tank between regens. To check this, simply remove the brine line from the valve and see if it drips. A leak in the house will cause more regens which will use more salt. I hope this helps.

  3. #18
    In the Trades Tom Sawyer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Maine
    Posts
    2,933

    Default

    A toilet with a leaking flush valve is a prime suspect.

    Its not just your thread, we fight on most of them LOL,
    [B]No, plumbing ain't rocket science. Unlike rocket science, plumbing requires a license[B]

  4. #19
    Jack of all trades DonL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    3,632

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Sawyer View Post
    A toilet with a leaking flush valve is a prime suspect.

    Its not just your thread, we fight on most of them LOL,
    lol


    Could also be the cheap salt that is being used.
    Theory only works perfect in a vacuum.

    Cyber Security Protection for Windows C:\ > WWW.WinForce.Net

  5. #20
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Wherever I park the motorhome.
    Posts
    6,790

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rfreda View Post
    not to be an ingrate guys but can you please take your lead content fight anywhere else but on my thread!
    WHOA nj DUDE!! I'm thinking that just maybe that old brass valve you have had for the last 20 years has been leaching too much lead into your water, or I could be really hurt by your attitude....
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  6. #21
    Jack of all trades DonL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    3,632

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Gary Slusser View Post
    WHOA nj DUDE!! I'm thinking that just maybe that old brass valve you have had for the last 20 years has been leaching too much lead into your water, or I could be really hurt by your attitude....
    lol


    That might explain my problem my problem my problem.

    Lead never affected me me me.
    Theory only works perfect in a vacuum.

    Cyber Security Protection for Windows C:\ > WWW.WinForce.Net

  7. #22
    In the Trades Tom Sawyer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Maine
    Posts
    2,933

    Default

    Who are hou people and why am I here?
    [B]No, plumbing ain't rocket science. Unlike rocket science, plumbing requires a license[B]

  8. #23
    Jack of all trades DonL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    3,632

    Default

    I think time will tell if the new stuff will last a long as the old school lead containing stuff.

    It has not been long enough to compare yet.

    Only time will tell.


    But my bet is the old stuff is better.
    Theory only works perfect in a vacuum.

    Cyber Security Protection for Windows C:\ > WWW.WinForce.Net

  9. #24
    DIY Junior Member rfreda's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    13

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Gary Slusser View Post
    WHOA nj DUDE!! I'm thinking that just maybe that old brass valve you have had for the last 20 years has been leaching too much lead into your water, or I could be really hurt by your attitude....
    LOL. no attitude here! I'm just a newb that wasn't aware you guys enjoy arguing with each other and don't discriminate where you do it!

  10. #25
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    California
    Posts
    1,707
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    We have done accellerated low-no lead brass testing, so far it is much better, but it is much more expensive, harder to machine, and in many cases can be replaced with stainless for a comparable cost.

    A topic that is rarely discussed is the efficiency and capacities of resins over time. It is rarely brought up because most softeners are not set to regenerate at depletion, but well ahead of depletion. If a softener loses 10-20% of its capacity over time (normal) most people would never know because the systems regenerate well ahead of the time the resin becomes wxhausted.

    20 years old... can you budget for a new softener yet? It would not be a bad idea, maybe not totally necessary since it appears you have a very high end unit to begin with.

  11. #26
    DIY Junior Member rfreda's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    13

    Default

    Here's a couple pics of my control valve. I just added 80 lbs. of salt as I usually keep it around half full, let's see how long it takes before the salt hits the water line in the tank and I need to add more.Name:  WS 1.jpg
Views: 30
Size:  85.4 KBName:  WS 2.jpg
Views: 30
Size:  86.7 KB

  12. #27
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    California
    Posts
    1,707
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    Neat! That is a rare find. The cost of the brass meter was very expensive (and still is) and made it a rare item on the 2500 control valve. That thing is built like a M1 Abrams Tank and is easily serviced and maintained. All of the parts are still readily available, and that valve is still manufactured, though very few are sold nowadays. If you open the timer, you will see the date stamped on a white sticker next to the micro-switches.

    Do you have a bypass? Most residential valves now have a bypass as an easy to install option. The 2500, 1500, 2700, 2750 did not have that and required a divertaflo or 3 valve bypass. The 2510 is a nearly identical valve, but in plastic and with a bypass option.

  13. #28
    DIY Senior Member mialynette2003's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Ocala, Florida
    Posts
    663

    Default

    Looking at that valve has brought a tear to my eyes. I remember making bypasses for that unit. One think that looks to be very normal with that valve. It appears that the brine valve is stuck in the open position.

  14. #29
    DIY Junior Member rfreda's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    13

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mialynette2003 View Post
    Looking at that valve has brought a tear to my eyes. I remember making bypasses for that unit. One think that looks to be very normal with that valve. It appears that the brine valve is stuck in the open position.
    thanks guys, nice to know this is good stuff even if it's 20 years old. I have to pull the receipt but i do remember it not being cheap back in 1993. If the brine valve is stuck open do I need to get that fixed?

  15. #30
    Jack of all trades DonL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    3,632

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rfreda View Post
    If the brine valve is stuck open do I need to get that fixed?

    Yes, If it is sticking it will need to be repaired.


    Good Luck.
    Theory only works perfect in a vacuum.

    Cyber Security Protection for Windows C:\ > WWW.WinForce.Net

Similar Threads

  1. When to repair - when to replace?
    By shendrick in forum Water Heater Forum, Tanks
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 12-31-2012, 11:57 AM
  2. Repair or Replace?
    By momof6 in forum Water Softener Forum, problems, installation and reviews
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 11-18-2010, 09:20 AM
  3. Repair or replace?
    By adamw in forum Water Heater Forum, Tanks
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 12-13-2009, 02:38 PM
  4. Repair, replace, or????
    By david3394 in forum Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 08-10-2009, 01:32 PM
  5. Need Advice: Repair or replace system
    By hans_idle in forum HVAC Heating & Cooling
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 09-11-2008, 06:50 AM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •