Trying to install a new sink but can't turn off shutoff valves on old one...

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Jadnashua

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Well, it's time to find and check the main shutoff for the house. Hopefully, that one works. ONce you have that off, replace the shutoffs. 1/4-turn ball valves tend to be less likely to corrode, but there's no guarantees. Once you do get the main off, you could try some pliers on those under the sink. Maybe a shot of pbblaser (a spray penetrating oil) may free it up. Works best if you can leave it overnight to penetrate. Don't try to force those until you have the main off, as they could break - if it does happen, it's usually just the shaft and won't leak, but you don't want the worst case scenario. Those are threaded on, so pick up some new ones, some pipe dope (think it will work better than tape on those old threads, but you could use both), and spin them off. Only gotcha is if it spins out of the wall...use a second set of pliers to hold the pipe when trying to remove the valve. It could get messy if that nipple comes out of the wall. If it is galvanized, it may actually be a good idea to replace it with a brass one. LIttle things sometimes become bigger ones.
 
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Can anyone please tell me what kind of valve I should get to replace these? What kind of ball valve just screws on?
 

Jadnashua

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Every company makes some, but look at page 10 from this one http://www.brasscraft.com/PDF/0300_Water_Supplies_Catalog.pdf Many faucets come with preinstalled hoses...you'd take off the compression nut and compression ring on the new stop, throw them away, and screw your hose directly to the new valve after you installed it. Often, that would be a 3/8", and your pipe in the wall is probably 1/2" FIP. Can't tell for sure without being there.
 
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Every company makes some, but look at page 10 from this one http://www.brasscraft.com/PDF/0300_Water_Supplies_Catalog.pdf Many faucets come with preinstalled hoses...you'd take off the compression nut and compression ring on the new stop, throw them away, and screw your hose directly to the new valve after you installed it. Often, that would be a 3/8", and your pipe in the wall is probably 1/2" FIP. Can't tell for sure without being there.

I totally get that part, but what would I do with that nipple in the wall? The other end is a male end not a female end so it couldnt screw on.
 

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Are you intending to replace the nipple as well? They come in various lengths, and you may find a chrome-plated brass one rather than trying to paint a galvanized one. Not a bad idea to replace the nipple, but from my first post, I talked about holding onto that part with some pliers to ensure it didn't come loose...once loosened, you need to take it out, reapply some pipe sealant (either tape or pipe dope) before reinserting. That connection can be a pain if the elbow isn't anchored. If it comes out easily - just pick up a brass or chromed brass nipple and replace it, probably along with a new cover. If it's already broken loose...might as well replace. If the elbow shifts in the wall, then it can get messy...may have to open up the wall some to get things realigned and then tightened up. FWIW, all chromed, supply shutoffs I've seen come with female fittings on the supply end, which is why they have a nipple there now.
 
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Wow, i feel like a total idiot. I thought the nipple would need to be soldered into the copper behind it. I guess thats not the case and the copper has a threaded end too, then. I think I'm going to just keep the nipple in there. Thanks a lot for all the information; feels good to finally understand what's going on down there.
 
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Jadnashua

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If you loosened that nipple up, you must remove it and apply new sealing compound (tape or pipe dope). It is unlikely to reseal if you broke it loose without fresh stuff. While it is out, I'd probably take it to the store and find a new one the same length, preferably chrome plated brass. Well, it doesn't have to be exactly the same length as long as it is long enough to allow you to screw both ends in tight enough. FWIW, just get it started in the wall, start the new valve on it, then use the valve to tighten both threaded ends up tight.
 
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