(206) 949-5683, Top Rated Plumber, Seattle
Results 1 to 8 of 8

Thread: Need Plumbing layout advice

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member StevenW1969's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    North Muskegon, MI
    Posts
    7

    Default Need Plumbing layout advice

    I have a renovation project that I have been working on and have to replace the sewer main pipe and all the interior plumbing. I got the main sewer pipe run it has a 1/2" drop per foot to the septic tank and have tried to keep this same drop throughout the rest of the drains. I attached some photo's of what I have so far. I know I will need a vent pipe for each drain since they will be more than 7-8 feet away from each other. I will use the same size vent as what the drain is so I don't get the gurgling sound when using one of them.

    The advice I need is the junction where the sewer main comes into the home. I currently have a 4" 4 way and it just seems like this is wrong that the fitting I need should direct the flow of the waste towards the main line and not just to the main pipe as shown. I haven't glued anything together yet I wanted to test fit everything before I commit my components.

    Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

    Name:  Plumbing (1) (960x1280).jpg
Views: 255
Size:  59.2 KB

    Name:  Plumbing (2) (960x1280).jpg
Views: 180
Size:  67.9 KB

    Name:  Plumbing (3) (1280x960).jpg
Views: 180
Size:  50.0 KB

    Name:  Plumbing (4) (960x1280).jpg
Views: 175
Size:  60.6 KB

    Name:  Plumbing (5) (1280x960).jpg
Views: 182
Size:  46.4 KB
    Last edited by Terry; 09-26-2013 at 03:33 PM.

  2. #2
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    New England
    Posts
    21,410

    Default

    That cross is not the right fitting for that location. Also, there is NO need to make your vent lines that big! Air moves much more freely than the liquid waste. Plus, gurgling may actually be an indication of a well-draining line. If it's very quiet, it may not be flowing well.

    WRT the slope...as long at any section has at least 1/4" per foot drop, it CAN vary as long as there are no flat spots, bellies, or rises in the pipe run...IOW, it must be a down slope the entire way.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  3. #3
    Nuclear Engineer nukeman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    VA
    Posts
    696

    Default

    I'm not a plumber, but it looks like you have a few problems.

    1. that cross is not going to fly. things need to be directed with the flow. you may need a double wye, double combo, etc.

    2. You better check on whether you can use that SDR pipe inside. Most plumbers here don't like it even outside. Around here, it wouldn't pass code for under the building (but would be okay from the building to the street). SDR may be okay in your area as I recall another user (also from MI, I think) that was using SDR for a toilet. It was asked where he would even find a flange for that, but he was able to get one locally. In most areas, you would do everything in Sch. 40 (when working w/ plastic). Personally, I would use Sch. 40.

    3. Is that line coming down along the wall a vent or a drain?

    You should also post a diagram on how you plan to tie everything together. Distances, clean outs, fitting type, venting, etc. are all important.

  4. #4
    DIY Senior Member Reach4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    IL
    Posts
    1,257

    Default

    How deep should his line to the septic tank be below ground? I don't think he needed so much slope.

  5. #5
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Bothell, Washington
    Posts
    14,202
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    Here is a nice link to Bert Polk's plumbing tips

    First off, that four way fitting needs to go.

    All horizontal change of direction needs to be a wye fitting.

    Going from vertical to horizontal needs to be a "long" turn 90, or a wye fitting. The Medium 90 at the far end needs to be changed.



    If this is meant to be a toilet with vent at the wall,
    You would be better off using a wye fitting on the horizonal on the downhill side of the toilet for the vent, and then bringing the vent up to the wall.
    A vent is better off at a 45 then being run horizonl below grade.

    I don't think you have the correct pipe either.
    Last edited by Terry; 09-26-2013 at 03:34 PM.

  6. #6
    In the Trades Gary Swart's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Yakima WA
    Posts
    7,246

    Default

    Dry fitting PVC doesn't work. PVC joints need solvent applied when the joint is made so the pipe will bottom out in the fitting. Dry fit will not bottom out so when properly assembled, there will be a lose of spacing. Also, dry fit PVC can be very difficult to disassemble.

  7. #7
    In the Trades Tom Sawyer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Maine
    Posts
    2,940

    Default

    Everything everyone else has said plus I doubt like hell that that blue SDR is going to fly. I know that I would not accept it.
    [B]No, plumbing ain't rocket science. Unlike rocket science, plumbing requires a license[B]

  8. #8
    DIY Junior Member StevenW1969's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    North Muskegon, MI
    Posts
    7

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Terry View Post
    Here is a nice link to Bert Polk's plumbing tips

    First off, that four way fitting needs to go.

    All horizontal change of direction needs to be a wye fitting.

    Going from vertical to horizontal needs to be a "long" turn 90, or a wye fitting. The Medium 90 at the far end needs to be changed.

    If this is meant to be a toilet with vent at the wall,
    You would be better off using a wye fitting on the horizonal on the downhill side of the toilet for the vent, and then bringing the vent up to the wall.
    A vent is better off at a 45 then being run horizonl below grade.

    I don't think you have the correct pipe either.

    Thanks Terry For the "Bert Polk's Plumbing Tips" what a huge help that is. I see where I went wrong. I decided to study this pdf for a few days and it has opened my eyes to a lot of misconceptions I had. Since then I took all my purchased fittings back to the hardware and got a refund. I will draw up how I want each drain to be. I have laid out a floor plan of how the new bathroom will look when we are done.

    click here to see the floor plan

    I read our local code and spoke with a few plumbers and they told me that the green pipe is allowed but they said they would not recommend it for sewer, they also said that is used more for drain fields or directing water from landscaping or rain gutter water. Definitely not used for sewer even tho it is allowed.

    I have decided to go with Schedule 40 for the whole project, I realize it will cost more but knowing that the system is solid is definitely worth it.

    I was also wondering what is allowed for being under the slab as far as p-traps , gravel, insulation.

    -p-Traps: I take it I should be using a solvent type not threaded type for under cement slab.
    -Gravel: makes me wonder if it should be under the pipes will it vibrate a hole in it after a while or am I safe?
    -Insulation: I seen Mike Holmes on TV put pink Styrofoam insulation just under the cement and just above gravel is this necessary?

    I want to put a clean out just outside the house on the main sewer line, maybe a double so I can go both ways if need be. Does this sound alright?

    The bathroom floor plan and toilet location changed since I posted this originally. After reading your and others advice & much discussion with my spouse we decided it best to take the time and plan what we need instead of throwing it together on the fly.

    Thanks guys for all your help and feel free to give anymore advice it is greatly appreciated. I do however need to get this finished before snow fly's and it is only a couple months away.

    Last edited by Terry; 10-01-2013 at 04:45 PM. Reason: added pic

Similar Threads

  1. DWV Layout Advice Needed
    By moserro in forum Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & Tricks
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 07-06-2010, 06:53 PM
  2. Layout advice for new 3pc basement rough in
    By jklaus in forum Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & Tricks
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 04-05-2007, 07:19 PM
  3. Bathroom Re-model Layout Advice #2a
    By ralft in forum Remodel Forum & Blog
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 08-11-2006, 03:48 PM
  4. Bathroom Re-model Layout Advice
    By cjt in forum Remodel Forum & Blog
    Replies: 23
    Last Post: 08-02-2006, 06:26 AM
  5. Bathroom Re-model Layout Advice #2
    By ralft in forum Remodel Forum & Blog
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 07-22-2006, 05:26 AM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •