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Thread: Gorilla glue/ spout question

  1. #16
    DIY Senior Member asktom's Avatar
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    We need a picture.

  2. #17
    DIY Junior Member Chuckalutes's Avatar
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    One last question can I hit the handles with a hammer to break it off. I know it doesnt sound right but the screws are corroded shut. Is there any other way to get the screws off?

  3. #18
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    can I hit the handles with a hammer to break it off.
    If you do that.............be prepared to shut down the entire house and to be out of water until it's fixed.
    That's mighty risky.

  4. #19
    DIY Junior Member Chuckalutes's Avatar
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    That's why I don't want to do it so how do I get the screws off

  5. #20
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    I'm just saying that we know where the house shutoff is before we do anything like that.
    And we're prepared to replace the entire valve if needed. It's sometimes quicker to assume that the valve will be junked and replaced if it's that old.

    But then, we haven't seen any pictures, so it's just a shot in the dark.




    We sometimes replace the old valve and start over.
    Last edited by Terry; 08-22-2013 at 04:35 PM.

  6. #21
    DIY Junior Member Chuckalutes's Avatar
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    Of course I know where the shut off is what I'm asking is your recommendation on taking out the corroded screws on the handles.

  7. #22
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    1. It would have been IMPOSSIBLE to "solder" the original spout on, so that diagnosis is invalic.
    2. Drill the screws out.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

  8. #23
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Terry; I hadn't seen an American Standard push/pull valve in decades until another plumber asked me how to fix one a couple of months ago and had to show him how to access the pistons.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

  9. #24
    DIY Junior Member Chuckalutes's Avatar
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    I can just drill right between them?

    Last edited by Terry; 08-22-2013 at 07:08 PM. Reason: added pic

  10. #25
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    First, see if you can find new trim and replacement stems for your valve. If you can't, you might as well just bite the bullet and change the entire thing out. Then, depending on what valve you have, you could probably just cut it off. A remodel or renovation plate is likely your friend there, as it can cover the bigger hole you may need to gain access, and cover the old wider spread of the handles.

    To drill out the screws, if you're going to throw the valve away, I'd not bother. Only if I was going to try to save things would it be worth the effort. THen, you'd drill through the center of the screw with a drill bit big enough to free up the head once you get through it. You may need a puller to then remove the handle. You typically need the handle off before you can remove the stem.

    We still haven't seen a picture of what you have, so some of this is just generic - to get specific, we need to know what you have.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  11. #26
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    I can just drill right between them?
    How old is this guy?



    hj,
    This picture is for you. I think tomorrow I will take it apart for pictures. My parents had one like this in their 1962 Master bath.

    http://www.terrylove.com/forums/show...l-Shower-Valve
    Last edited by Terry; 08-23-2013 at 12:16 PM.

  12. #27
    DIY Senior Member asktom's Avatar
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    Two things...
    (1) Drill the top of the screw until the head pops off, pull off the handle, squirt on the magic "loosen it" juice of your choice, then remove the bottom part of the screw with pliers
    (2) In plumbing, Gorilla Glue is only very rarely the correct answer.

  13. #28
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Well, the mechanism was first used by Schaible for their sink faucets in the 50s, then Sears adopted it for their Lady Kenmore line, later American Standard used it on their first "control tower" sinks, (which then became a disaster), and finally it wound up in the push/pull line of bathroom faucets in the 60s. The problem with the design is that the handle turns the faucet on, but springs have to turn it off and if the spring or stem gets stuck on something, there is NOTHING in the universe that is going to turn it off until you take it apart. My boss's doctor had a Shaible faucet in his kitchen on the North side of Chicago and we were in the South suburbs. Every so often, until I got fed up and changed the faucet, it would stick and I had to go up there and "unstick" it. Someone was making a "Moen" style retrofit "front end" for the push/pull but I have not seen it for years.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

  14. #29
    DIY Junior Member Chuckalutes's Avatar
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    I appreciate your help jadnashua. Thank you.

  15. #30
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chuckalutes View Post
    I appreciate your help jadnashua. Thank you.
    Glad I can help...it keeps the brain cells from atrophying, and gives me something to do when I get bored.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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