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Thread: Leaking New Toto Drale II C454CEFG

  1. #1
    DIY Senior Member DanMcD's Avatar
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    Default Leaking New Toto Drale II C454CEFG

    I had my bathroom remodeled with a new Toto Drake II toilet. The installer had to keep adjusting the center flush valve nut to get the tank to sit tight and not rock. It seems to be a very stiff rubber gasket that seems to flatten out some over time. He finally got the tank to not rock, but it sits on the center and right porcelain feet, but not quite touches the porcelain foot on the left side.
    In any case, the tank still leaks and it seems to be coming from the right side tank bolt. He took off the tank and re-seated the bolts but it still leaks at that right side bolt.
    Why is this so hard to get it right? Could the Toilet be defective?
    Advise?

  2. #2
    DIY kid who loves toilets Starwarsith88's Avatar
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    That's strange, it could be that the tank is screwed up possibly, make sure the toilet is completely leveled. If the toilet is un level, try shimming it, the tank is leaking, try replacing the gasket, and if it keeps leaking, then you will have to get a new tank.

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    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    http://www.terrylove.com/forums/show...-by-Jamie-Love

    Make sure the large flush valve nut is tight.
    There should be no metal washers in the tank.
    The rubber washer is placed on the brass bolt, and dropped through the tank. The metal washer goes on the outside of the tank, and is snugged on by a nut. Doing it this way also makes for a firmer installation. I don't worry if the tank moves some.

    The tank may not pull down all the way into the cradle. Not a big deal.
    Follow the instructions in the link above and all should be well.
    We've installed thousands without problems.
    Last edited by Terry; 08-21-2013 at 11:04 AM.

  4. #4
    DIY kid who loves toilets Starwarsith88's Avatar
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    I think that kohler has never been good with the bowl rinse on any of their toilets.

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    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    The installer had to keep adjusting the center flush valve nut to get the tank to sit tight and not rock.
    I can't picture what that would look like.
    The tank sits on the bowl, hopefully the rubber washer on the flush valve would be placed "on center" with the hole in the bowl. And then snugged down.


  6. #6
    DIY Senior Member DanMcD's Avatar
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    Terry.

    He did all the steps just like your said. His next step will be to re-check the entire tank (including the flush valve nut again), then get a new set of rubber washers to place on the brass bolts. FYI, there are no metal washers in the tank. The metal washers are on the oputside of the tank.

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    DIY Senior Member DanMcD's Avatar
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    The tank is level. We will check the tank for any hairline cracks, and if none, replace all gaskets and washers. Then replace the tank, if needed. I’m not too happy about all this.

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    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    His next step will be to re-check the entire tank (including the flush valve nut again
    Unless the tank is cracked, that should be enough.
    In "rare" occasions, I've pulled the flush valve out of the tank, and checked for smoothness where the flush valve drops into the tank. A small speck of clay can lift the vinyl seal enough to allow a leak.

    I've always been able to use the gaskets. At the worst, check for smoothness or snuggness.
    If there is a crack, all bets are off.
    Last edited by Terry; 08-21-2013 at 11:59 AM.

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    DIY Senior Member wjcandee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DanMcD View Post
    My installer is a very experienced and conscientious person.
    Except he can't seem to install a Drake II tank without leaks. He shouldn't have had to adjust the center flush valve nut. If it's leaking around a tank bolt, then that's where to look. By double-nutting, that particular process is what creates the seal between the bolt head, washer and tank. That connection is what needs to be checked. Maybe lightly-sanding around bolt holes, then applying the right amount of torque to the nut on the tank bolt outside of the tank should create the proper seal there. Once that's done, then you attach the tank to the bowl with the other nut and metal washer. Getting that tank level requires a little patience, and willingness to tighten slowly while holding in place, moving smoothly and evenly down while alternating between bolts and watching how the three points of contact converge. You shouldn't need to "shim" anything. What he's talking about is a "solution" to a nonexistent problem. You shouldn't need a different tank-to-bowl set with Toto, but if they have been stripped or something by now, then get a good one, with two metal washers, two rubber washers and two nuts per bolt, like this one (not necessarily this one, but this array of quality items):
    Last edited by Terry; 02-16-2014 at 04:39 PM.

  10. #10
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    You shouldn't need to "shim" anything
    We've never shimmed a tank to a bowl on a Drake before.

    You can also tap on the tank with your knuckles to hear if it has been cracked.

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