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Thread: Triangle Tube Solo 100 (TT-100) Complete - Photo - Comments?

  1. #1
    DIY Member philtrap's Avatar
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    Red face Triangle Tube Solo 100 (TT-100) Complete - Photo - Comments?

    Folks,

    I finished my TT-110 boiler installation with a buffer tank today. Buffer tank installed due to oversized boiler (my fault). See photo below. It's a tight spot so some short cuts were required. The DHW will come once the gas wot water heater goes, or next year, which ever comes first.

    Comments are welcome. Any fixes you think may be needed before winter would be nice too. The flue above the unit is temporary until the DHW is installed and then chimney will be abandoned.

    Only thing left to do is set the controls, but it works OK with the factor presets. I'm probably going to have to raise the output temperature for the baseboards.

    Thanks,




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  2. #2
    DIY Member philtrap's Avatar
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    Here is another pic. The wires have been tied up since the photo. I know the back flow preventer is not upright but I had an issue with a leak and that's where it ended up...



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  3. #3
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Is that your condensate drain just pointing down towards the floor? If so, you'll need to deal with that. During the heating season, you could have gallons per day coming out of that...you don't want that just splashing on the floor, it will get messy. Plus, it's slightly acidic and won't do anything in the area any favors, including eating the lime out of the concrete.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  4. #4
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    The check valve is completely useless the way you have it installed. It looks like you only have one "servicing valve" installed. You should have one on both sides of the heater.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

  5. #5
    DIY Member philtrap's Avatar
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    jadnashua - There is a drain right under it. It's just outside the photo. You can see a little of the black curve of the grate. Per the instructions, the boiler should produce 2 liters of water per day and the dry well I installed should be able to handle that. If not, I'll need to install a pump. Time will tell. I'm going to install PVC in place of that condensing drain pipe. The pipe that's installed came with the the TT and it's a cheap flexible plastic pipe and it just misses the drain...

    Thanks for your input.

    Quote Originally Posted by jadnashua View Post
    Is that your condensate drain just pointing down towards the floor? If so, you'll need to deal with that. During the heating season, you could have gallons per day coming out of that...you don't want that just splashing on the floor, it will get messy. Plus, it's slightly acidic and won't do anything in the area any favors, including eating the lime out of the concrete.
    Last edited by philtrap; 08-24-2013 at 04:12 PM.

  6. #6
    DIY Member philtrap's Avatar
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    Thanks HJ. I figured the check valve wouldn't work, but I'm not sure it's really necessary since I've seen many installations without them. I had a real hard time with a leak and that's how it ended up. I pretty much gave up because I didn't think it would matter. I did think it would work though...

    As for the service valve. Are you referring to the valve with the bleeder? Not sure what you mean...

    Thanks



    Quote Originally Posted by hj View Post
    The check valve is completely useless the way you have it installed. It looks like you only have one "servicing valve" installed. You should have one on both sides of the heater.

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