Which water softener should I buy...getting desperate!

IMO the Clack WS-1 would be a better choice for those (dealers, plumbers, drillers) that want to repair rather than replace valves when there is a problem. Fleck still has you disconnect the valve from the plumbing to get to their turbine where Clack's comes out the side of the outlet in about 10 seconds but, you've said you don't repair so I guess I'm talking to those others.

Wow, the meter can be serviced from the side, so it is better? How often do you have to repair or replace the meter on a Fleck or Clack? Every 10-20 years if that? Testing the Fleck meter is much simpler to troubleshoot since its cord is not integrated. Wouldnt that make it better? We could do this all day, but dont you ever get tired of it?

Upflow regeneration, yaya, I have 2 customers that bother with that, and they only do it for marketing reasons, not for actual function or efficiencies.

The 7000 can be used on systems down to 8" without a problem, and up to 24" in diameter for both softener of backwashing systems. The 7000 can also accomodate external relays, internal relays, microswitching, and even has a PLC light version available in the NXT and XTR board configrations with flow controlled outputs, and extensive programming capabilities that is not available on the Clack. that being said, so what.

Both clack WS1 and 7000 are excellent. I have already shown that the 7000 is more compact than the old 5600 electromechanical or the 2510 electromechanical valves. i never see you complain about their size.

Where have you shown that the 7000 is more compact than electromechanical 5600 or 2510?

How does the 7000 compare size wise to the electronic versions of the 5600 and 2510?

Sigh, you really want me to go searching through old threads to show you? I will pass, but thanks anyway. You can do the search if your memory is fading that fast.

Here is a picture of the two valves, 5600 and 7000 with meter, bypass, plumbing connectors. The 5600 electronic turbine meter saves approximately 2"

The Fleck 7000 is about 1/16" shorter than the 5600 and 2510 electromechanical meter systems. You get so strangely stuck on how huge the 7000 is, I guess if you consider 2" huge lol!

Gary Slusser said:

IMO the Clack WS-1 would be a better choice for those (dealers, plumbers, drillers) that want to repair rather than replace valves when there is a problem. Fleck still has you disconnect the valve from the plumbing to get to their turbine where Clack's comes out the side of the outlet in about 10 seconds but, you've said you don't repair so I guess I'm talking to those others.

Click to expand...

Yer gonna hafta find where I said I don't repair valves cause I don't believe I'd ever say that. In fact I've got a 2510 sitting on the bench right now that's getting refurbed for an elderly couple that can't afford a new valve.

I have been using 7000 for 8 months now, love it but....

First I did complain about the softner not getting the water soft enough, trying to increase the brine time but fail. After so many attemp, I spot the problem. The design of 7000 valve.... either brine timer fail or I need a bigger brine tank. I set the brine time to 40, which should give me about 10 gallons of water to dissolve 30lbs of salts for a 15 lbs/cuft setting (64k grain). The water will stop filling brine tank at last 16 min remaining. I'm doing my research maybe overflow valve stop filling up the brine tank or I need a bigger brine tank? Call my installer about the recall on Fleck 7000 valve, but the response is: if it isn't broken, I cannot get it replace....lol Oh well, I have no choice but looking for easier solution: fill the brine tank manually by adding 3 to 4 gallons of water after each regeneration..... Now, my baby girl can enojoy real soft water.

The water is soft and flows were great, but I have to add water to brine tank after each regeneration. The decision is yours.

I'm not sure why Fleck valve distributor will not allow me to exchange a recall unit. Maybe Dittohead might know?? Or Jason doesn't want to do the job?? I referral my friend to him....anyway good luck.

The float in the salt tank may have to be raised to allow more refill water into the tank or.... take some salt out of it and don't fill it full.

You are getting terrible salt efficiency. If you needed 60,000 grains between regenerations, you should have bought a larger softener. 15lbs/cuft gets you 2000 grains/lb.

On another post here it was discovered that the float assemble was not set properly to allow enough water into the brine tank. So the correction to your problem may be a simple adjustment of the float.

Raising the float height is very simple but setting the unit to 15 pounds per cu. ft. is not a good idea. Look inside the brine well, the floats can be adjusted to shut off at any height. Most are just rubber sliders that control the height of the float.

Silver, do you have a Hach 5B test kit? Sounds like you are trying to achieve 1 PPM hardness, very inefficient.

As Dittohead mention in other thread, it is a Clack safety float. Simply remove the pin, cut the rod shorter, drill a small hole on the shortened shaft, reinstall, good to go. It is not adjustable...

It is not about salt efficiency, I just want my family enjoy real soft water. I don't mind carry the salts home. I'll re-adjust the brine time down to 12lbs setting and see how it goes.