Moving Laundry to garage...what to do? what to remember?

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bulldogcreative

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Hi - first of all a thanks in advance for anyone's help here.

The Situation -

We currently have our laundry room adjacent to the garage. I'd like to turn this laundry room into a butler's pantry by moving the Washer/Dryer to the garage along with the laundry sink. Once that is done, a new sink, counter and 2nd dishwasher will be installed in the old laundry room. The laundry room measures 10 feet from door to door.

plumbing.jpg

What needs to be done

So, as you can see from the diagram, i would like to move the W/D and sink out to sit on the adjacent wall. I also need to extend the waste drain and hot/cold to the garage wall to feed both the sink and the w/d (electrical needs to be move too, but i think that's the least of my worries. :)) Additionally, because i intend to retain a sink in the laundry room for the butler's pantry, i need to keep the existing trap and h/c where it already is.

Obviously I'd like to do this right and to code. What do i need to make sure of when moving/extending the drain and the water? What's the best way to tap in to the existing pipes?

1) what are some of the heights that i have to keep in mind when installing the new washer/dryer - h/c feeds and waste drain?
2) Can i replicate pretty much what i have now under the sink (p-trap with a tall waste pipe to which the washer drain hose connects over and in to? or do i need to be aware of something else?
3) Do i need to worry about an additional vent?

I know i am missing some info here, please let me know and I will provide. As I said - thanks in advance for the help!
 

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Dj2

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1. The hot and cold don't have height requirement. The waste stand pipe should be around 42" tall. The drain line must maintain a 1/4" drop per 1 ft.
2. Yes you can build it the same way it's now.
3. A vent is needed from the sink up through the roof. A dryer vent is required.

Question: is the dryer gas or electric?
 

Terry

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A rough estimate would be to put the top of the washer box at 48" from the floor. Plus or minus.
You may want to see if the washer you buy has other ideas.

Each trap will need to be vented, and then revented at 6" above flood level.
 

bulldogcreative

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1. The hot and cold don't have height requirement. The waste stand pipe should be around 42" tall. The drain line must maintain a 1/4" drop per 1 ft.
2. Yes you can build it the same way it's now.
3. A vent is needed from the sink up through the roof. A dryer vent is required.

Question: is the dryer gas or electric?


Hi Dj2 -

The dryer is electric - and yes, i have considered a new dryer vent through the roof and since it's a rancher will be vented through the soffit as it is now.

So you are saying that the new sink in the garage will need a vent too? I am assuming I can tie this in to an existing vent in the roof. Or does it have to be a new install?
 

bulldogcreative

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A rough estimate would be to put the top of the washer box at 48" from the floor. Plus or minus.
You may want to see if the washer you buy has other ideas.

Each trap will need to be vented, and then revented at 6" above flood level.

Hi Terry - thanks for the reply.

I am assuming if i install a new trap for the sink i intend to put in the garage i will need to vent it. But i also assume i can use this same trap for the waste for the washer.

Also, I do not understand what "reventing" is - would it be like this?

washer_rough_b.jpg

if yes, would this set up work but instead of draining down through the floor - it would loop back to the original drain the the "new" butler's pantry?

thank you.
 
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hj

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Until you know HOW the existing laundry is piped, there is no way to tell you HOW to make the new connections to it, but a plumber could do it properly.
 

WorthFlorida

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Placing the laundry in the garage is pretty much standard in the southern US where it hardly gets near freezing temperatures. I checked http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Climate_of_Vancouver and in your neck of the woods it is fairly temperate but it can still freeze. It is not so much about the water lines which can be insulated and place on the warm side of the insulation, but the water that would sit in the pump of the washing machine. I assume you have a possible freeze covered or is it that warm?
 

bulldogcreative

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Placing the laundry in the garage is pretty much standard in the southern US where it hardly gets near freezing temperatures. I checked http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Climate_of_Vancouver and in your neck of the woods it is fairly temperate but it can still freeze. It is not so much about the water lines which can be insulated and place on the warm side of the insulation, but the water that would sit in the pump of the washing machine. I assume you have a possible freeze covered or is it that warm?

I have thought of this and you would be correct - this is pretty temperate for climate. I have never experienced a frost that has caused problems IN the garage - certainly for exposed/exterior wall pipes, but not for the inside of my garage. It is also somewhat heated.
 

bulldogcreative

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I as ASSUMING that the existing sink is trapped and vented as a single sink. I can CONFIRM this with a picture. I am fairly certain, though, that is can be tapped in to.
 

medcaredesign

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Regarding freezing - we are in Southeast Pennsylvania and first had a garage laundry in California and loved it. When we blew out our kitchen here in SE-PA into the laundry rom, we relocated the W/D to the garage and have not regretted it. It is safe from freezing to at least 12 degrees. When it approaches single digits, we turn on a small Pelonis ceramic heater in the space under the laundry tub. We had freezing in the pipes with no damage once in 10 years and we probably didn't turn the heater on when we should have done so. So, if anyone north of the Mason Dixon line is interested, this is workable. I will add, though, that we keep the garage doors closed. That would make a difference if yo have kids that leave them open! Also, our doors are not insulated and the garage faces north.
 
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