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Thread: Main Floor Washer/Sink plumbing setup question

  1. #1
    DIY Member closer's Avatar
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    Default Main Floor Washer/Sink plumbing setup question

    I came across this setup while searching through this site. It looks like it will work for me although I don't have quite the same distance between the washing machine and my drop in sink (not a normal washing tub) as they are both side by each. I have a new LG front load and a single stainless sink to instal. The old top loader drained to a simple 45 pipe that was tied into my laundry tub. The room itself is at the front of the two story house while my air stack is closer to the back of the house.
    I will be using a washing machine outlet box like the one in the photo. I will be recessing the pipes into the wall (inside wall) once I have torn the drywall out.
    Just wondering if I can go ahead and use this same setup for my own? the original thread was here and the photo (if it doesn't show here is the one at the bottom of the page as offered by Hammerlane.

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  2. #2
    In the Trades Tom Sawyer's Avatar
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    Sure you can.
    [B]No, plumbing ain't rocket science. Unlike rocket science, plumbing requires a license[B]

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    DIY Senior Member asktom's Avatar
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    The combination below the cleanout could be a sanitary tee.

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    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Unless your installation is LIKE that one, and you indicate that it might not be, then this might not be the easiest, or best, piping arrangement for your purposes.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

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    DIY Member closer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hj View Post
    Unless your installation is LIKE that one, and you indicate that it might not be, then this might not be the easiest, or best, piping arrangement for your purposes.
    It looks pretty much identical... With the washing machine on the left and a sink on the right side. Once we have the drywall off we will have a better view of what is behind but I'm thinking it will be close if not the same. Hoping to tear the drywall off this weekend so will post back then.

    I'm interested to know though why you think it may not be the best arrangement for my purposes.

  6. #6
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    In many cases it is going to be more complicated than you really need, but it depends on WHERE the vertical pipe is in the wall and in relation to the washer/sink locations.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

  7. #7
    DIY Member closer's Avatar
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    I've got a few spots opened up to see what's in behind... also to show the proximity of the washer to the sink...
    One image shows the unit locations... the other the existing plumbing
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  8. #8
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    there is an electrical outlet from an adjoining room within inches of the plumbing (slightly visible in photo behind the cold water supply line)... no doubt not to any code... and I will be relocating it before proceeding with any plumbing. I also have to move the PTrap higher as there will be a cabinet slid into the area where the laundry tub is now... so... do you still think I have room to do the setup as it appears in the first photo? I have standard 16" studs in the wall to work with and it looks like only one set to slide everything through to make it work... not nearly as many as appear in the setup example.

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    DIY Senior Member dj2's Avatar
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    The plan in the first photo has flaws.

    1. Washing machine standpipe must be 36" to 42" tall: lower the trap and raise the box.
    2. Electrical outlet must be GFI/GFCI.
    3. I would relocate the vent for the washing machine:

  10. #10
    DIY Senior Member asktom's Avatar
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    UPC specifies the trap to be 6" to 18" above the floor and the standpipe 18" to 30" tall. I would put the trap at 12" and use a 30" standpipe.

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    DIY Member rosem637's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dj2 View Post
    The plan in the first photo has flaws.

    1. Washing machine standpipe must be 36" to 42" tall: lower the trap and raise the box.
    2. Electrical outlet must be GFI/GFCI.
    3. I would relocate the vent for the washing machine:
    #2 and #3 have no merit.

    Im going to say Outlet has GFI breaker.
    No functional reason to relocate vent for standpipe just because you say you would.
    Last edited by rosem637; 08-14-2013 at 02:11 AM.

  12. #12
    DIY Member closer's Avatar
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    I have everything in place from the wet side... But have a very tiny leak at the copper brass threaded connection entering the Oakey box. It's on the hot side and seems to be leaking at the threads. I connected the two with plumbers dope as I was told this was better than Teflon etc for anther job and in fact it cured a previous thread leak on a washroom instal. The problems have now is that all the copper has been set in place and while I've turned the copper brass connection tighter (less than 1/4 turn) I'm afraid any more and two things will happen... 1 I will not be able to connect the hot water hose coming from the washing machine and 2 it will put undue stress on the copper joins which so far are showing signs that my soldering techniques are improving!
    What should I do about this leak as it will eventually be buried behind drywall?

  13. #13
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    Here's the photo of where it's at now... with the leaky joint being the one with the old sock around it... I'm not sure why I ever used this box cuz it appears that there is no way to make adjustments to the joint without twisting and warping everything else in place. When I installed it I had it in place, soldered the down pipe to the copper threaded part, let it cool and then applied the plumber's dope to the threads and tightened it... same with the cold side that does not leak... both were tightened to about the same tautness but not overtightened... ... later I soldered the other joints then soldered that unit to the downpipe... this morning I found the drip and the rest is (bad) history

    guess my next question is... what do I do next to get out of this mess...
    a) unsolder the joint at the base of the 9" downpipe, clean it up, secure the threaded joint then resolder the joint again then hope for the best... my skills may not allow this
    b) unscrew the hot water valve (which does not presently leak!), tighten the copper brass connection, reattach the hot water valve with "x" number of wraps of teflon so that it faces the front again...
    c) find some other solution for below the water outlet box... ie... a flexible hose... but that may not either be code (inside wall) or advisable as it then brings two threaded connections into the mix
    d) do the laundry at the the local laundromat this weekend
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    Last edited by closer; 08-16-2013 at 03:24 PM. Reason: added more info

  14. #14
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    Those threads are not tapered. They are meant to have a pipe inserted inside the end and soldered. No female fitting should be used there.
    It took us plumbers a while to figure that one out too.

    Just unthread and remove. Put it together with a section of pipe soldered on. Drop it back down into the box, and then using a coupling, solder it back up.
    you're almost there

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    Holy Shmoly!!! I'd have never in a million figured that one out... Thanks Terry...

    Now i have another question... when i soldered the 9" copper with (unnecessary) fitting to the brass one (like I shouldn't have) i left the valve open and had a wet (not soaking) rag around the top of the pipe to make sure that it didn't melt the plastic... but will I be able to unthread it ok without twisting the existing setup?... I'll check before doing anything drastic... anyway... else I'll have to cut the 9" section or lower to keep the heat further away from the plastic box and valve (left it on first time cuz I couldn't unfasten it! (probably just weak and afraid of cranking it!)...

    Any special tips for soldering copper pipe to a brass fitting?

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