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Thread: Repairing/replacing leaky copper DWV pipe

  1. #1

    Default Repairing/replacing leaky copper DWV pipe Final repairs made

    Howdy folks, while doing my routine plumbing check I found a leak at the area where everything drains out of the home. The home was built in '68 and is unfortunately all copper. While it has made small repairs easy, this one has me scratching my head. My thinking is to replace this area with PVC. I don't know whether to tackle it on my own or call a good plumber. Here is a pic of the area. At this point, the leak is small at maybe 4-5oz a day, but she could go at any time! Already a quick patch job in another spot so that is why I am thinking of gutting and replacing.

    Any ideas?
    Thanks
    Steve

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    Last edited by Retiredguns; 09-18-2013 at 03:28 PM.

  2. #2
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    "Joints" do not start leaking, unless the pipe inside is eroded away, so a "repair" is not likely. The good news is that it will NOT "give at any time". It will just get worse a little bit at a time.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

  3. #3
    In the Trades Tom Sawyer's Avatar
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    The bad news is that fixing it properly is gonna cost a bunch of money.

    So, next question. Is that side inlet elbow, installed in that position code or not ?
    [B]No, plumbing ain't rocket science. Unlike rocket science, plumbing requires a license[B]

  4. #4

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    Thanks for the opinions. Have no clue if the elbow is code? I have a plumber coming next week as he is swamped so I may do another patch job until then.

    When you say "bunch of money", what ballpark you reckon?

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    In the Trades Tom Sawyer's Avatar
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    A major league one.
    [B]No, plumbing ain't rocket science. Unlike rocket science, plumbing requires a license[B]

  6. #6
    DIY Senior Member craigpump's Avatar
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    Is it me, or does that clean out looked braized?

  7. #7
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    It's all open and easy to get at. I don't see that as a big problem. They make mission copper to plastic couplings if the plumber wants to go that route, and if so, he can massage the layout a bit.

  8. #8

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    Had an independent plumber stop by for a look. On the plus side he said there was enough copper and space for a "not too bad" of a job and on the negative side he said it would still likely be in the $600-$700 neighborhood. Said he needed to take it back all the way to the cast iron outlet which requires cutting & drilling out the lead seal. He would also use a different configuration for the new plumbing. My Wife was expecting more like $1200 so maybe this isn't bad?

    I was going to cut & replace myself, but that last piece of vertical copper before the cast iron is paper thin and can be pushed in with a tiny bit of effort. I think I'll pay the pro this time..

  9. #9
    In the Trades Gary Swart's Avatar
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    It's a wise DIY who know when his level of ability has been topped!

  10. #10

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    Got a 2nd quote today and the plumber wants to do the same style repair, but at 3 hours and $300. Both come recommended so I'm not sure why I'd want to pay $600+ for the first plumber.

  11. #11

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    Had the plumber out today. I guess all is well as I am no expert. Here is the before & after.

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  12. #12
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    He did a nice job with the glue.
    I've never used a 90 el with side outlet like that. So it looks interesting.
    I'm used to using wyes and santees.
    I like the shielded couplings on it. I ran across an old picture that a homeowner had posted that showed the old all rubber coupling, and then the fix afterwards with the shielded couplings like you have.

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