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Thread: Water Heater only Luke Warm

  1. #16
    DIY Junior Member Konowl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DonL View Post
    That is a good thing.

    It sounds like your elements may be hooked in series if you have 120 on them. Or maybe it is a 120V unit. That is why I asked for a model #. But why they had 240 on them don't make sense. Unless you were working in your breaker panel wiring your new water pump. If the new thermostat is wired wrong, that could cause 120, but you would need to be swapping wires. Also some units may do that for efficiency. Model maters.

    I am clueless at this point. But still suspect the top element if no wiring was changed. Because of the fact that it may have been on with no water to cool it.

    Just make sure your Pop Off Valve is good and has a place for the water to go.

    Sometimes it is best to download the manual for what you are working on, Before you start working on it. Then You can understand how it works, and be Safe working on it.

    Water Heaters are really fairly simple if you know how they work.

    For safety reasons if you do not know how they work then you should not work on it.

    Read your Meter manual also, so you know what you are reading and measuring.

    If I am wrong then please tell me, in a PM if needed.


    Terry's site has good info, But He and Myself like for everyone to be safe when working on a DIY project.


    Good Luck.
    I'm really paranoid that I wired something wrong now. The model is a Rudd ET-40.

  2. #17
    Jack of all trades DonL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Konowl View Post
    I'm really paranoid that I wired something wrong now. The model is a Rudd ET-40.

    I would be too. Was you doing some wiring also ?


    I found no info on the make and model that you listed. Could it be a Ruud ?

    Do you have the manual ?

    Maybe a Pro will stop by, that knows your make and model.


    Good Luck.
    Last edited by DonL; 08-29-2013 at 09:59 AM.
    Theory only works perfect in a vacuum.

    Cyber Security Protection for Windows C:\ > WWW.WinForce.Net

  3. #18
    DIY Junior Member Konowl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DonL View Post
    I would be too. Was you doing some wiring also ?


    I found no info on the make and model that you listed. Could it be a Ruud ?

    Do you have the manual ?

    Maybe a Pro will stop by, that knows your make and model.


    Good Luck.
    It's a Ruud, sorry. I attached pictures. 8 terminal is old one, 7 terminal is new one.
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  4. #19
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    FWIW, ALWAYS go clockwise around a screw with a wire, and it's never a good idea to try to put two solid wires underneath one screw terminal. I don't know enough about electric WH to tell if it's wired properly.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  5. #20
    Jack of all trades DonL's Avatar
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    You need to look at the manual, to see how to wire it properly. DO YOU HAVE A MANUAL ?, guess I did not ask loud enough.

    I have seen enough to tell that you need some help. I would like to help, but some things are not DIY.

    That is why you came to the Forum right ? Sometimes a pro is needed. Not just someone that has a voltmeter. Make sure they have a Amp Probe also. lol



    Be careful playing with electricity.
    Theory only works perfect in a vacuum.

    Cyber Security Protection for Windows C:\ > WWW.WinForce.Net

  6. #21
    DIY Junior Member Konowl's Avatar
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    Yup have a manual

  7. #22
    DIY Junior Member Konowl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Konowl View Post
    Yup have a manual
    Good lord, lost my entire post.

    Did a bunch of testing. When I turned everything off, I'm showing an OHM reading from a terminal to the metal casing of the element on the top element only. I think this is why I'm getting the 120v across the element when the thermostat is off.

    new element time?
    Last edited by Terry; 08-30-2013 at 01:57 PM.

  8. #23
    Jack of all trades DonL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Konowl View Post
    Good lord, lost my entire post. Fuck.

    Did a bunch of testing. When I turned everything off, I'm showing an OHM reading from a terminal to the metal casing of the element on the top element only. I think this is why I'm getting the 120v across the element when the thermostat is off.

    new element time?

    Yes, sounds like time.

    I posted this today and it got lost.

    Thought it might help you.


    Good Luck.


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    Theory only works perfect in a vacuum.

    Cyber Security Protection for Windows C:\ > WWW.WinForce.Net

  9. #24
    DIY Junior Member Konowl's Avatar
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    yah I saw that thanks. I think it's the element. I guess the element AND the thermostat got fried.

    Quote Originally Posted by DonL View Post
    Yes, sounds like time.

    I posted this today and it got lost.

    Thought it might help you.


    Good Luck.


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  10. #25
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    Good lord, lost my entire post.
    The support replaced one of the RAID drives last night.
    When I checked today, we had lost two weeks worth of posts.
    They looked at the drive they pulled and found the last two weeks, but we did miss the early part of today. Sorry about that.
    Terry

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