Lowering 3/4 hp submersible pump down 100ft

Users who are viewing this thread

nc73

Member
Messages
36
Reaction score
3
Points
8
Location
Miamisburg, OH
Recent test showed good water quality. I'm just concerned with dumping all that water and the other issue being the dump location.

I'm not very well versed on geo, but what is your water quality like? Would an open loop, returning the water to the well be an option?
 

nc73

Member
Messages
36
Reaction score
3
Points
8
Location
Miamisburg, OH
You could use a heat exchanger at the bottom of the Geo loop. It would transfer heat much better than a plastic pipe loop. You could make one out of copper pipe easy enough. Either way, with the heat exchanger or an open loop setup, you will need to bleed enough water from the well to make it work. When you are using water from the well, it is bleeding plenty to transfer the heat/cool. When not using water you could hook up a bleed valve controlled by temperature coming from the loop pipe.

Yeah I was thinking bleed too but again I need a place to dump that bleed water. I wonder what the efficiency is like since I don't have bedrock. Clay isn't that great of a heat conductor.
 

VAWellDriller

Active Member
Messages
539
Reaction score
111
Points
43
Location
Richmond, VA
FWIW the return wells always seem prone to plugging. The hardness in the water will drop out in low pressure situations (like after a CSV), eventually causing the return well to lose acceptance rates and generally making a mess in the yard.

Again, function of water quality, also when we do it, we install a pitless unit and piping inside down below the water level in the return well....that way, you don't aerate the water and cause iron and such to precipitate. Another problem with return wells is that people try to be cheap, and don't install a good well, or develop the well properly. The return well is just as important, so we drill a mirror image, and develop it the same way. A lot of folks try to go shallower, and put it back in another aquifer to save money on the return well.....it never works. I know of lots of return wells that accept in the hundreds of gallons/minute; almost continuous for years, no problems.


Cost for a return well....I'd be about $6000-6500 for a 370' well, fully cased and screened, gravel packed, grouted and developed.
 

Craigpump

In the Trades
Messages
2,436
Reaction score
158
Points
63
Location
Connecticut
$6000-$6500 sounds more than fair to me, but I know the mentality of most homeowners. If they can't see it and show it off, they probably won't spend the money to have the job done right.
 

LLigetfa

DIYer, not in the trades
Messages
7,497
Reaction score
575
Points
113
Location
NW Ontario, Canada
Clay isn't that great of a heat conductor.

The water comes from a porous aquifer under the clay and gets its temp from Mother Earth. My neighbor's 300+ foot rock well produces surprisingly tepid water, not cold like my 65 foot mud well.
 

DonL

Jack of all trades Master of one
Messages
5,205
Reaction score
72
Points
48
Location
Houston, TX
If they can't see it and show it off, they probably won't spend the money to have the job done right.


lol

That is funny but true.

Plus the power savings of putting something in and maintaining it will not pay for itself in a lifetime.


Have Fun.
 
Last edited:

Craigpump

In the Trades
Messages
2,436
Reaction score
158
Points
63
Location
Connecticut
LL is right about clay being a poor conductor of heat, that's why they have to put so much sand in the grout when grouting in the loops.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks