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Thread: Drop Pipe Choice With New Pump

  1. #1
    DIY Senior Member TJanak's Avatar
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    Default Drop Pipe Choice With New Pump

    I'm out of town (of course) and my wife calls saying there is no water. I'll get dad to go over and test and see what we can find out, but I don't have a good feeling.

    Assuming I need a new pump, what do you recommend for drop pipe? 4" pvc casing, 80-120' deep (probably 80'), 1/2 HP pump currently on galvanized pipe. Some sulfur and iron in water. I've seen a couple new wells recently put in with pvc drop pipe and this seems a good way to go. What type of pipe and couplings are best? Thread sealant? How tight? I appreciated any and all advice!

    Also, on the CSV, would I put one in the well or above ground near my pressure tank?

    Thanks,
    Travis

    Wow, haven't been on here in a while and my avatar is a cat!
    Travis

    When I need a precise measurement of something I often use the highly technical method of eyeballing it.

  2. #2
    DIY Senior Member craigpump's Avatar
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    Sch 80 pvc drop pipe with sch 120 PVC couplings. We use Rector seal and tighten the pipe & couplings hand tight, but some guys run them up a little with channel lock pliers.

    And NO after thousands of installations over 25 years, we have never seen a string of pipe unscrew.

  3. #3
    In the Trades Tom Sawyer's Avatar
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    1" PE. With brass or stainless adapters
    [B]No, plumbing ain't rocket science. Unlike rocket science, plumbing requires a license[B]

  4. #4
    Porky Cutter,MGWC Porky's Avatar
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    I like polyethylene pipe with brass or stainless steel adapters. We ran pumps as deep as 400 feet on a good grade of 1" polyethylene pipe in Northern Pennsylvania and it worked fine. PVC is OK but always an effort to pull. I'd use an adjustable (not plastic) CSV valve near the tank.
    Porky Cutter, MGWC
    (Master Ground Water Consultant)

  5. #5
    DIY Senior Member craigpump's Avatar
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    160 lb poly will support the weight of the pump ok, but it is super flexible and the wire will get chafed up big time unless there are plenty of torque arresters installed. Another problem is that when you have to pull poly, it lays on the ground and can pickup all kinds of bacteria and transfer the bacteria to the well.

  6. #6
    In the Trades Tom Sawyer's Avatar
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    We never use anything around here other than poly unless the well is over 500' or so.
    [B]No, plumbing ain't rocket science. Unlike rocket science, plumbing requires a license[B]

  7. #7
    DIY Senior Member TJanak's Avatar
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    Thanks for the replies.

    Ended up being bad capacitor, so that was easy.

    For future reference though, I've pulled pumps on poly before but they had a rope/cable holding the weight. I know most here prefer to not use a rope and that is fine, but how do you anchor the poly at the well seal to hold the weight?

    Also, we've just taped the wire to the poly and never had a problem with it rubbing through with no torque arrestors, etc. Is this just luck or the way it should be done?
    Travis

    When I need a precise measurement of something I often use the highly technical method of eyeballing it.

  8. #8
    In the Trades Tom Sawyer's Avatar
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    In most areas code says you need a rope or a wire. In truth though, it's not like anybody is ever going to check that. Personally having used rope over the years I can honestly say that it's a waste of time and money. Theres no way in hell you are going to pull a pump 300 plus feed with quarter inch rope.
    [B]No, plumbing ain't rocket science. Unlike rocket science, plumbing requires a license[B]

  9. #9
    In the Trades Texas Wellman's Avatar
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    http://www.simmonsmfg.com/index.php/...pipe-eye-bolt/

    Seen em, never used em.
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  10. #10
    DIY Senior Member craigpump's Avatar
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    After 10-15 years in a damp environment that eye bolt will be at the bottom of the hole along with the rope.

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