Normally you have two ends of a pipe nipple to work with. If that is the case, remove the nipple, wrap both ends with tape and try it again.
i have a right angle tapered thread brass fitting that must be at 12 oclock
hand tight it stops at 1 o clock and wrenching only goes a hair more so it has to be backed out to 12 o clock
this makes for a leak and also it rubs against another part
any ideas? this must be a common problem with threaded fittings that need to be in a precise position
i cant see try to tighten from 1 o clock all the way around to 12 o clock almost 1 full turn, i think it will go to 2 or 3 o clock max
thanks for your help
no in this case, it is a brass rt angle fitting, tapered male that threads into a tapped female hole. the other end must face straight up and is a flare nut female
the male thread just happens to snug at 1 oclock , the worst poss place, too loose to back off and too tight to make another revolution
I would try another fitting with the hopes that the threads were started in a different position. Or like LL said, run a tap into the female and deepen the threads a bit.
Unless the actual threads are lousy or the part is defective, you can almost always make at least another turn from hand tight - often more.
Important note - I'm not a pro
Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014
If you cannot turn it the rest of the way, the fitting may be "bottoming out" inside the female thread, in which case you probably have defective thread on one of the two pieces.
Licensed residential and commercial plumber
I would be applying a good thread sealant like Megaloc on top of the teflon tape.
Last edited by Wet_Boots; 09-09-2013 at 08:50 AM. Reason: added swell image of critically aligned threaded connections
thanks to everyone for your help,
an update - i ran the rt angle in finger tight, and it doesn't leak, i'm keeping an eye on it but this is a little scary. i'll start over when i have more time
i was thinking, maybe the parts are designed so that they cinch up at a pre determined position, if you tap x.xxx inches deep and the rt angle thread cut is standardized, it will lock up where you want? so a new rt angle may work, NPTF (fuel) threads deform to create a seal so maybe they need to be replaced and not reused
try other parts - most feasible, i'm planning to buy 10 rt angles and try em,
fuel thread sealant - supposedly not necessary for NPTF but they sell it so i'll try some if i can't get a good seal (aviation form a gasket no 3)
tapping deeper - difficult in that it take a little skill and have to make sure you have NPTF tap, it would be easier to run a die of the male and it won't leave shavings inside the female port
more tape - i was told many times that tape is not good for fuel lines, can break loose and clog downstream, in some cases it's banned, i'll use sealant if needed
one more turn - it is really tight at 1 oclock, i think i have spare female parts that i can try this on but not comfortable trying on new ($150), i sense that i am putting about 20-30 lbs on the fitting, i've done quite a few fuel fittings and w NPTF you don;t need to overload, it snugs right away. NPT (pipe thread) will go that extra turn because there's a gap bet the threads, hence the need for dope or teflon to seal,
thanks for the help !!!!!!
thanks for checking in, i think diff is the NPT vs NPTF as i noted above. the NPTF (fuel) is a dry seal and seals by deforming the threads so they are tight. the NPT (pipe thread) seals with teflon or liquid sealant so it will turn the full turn. if you've ever put a fuel line of fitting in, if there is no friction or hose binding the fitting, they will not go go very far past hand tight . i'll reply when i have more updates, thx all