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Thread: measuring blower motor current

  1. #16
    DIY Senior Member BobL43's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DonL View Post
    My mistake. That is why it is not good to assume.

    It may be hard to tell if it is Using more power then it did. You have nothing to compare it to.

    As far as I can tell, that motor is rated for 7.6 Full Load Amps.

    As long as it is not above that then it is working within limits.

    There are a few variables that will affect the load on the motor.


    In my area sometime they would estimate my usage, because they did not want to pay a meter reader person.

    Now we have SmartAss meters, And my bill went down.


    Good Luck.
    No wonder my proctologist was able to tell me my IQ! He must have one of those smart ass meters.
    I am definitely not a pro plumber, but I am a pro crastinator

  2. #17
    Jack of all trades DonL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL43 View Post
    No wonder my proctologist was able to tell me my IQ! He must have one of those smart ass meters.

    lol


    That could be, But Your Doctor Bill went up.

    I hope he gave you the pictures.
    Theory only works perfect in a vacuum.

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  3. #18
    DIY Senior Member BobL43's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DonL View Post
    Good question Bob.

    I think the way they use them blowers there could be a small flex conduit, to the control box. Then there may be a thermostat if used as a attic fan.

    I remember the good old days of proper attic ventilation.

    I grew up with no air conditioning. When You went outside to play.

    People are spoiled now a days.


    Have a Great Friday the 13th.
    Don, When I was a little kid growing up in Brooklyn, NY, there was no AC except maybe in the "movies", where they had "refrigerated air". As a kid, we used to all sleep up on the roof of our apartment houses "Tar Beach". In those days you did not have to worry about somebody cutting your throat in your sleep and you "waking up dead". Things have changed. The projects that were built to replace all the 60 year old tenements we lived in after we moved out, are also now all boarded up and mostly demolished replaced by more, less densely populated housing. It's actually a lot better looking now than it looked with those old projects that were just absolutely terrible. If you "walk around" with this google map thingy, you can see the block behind this one where there are still 2 of the old project buildigs alll blocked up. I grew up on the block this link takes you to, looking at where my old 3 story building was until I moved out at 9 years old, 61 years ago.

    https://maps.google.com/?ie=UTF8&ll=...7.81,,0,-12.34
    I am definitely not a pro plumber, but I am a pro crastinator

  4. #19
    DIY Senior Member BobL43's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DonL View Post
    lol


    That could be, But Your Doctor Bill went up.

    I hope he gave you the pictures.
    no, but he gave me the business
    I am definitely not a pro plumber, but I am a pro crastinator

  5. #20
    DIY Junior Member leeelson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL43 View Post
    I see you mentioned that this is just a squirrel cage blower and only an air mover, but is it controlled by a variable speed frequency inverter drive? I ask only because if it is now running at a higher RPM than it used to, it will be drawing more current than it would at a lower RPM. You did mention a shielded cable, so that's why I'm asking.
    I'm not sure what a variable speed frequency inverter drive is, but I'm pretty sure the fan is controlled by a simple timer, DC I think. Its either on or off.

  6. #21
    DIY Senior Member BobL43's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by leeelson View Post
    I'm not sure what a variable speed frequency inverter drive is, but I'm pretty sure the fan is controlled by a simple timer, DC I think. Its either on or off.
    Its getting harder to understand what you've actually got now. What led you to think its a DC motor? What does the motor nameplate actually say? How about a picture?
    I am definitely not a pro plumber, but I am a pro crastinator

  7. #22
    Jack of all trades DonL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL43 View Post
    Its getting harder to understand what you've actually got now. What led you to think its a DC motor? What does the motor nameplate actually say? How about a picture?

    Here is the scoop,

    Item Belt Drive Motor
    Motor Type Split-Phase
    HP 1/2
    Nameplate RPM 1725
    Voltage 115/208-230
    Frame 48Z
    Enclosure Open Dripproof
    Mounting Cradle
    Hz 60
    Full Load Amps 7.6/3.7-3.8
    Thermal Protection Auto
    Insulation Class F
    Service Factor 1.25
    Bearings Ball
    Max. Ambient Temp. 40 Degrees C
    Rotation CW/CCW
    Shaft Dia. 1/2"
    Shaft Length 1-7/8"
    Body Dia. 5-5/8"
    Duty Continuous
    RPM Range 1400-1800
    Phase 1


    Nice Motor.
    Theory only works perfect in a vacuum.

