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Thread: 50 amp stove line question

  1. #1
    DIY Senior Member JerryR's Avatar
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    Default 50 amp stove line question

    I'm in the middle of a kitchen remodel. Where the old kitchen had a cooktop we're installing a freestanding 30 " electric stove. We want to Use the existing wiring from the cooktop (50 amp - 4 wire ) to power the stove. The box is mounted about 24" off the floor where it will be behind the stove. The stove calls for electrical box mounted on wall between the floor and 8" off the floor. The wiring comes from the ceiling so I can't move the box down and running a new line back to the breaker box seems like too much work.

    Can I tap the wires in the current box and install a new box at the floor? If so this would require joining 4each pairs #8 stranded wires. What size wire nuts for those? I was thinking maybe install a disconnect box where the current box is as this would make connecting these wire sizes easier.

    Any suggestions.

    JR

    JR

  2. #2
    Jack of all trades DonL's Avatar
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    Install the properly rated socket and use a properly rated Pigtail on your appliance.


    Have Fun.
    Theory only works perfect in a vacuum.

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  3. #3
    DIY Senior Member JerryR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DonL View Post
    Install the properly rated socket and use a properly rated Pigtail on your appliance.


    Have Fun.
    That s my intention, to install a recessesed and properly rated NEMA 14-50 recepticle in a box on the wall near the floor. Then uses the proper pigtail from the stove.

    My question is how do I tap into the existing wiring box from the now unused cooktop in the picture, to extend the line down to the floor and mount the proper box/receptical there. Original box is fed with #6 wire, 3 wire plus ground Romex and I'll have to be recessed mounted since stove goes flush to the wall.

    Are there approved wire nuts big enough and if so where do I find them. If not wire nuts, what other connections are legal for connecting a pair of #6 stranded wires.

    JR
    JR

  4. #4
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    I would not use wire nuts for that size wires. I would use crimps or lugs to do it. Regardless of what the specifications say, is there room for the plug behind the range at the point where the J-box is now, if the box were recessed flush with the wall?
    Last edited by hj; 09-09-2013 at 07:41 AM.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

  5. #5
    Jack of all trades DonL's Avatar
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    I must be missing something.

    Why would you want to add another connection ? That connection can not share.

    Just get the proper length Pigtail.


    Watt am I missing ?
    Theory only works perfect in a vacuum.

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  6. #6
    Electrical Contractor/Instructor jwelectric's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JerryR View Post
    I'm in the middle of a kitchen remodel. Where the old kitchen had a cooktop we're installing a freestanding 30 " electric stove. We want to Use the existing wiring from the cooktop (50 amp - 4 wire ) to power the stove. The box is mounted about 24" off the floor where it will be behind the stove. The stove calls for electrical box mounted on wall between the floor and 8" off the floor. The wiring comes from the ceiling so I can't move the box down and running a new line back to the breaker box seems like too much work.

    Can I tap the wires in the current box and install a new box at the floor? If so this would require joining 4each pairs #8 stranded wires. What size wire nuts for those? I was thinking maybe install a disconnect box where the current box is as this would make connecting these wire sizes easier.

    Any suggestions.

    JR

    Try these http://www.nsiindustries.com/product...l/polaris.aspx

  7. #7
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Stoves often have a recess for the connections and the top area may end up flush with the wall, so if your connection was there, you couldn't push the stove back as far. So, there could be a very good reason they want the electrical connection down lower.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  8. #8
    DIY Senior Member Murphy625's Avatar
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    This doesn't make sense.. If you have room to install a disconnect, why not just use the existing box where its at? Is it in the way of the stove or something?

    Do not use wire nuts on 50 amp wire.. its too much. Split bolts or some other compression type connection is needed. You could use crimp-on wire terminals and screws..

  9. #9
    Electrical Contractor/Instructor jwelectric's Avatar
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    this is what the link is to
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  10. #10
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    quote; Watt am I missing ?

    You are "missing" that the pigtail's plug is OUTSIDE the wall and may prevent the range from sliding against the wall unless the receptacle is in a location where there is a recess or an "open" area..
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

  11. #11
    Electrical Contractor/Instructor jwelectric's Avatar
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    (B) Connection at the Rear Base of a Range. For cord-and-plug-connected household electric ranges, an attachment plug and receptacle connection at the rear base of a range, if it is accessible from the front by removal of a drawer, shall be considered as meeting the intent of 422.33(A).

  12. #12
    Jack of all trades DonL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hj View Post
    quote; Watt am I missing ?

    You are "missing" that the pigtail's plug is OUTSIDE the wall and may prevent the range from sliding against the wall unless the receptacle is in a location where there is a recess or an "open" area..

    Thanks hj.


    I figured it out, and must have had my Head up my Ass.


    No wonder I could not see the problem.
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  13. #13
    DIY Senior Member Homeownerinburb's Avatar
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    There are simple butt splices technically the same as what JW references, except not insulated, very readily available. Assuming that you can't find JW's connectors close by, go for the common ones, they work fine. They come rated to fit different gauges of wire. Buy four of the correct size and a roll of good quality insulating tape. Get a very tight torque on the connectors.

    Replace that 1 1/2" box with a 2 1/8" box, which you will recess flush into the wall and use a blanking plate to close.

    Buy the short length of NM that you need at Home Despot or some other retailer that will sell by the foot.

    Use a 2 1/8" deep box for the receptacle box as well.

    Bob's your uncle.

  14. #14
    DIY Senior Member JerryR's Avatar
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    I decided to have an electrician extend the line. It's simple and inexpensive.

    I've already wired for over cabinet and under cabinet lights etc. i have no problem with the 15 amp and 20 amp stuff but I don't like the high current stuff that Home Depot sells.

    As a side note, after the old kitchen was ripped out we had a gas smell. The only gas into the house is LP to a gas fireplace so I shut it off at the underground tank.

    We still had occasional gas smell. I had all drains capped. I called a plumber. He opened the drywall behind where the old kitchen sink was and buried behind the drywall was a clean out with a VERY LOOSE screw cap. He extended the clean out so it can be accessed under the sink once the new cabinet is installed, and smell is gone.

    Another surprise was when the tile backsplash was removed I found a j-box without a cover plate and with live wires buried behind the tile. I used that line to install a switch to power the cabinet lights.

    Also all the breakers in the panel were not labeled correctly. I spent a few hours identifying and properly labeling the breakers. The previous owner left the original blue prints which included original electrical layout. There was obvious additions over the years which required new breakers.
    JR

  15. #15
    DIY Senior Member JerryR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JerryR View Post
    I decided to have an electrician extend the line. It's simple and inexpensive.
    UPDATE:

    Electrician came out today. Original line had a 50 amp breaker with a 65 foot run of # 8 standard Romex.

    I had the #8 removed and had #6 installed (70 feet of wire) from breaker to stove receptical. . It took 2 guys 2 1/2 hours to fish and run it through the hot attic crawl space.

    They also removed another unused run of #8 w/50 amp breaker that was feeding the old double oven and an unused 120/20a dedicated line for an old microwave.

    JR
    JR

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