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Thread: Washing Machine drain-vent delima

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member carltie's Avatar
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    Default Washing Machine drain-vent delima

    Hello,

    Re-positioning my washing machine . The picture below indicates the new high efficiency washing machine setup. I am using 2" pipe for the drain but I am not sure how to connect it to the main drain as the connection are very closely coupled with bends. I am also wondering if I need to have a vent and if so how to make the connection. Would AAV work for washing machine ? I live in Massachusetts so not sure if the code allows.

    Name:  CheckSetting.jpg
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    Any help would be appreciated.
    Thanks!

  2. #2
    In the Trades Gary Swart's Avatar
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    Your real problem is that Massachusetts do not allow DIY plumbing. Briefly on your questions: No AAV for washers, washer must drain into an open standpipe that is trapped and vented. Your diagram indicates an unvented trap with a standpipe that is too short. It appears you have a vent available, but I'm pretty sure the connection the the main drain will have to be lower. Again, DIY is illegal in MA, you need to hire a plumber.

  3. #3
    Test, Don't Guess! cacher_chick's Avatar
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    It looks like you have plenty of hack work there already if the washer and kitchen sink are piped with 1-1/2" pipe. You cannot legally plumb there, and you have some re-work to be done. Assuming the fixture vents are installed correctly, 2" sink and washer drains should tie directly into the 3" line.

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    DIY Junior Member carltie's Avatar
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    You can say that again - hack work indeed! Just bought the house and realized my delima. Previous owner cut a lot of corners. Not sure what you mean "cannot legally plumb there" Is there no way this job can be done? What about this setup below. Is the vent legal?

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    Last edited by carltie; 08-28-2013 at 11:44 AM.

  5. #5
    Test, Don't Guess! cacher_chick's Avatar
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    What Gary was eluding to was that where you live, it is against state law to perform plumbing without a license.

    The vent must be vertical, and the vent take-off must be located at or prior to the point which the drain line turns downward.
    Last edited by cacher_chick; 08-28-2013 at 11:57 AM.

  6. #6
    DIY Junior Member carltie's Avatar
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    Fair enough. I agree a licensed plumber would has to complete the job . Any thoughts on how much this re-work would cost me?

  7. #7
    In the Trades Gary Swart's Avatar
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    No way anyone will even venture a guess on the cost. Several reasons, but a couple of reasons include the extent of the work than needs to be done has to be evaluated on site and local plumber rates vary widely from place to place. Your best bet is to get at least 3 estimates from local contractors. Talk to locals about their experiences. Keep in mind that some estimates may be very high because they really don't want the job. Also be leery of an estimate that is super low. Finally, don't waste you time trying to figure out how the job should be done. Let the pros determine that.

  8. #8
    In the Trades Tom Sawyer's Avatar
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    If I'm seeing the mess right it appears that both fixtures drain into a 4" x 1-1/2" sanitary tee that was cut into the cast stack. It needs to come out and be replaced with a 4x2 and both drains then need to enter the new line separately. It looks to me like around 500 bucks or so.
    [B]No, plumbing ain't rocket science. Unlike rocket science, plumbing requires a license[B]

  9. #9
    DIY Junior Member carltie's Avatar
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    Great advise guys! Thanks a lot. Looks like the stack would have to be cut open and rectified after all. Seems like a major plumbing job.

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