Simple installation of toilet fill valve, either Korky or fluidmaster

Hello,

I have a question regarding installing a new fill valve for my toilet.

Please let me know of any suggestions. I just want to make sure I am doing this correctly.

My actual supply line nut is made of metal.

For the flange lock nut that holds the stem of the fill valve. This stem is the portion extended from toilet tank. Is this suppose to be tighten to snug, then and 1/4 turn. Hand finger tighten only.

Also, for the braided stainless steel pressure hose. Is this suppose to be tighten to snug, then and 1/4 turn - 3/8 turn. Hand finger tighten only.

Do not use any wrenches or pliers, or any hardware tool.

Is this correct.


Thank you

You may need pliers for the fill valve nut on the tank.
Though the Korky does spin on by hand.
The stainless flex connector can be done by hand at the top, but the small end near the shutoff will need pliers or a wrench.

Here's a video by Korky on how to install the 528MP fill valve, which has an adjustable refill ratio so you can use it on your Toto:


I think you'll find that the Korky is easiest to install.

flange and nut torque.

Terry said:

You may need pliers for the fill valve nut on the tank.
Though the Korky does spin on by hand.
The stainless flex connector can be done by hand at the top, but the small end near the shutoff will need pliers or a wrench.

Click to expand...

Thanks for your help.
Is it tightent to snug then add 1/4 turn.

Depending on your hand strength, that may or may not work. Try it, and if it leaks, you may need some pliers or a wrench to tighten it slightly more. For me, I can generally tighten it enough so it doesn't leak by hand.

On the Korky, you hand-tighten both the mounting nut that secures the shank to the toilet (beveled side up on that nut), and the coupling nut of the water supply hose to the shank. I tighten by hand until they are kinda snug, then a quarter-turn by hand if possible. That's been good enough for me in all instances, including both new toilets and old toilets I was rehabbing. It doesn't need the extra strain of over-torquing to keep a seal. I have never had a leak doing it that way, and I have installed quite a few of these by now -- all Korkys.

You might find that you need the extra leverage of a pair of pliers to get the old one off. Usually getting the old thing off takes most of the total job time.

Since I do not like to "go back" because of a leak, I tighten the fill valve to the toilet, and supply line to the fill valve as tight as possible with pliers.