measuring blower motor current

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BobL43

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I'm not sure what a variable speed frequency inverter drive is, but I'm pretty sure the fan is controlled by a simple timer, DC I think. Its either on or off.
Its getting harder to understand what you've actually got now. What led you to think its a DC motor? What does the motor nameplate actually say? How about a picture?
 

DonL

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Its getting harder to understand what you've actually got now. What led you to think its a DC motor? What does the motor nameplate actually say? How about a picture?


Here is the scoop,

Item Belt Drive Motor
Motor Type Split-Phase
HP 1/2
Nameplate RPM 1725
Voltage 115/208-230
Frame 48Z
Enclosure Open Dripproof
Mounting Cradle
Hz 60
Full Load Amps 7.6/3.7-3.8
Thermal Protection Auto
Insulation Class F
Service Factor 1.25
Bearings Ball
Max. Ambient Temp. 40 Degrees C
Rotation CW/CCW
Shaft Dia. 1/2"
Shaft Length 1-7/8"
Body Dia. 5-5/8"
Duty Continuous
RPM Range 1400-1800
Phase 1


Nice Motor.
 

BobL43

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Here is the scoop,

Item Belt Drive Motor
Motor Type Split-Phase
HP 1/2
Nameplate RPM 1725
Voltage 115/208-230
Frame 48Z
Enclosure Open Dripproof
Mounting Cradle
Hz 60
Full Load Amps 7.6/3.7-3.8
Thermal Protection Auto
Insulation Class F
Service Factor 1.25
Bearings Ball
Max. Ambient Temp. 40 Degrees C
Rotation CW/CCW
Shaft Dia. 1/2"
Shaft Length 1-7/8"
Body Dia. 5-5/8"
Duty Continuous
RPM Range 1400-1800
Phase 1


Nice Motor.

I did not look up the motor model like you did Don, but it sure don't look like a DC motor to me, lol. An AMPROBE ® clamp on reading needed for sure to see if its within specs. The comments in your post #14 say all the rest.
 

DonL

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I did not look up the motor model like you did Don, but it sure don't look like a DC motor to me, lol. An AMPROBE ® clamp on reading needed for sure to see if its within specs. The comments in your post #14 say all the rest.


I bought these and gave them out at work in the electronics lab.

They work very good for the money.

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/72-7218

But you know some people like to spend big bucks, thinking higher price is better, or safer.

The fact is most are made in China, and they don't drop test their meters.


And I do not drop test mine either.


Have a great day.
 

BobL43

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I bought these and gave them out at work in the electronics lab.

They work very good for the money.

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/72-7218

But you know some people like to spend big bucks, thinking higher price is better, or safer.

The fact is most are made in China, and they don't drop test their meters.


And I do not drop test mine either.


Have a great day.
Mine are actual Amprobe brand units. One is a RS-7 0 to 250 Amp 600 Volt max scale unit, and the other is a 5X527 1K Amp max 750 volt max scale unit, both are multi range. Got them since the ??'s. A long, long time, over 25 to 30 years. Not digital, though. No CAT ratings on either one, and I'd be afraid to measure anything over 115 volts with either one. I also have a Bell Current gun which is an AC or DC clamp on
 
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DonL

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Mine are actual Amprobe brand units. One is a 0 to 60 Amp unit and the other I think is a 200 Amp max unit, both are multi range. Got them since the ??'s. A long, long time, over 25 to 30 years. Not digital, though.


I have one of the old Amprobe ones.

It does AC and DC, but you have to plug the leads in the bottom for DC.

Nice analog meter.


We must be getting old if we own the good stuff.
 

BobL43

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I have one of the old Amprobe ones.

It does AC and DC, but you have to plug the leads in the bottom for DC.

Nice analog meter.


We must be getting old if we own the good stuff.
Yup, and the Ohms meter probe has the battery in it.
 

BobL43

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My favorite testing tool is still a Lightbulb.

Don't tell JW.
Uh Oh, here we go again. Remember, that is extremely dangerous Don. If you do use one, make sure you wear your plasma protection suit. This is not funny, don!
 

Leeelson

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Its getting harder to understand what you've actually got now. What led you to think its a DC motor? What does the motor nameplate actually say? How about a picture?
The timer is DC, not the motor. Sorry for the confusion.
 

Leeelson

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Here is the scoop,

Item Belt Drive Motor
Motor Type Split-Phase
HP 1/2
Nameplate RPM 1725
Voltage 115/208-230
Frame 48Z
Enclosure Open Dripproof
Mounting Cradle
Hz 60
Full Load Amps 7.6/3.7-3.8
Thermal Protection Auto
Insulation Class F
Service Factor 1.25
Bearings Ball
Max. Ambient Temp. 40 Degrees C
Rotation CW/CCW
Shaft Dia. 1/2"
Shaft Length 1-7/8"
Body Dia. 5-5/8"
Duty Continuous
RPM Range 1400-1800
Phase 1


Nice Motor.

Dumb question:
What does "Full Load Amps 7.6/3.7-3.8" mean?
Does it draw 7.6 on startup, then 3.7-3.8?
 

Leeelson

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I bought these and gave them out at work in the electronics lab.

They work very good for the money.

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/72-7218

But you know some people like to spend big bucks, thinking higher price is better, or safer.

The fact is most are made in China, and they don't drop test their meters.


And I do not drop test mine either.


Have a great day.

Another question for you pro's:

I'm trying to find a good, cheap clamp meter. How important is it to read DC current? I have a solar PV installation.
 

DonL

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Another question for you pro's:

I'm trying to find a good, cheap clamp meter. How important is it to read DC current? I have a solar PV installation.



Many VOMs will measure AC and DC Current up to 20 amps. And you hook it in series with the load.

AC clamp meters can measure without disconnecting the wiring.

"What does "Full Load Amps 7.6/3.7-3.8" mean?" --- That is the 120 and 240 Volt rating.

FLA is the Max power the motor will pull under full load when running.

Start current will be a bit higher, until the motor comes up to speed.


Have Fun.
 
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ActionDave

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Dumb question:
What does "Full Load Amps 7.6/3.7-3.8" mean?
Does it draw 7.6 on startup, then 3.7-3.8?
The motor is able to be connected to multiple voltages, 120, 240, 208. If the motor is connected to a higher voltage the amperage is lower; watts stay the same.
 
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