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  8. #23
    DIY Senior Member BobL43's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DonL View Post
    Here is the scoop,

    Item Belt Drive Motor
    Motor Type Split-Phase
    HP 1/2
    Nameplate RPM 1725
    Voltage 115/208-230
    Frame 48Z
    Enclosure Open Dripproof
    Mounting Cradle
    Hz 60
    Full Load Amps 7.6/3.7-3.8
    Thermal Protection Auto
    Insulation Class F
    Service Factor 1.25
    Bearings Ball
    Max. Ambient Temp. 40 Degrees C
    Rotation CW/CCW
    Shaft Dia. 1/2"
    Shaft Length 1-7/8"
    Body Dia. 5-5/8"
    Duty Continuous
    RPM Range 1400-1800
    Phase 1


    Nice Motor.
    I did not look up the motor model like you did Don, but it sure don't look like a DC motor to me, lol. An AMPROBE clamp on reading needed for sure to see if its within specs. The comments in your post #14 say all the rest.
    I am definitely not a pro plumber, but I am a pro crastinator

  9. #24
    Jack of all trades DonL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL43 View Post
    I did not look up the motor model like you did Don, but it sure don't look like a DC motor to me, lol. An AMPROBE clamp on reading needed for sure to see if its within specs. The comments in your post #14 say all the rest.

    I bought these and gave them out at work in the electronics lab.

    They work very good for the money.

    http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/72-7218

    But you know some people like to spend big bucks, thinking higher price is better, or safer.

    The fact is most are made in China, and they don't drop test their meters.


    And I do not drop test mine either.


    Have a great day.
    Theory only works perfect in a vacuum.

    Cyber Security Protection for Windows C:\ > WWW.WinForce.Net

  10. #25
    DIY Senior Member BobL43's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DonL View Post
    I bought these and gave them out at work in the electronics lab.

    They work very good for the money.

    http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/72-7218

    But you know some people like to spend big bucks, thinking higher price is better, or safer.

    The fact is most are made in China, and they don't drop test their meters.


    And I do not drop test mine either.


    Have a great day.
    Mine are actual Amprobe brand units. One is a RS-7 0 to 250 Amp 600 Volt max scale unit, and the other is a 5X527 1K Amp max 750 volt max scale unit, both are multi range. Got them since the ??'s. A long, long time, over 25 to 30 years. Not digital, though. No CAT ratings on either one, and I'd be afraid to measure anything over 115 volts with either one. I also have a Bell Current gun which is an AC or DC clamp on
    Last edited by BobL43; 09-15-2013 at 10:26 AM.
    I am definitely not a pro plumber, but I am a pro crastinator

  11. #26
    Jack of all trades DonL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL43 View Post
    Mine are actual Amprobe brand units. One is a 0 to 60 Amp unit and the other I think is a 200 Amp max unit, both are multi range. Got them since the ??'s. A long, long time, over 25 to 30 years. Not digital, though.

    I have one of the old Amprobe ones.

    It does AC and DC, but you have to plug the leads in the bottom for DC.

    Nice analog meter.


    We must be getting old if we own the good stuff.
    Theory only works perfect in a vacuum.

    Cyber Security Protection for Windows C:\ > WWW.WinForce.Net

  12. #27
    DIY Senior Member BobL43's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DonL View Post
    I have one of the old Amprobe ones.

    It does AC and DC, but you have to plug the leads in the bottom for DC.

    Nice analog meter.


    We must be getting old if we own the good stuff.
    Yup, and the Ohms meter probe has the battery in it.
    I am definitely not a pro plumber, but I am a pro crastinator

  13. #28
    Jack of all trades DonL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL43 View Post
    Yup, and the Ohms meter probe has the battery in it.

    My favorite testing tool is still a Lightbulb.

    Don't tell JW.
    Last edited by DonL; 09-15-2013 at 12:57 PM.
    Theory only works perfect in a vacuum.

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  14. #29
    DIY Senior Member BobL43's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DonL View Post
    My favorite testing tool is still a Lightbulb.

    Don't tell JW.
    Uh Oh, here we go again. Remember, that is extremely dangerous Don. If you do use one, make sure you wear your plasma protection suit. This is not funny, don!
    I am definitely not a pro plumber, but I am a pro crastinator

  15. #30
    DIY Junior Member leeelson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL43 View Post
    Its getting harder to understand what you've actually got now. What led you to think its a DC motor? What does the motor nameplate actually say? How about a picture?
    The timer is DC, not the motor. Sorry for the confusion.

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