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Thread: water softener advice

  1. #31
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gary Slusser View Post
    Well folks, for more insight into Jeremy's reason to be here, and how wild his ideas can get....

    http://www.terrylove.com/forums/show...nearby-bathtub


    I see nothing of contreversy here at all. It sounds like a very reasonable and proper way to do it. Remodelling a room for a different application is not a difficult or unusual thing to do. if the room no longer needs a bathtub, then why not get rid of it, re-do the drain to code for a softener, and regain the additional space that was lost to the tub. How is this "wild"? Oh yeah, its called trolling...

  2. #32
    In the Trades Tom Sawyer's Avatar
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    Well yes, I do understand your point. I was attempting to be diplomatic LOL but then I'm just a broken down and bitter old man in my 50's. living off the swett of my father LOL. Never mind that my dad retired from the business and handed it to me 30 some years ago and I have since handed it to my brother oh, and its been very profitable since day one and remains so today.
    [B]No, plumbing ain't rocket science. Unlike rocket science, plumbing requires a license[B]

  3. #33
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ditttohead View Post
    FYI, Jeremy comes with exceptional knowledge and credentials. He has been an active proponent of the water treatment industry for many years and brings actual knowledge based on years of experience.
    I guess you know Jeremy personally and can vouch for him.

    Jeremy's exceptional knowledge! Telling someone with the handle of Amateur Plumber to remove a bathtub so he can use the drain line for his softener is just dumb.

    The answer to his question of using the tub for his regeneration water is YES he can. And if he keeps/stops the end of the drain line a couple inches above the rim of the tub, it should meet code. And if it didn't who cares unless the tub doesn't drain well or he is going to have to have things inspected.

    Quote Originally Posted by ditttohead View Post
    Those that troll around and hate people who have insurance, certifications, licenses, education, and field experience seem to get very jealous of anyone who is on this forum offering good advice. It is sad to see a simple question get turned into a multi page trolling mostrosity, I thought this had ended a month ago. I guess someone just cant help themselves.

    And Tom, it wasnt "online dealers" that made Clack enforce their rules, it was a "BAD" online dealer, and I think we all know who I am referring to.
    There you go with more of your gossiping.... and personally attacking me.

    I have a copy of Clack's distributor contract that shows there were no "rules" against online/internet sales of their valves. It says if there was a problem with a dealer, the distributor supplying said dealer was to educate the dealer as to how to conduct business and if s/he refused to, to refuse to sell him equipment using Clack valves. From their first effort to prevent online sales in early July 2005 (all but 5 yrs after the introduction of the WS-1), until the spring of 2010, all but 10 years after the introduction of their WS1 valve, Clack did nothing about enforcing that "rule" and then decided to prevent everyone from selling Clack valves online.

    Question, why would Clack do that IF it was all due to one BAD dealer as you (and other WQA members) say?

    Also, since you claim to be a distributor of Clack valves, whip out your contract and copy/paste and post the "rules" you are talking about. Show a date before Feb 1 2010 so we are talking about the same contract.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  4. #34
    In the Trades Tom Sawyer's Avatar
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    I don't believe it was one bad dealer but it was enough bad dealers that clack shut Internet sales down. I suppose we could get into a pissing match over who was the worst of the bad dealers but only clack would have that information and it seems like they have better things to do than play childish games.
    [B]No, plumbing ain't rocket science. Unlike rocket science, plumbing requires a license[B]

  5. #35
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    So many years later and he still cant get over it. LOL!

    I started to respond to the troll, then I remebered to not feed them.

  6. #36
    In the Trades Tom Sawyer's Avatar
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    Well lets do some math, 36 posts and 11 of them ar actually on topic. LOL.

    That's about normal here

    For those keeping records, the train goes off the track at post#13
    [B]No, plumbing ain't rocket science. Unlike rocket science, plumbing requires a license[B]

  7. #37
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    I and others say it stated in post # 12.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  8. #38
    In the Trades Tom Sawyer's Avatar
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    What others LOL.

    Oh I see, the motor home thing LOL. Oh well, at least nobody's calling you a burn up old man with a drinking problem LOL
    Last edited by Tom Sawyer; 08-02-2013 at 06:07 PM.
    [B]No, plumbing ain't rocket science. Unlike rocket science, plumbing requires a license[B]

  9. #39
    DIY Junior Member rockman's Avatar
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    Installation went fine. Seems to be functioning according as planned. I'm glad I didn't go the big box store option. Thanks again for all the help!
    Attached Images Attached Images   

  10. #40
    In the Trades Tom Sawyer's Avatar
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    That's a nice unit and the installation looks clean. Nice job and good luck.
    [B]No, plumbing ain't rocket science. Unlike rocket science, plumbing requires a license[B]

  11. #41
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    Very nice installation! The only thing I would have done differently was the plumbing connectors. Fleck makes Sweat connectors to replace the plastic threaded connectors. It will not affect anything, I just prefer to do them that way.

    Just a note, check you air gaps in the floor sink. Confirm your code allows them to be below the level. Most codes require that there is an air gap of twice the diameter of the pipe, but not less than 1". Also, electrical grounding, check that you did not interupt the grounding with the break in the copper plumbing at the softener. A simple jumper can correct that.

  12. #42
    DIY Junior Member rockman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ditttohead View Post
    Very nice installation! The only thing I would have done differently was the plumbing connectors. Fleck makes Sweat connectors to replace the plastic threaded connectors. It will not affect anything, I just prefer to do them that way.

    Just a note, check you air gaps in the floor sink. Confirm your code allows them to be below the level. Most codes require that there is an air gap of twice the diameter of the pipe, but not less than 1". Also, electrical grounding, check that you did not interupt the grounding with the break in the copper plumbing at the softener. A simple jumper can correct that.
    Thanks for the tips. I'll double-check the air gaps and grounding. As for the plumbing connector I used this Fleck 90 degree elbow to give me more flexibility in mounting and get it closer to the wall. http://www.ohiopurewater.com/shop/cu...cat=462&page=1

    edit to add: K, I see what your saying about the drain. The one for the water softener is on the far right. I could cut off the 90 or perhaps just drill a hole in it. That would prevent siphoning of non-potable water or wastewater back into the softener in the event of system back-up. Also, with regards to grounding all of the copper is in the walls. None of it goes into the slab or to the main. It's all PEX.
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    Last edited by rockman; 09-10-2013 at 12:43 PM.

  13. #43
    In the Trades Tom Sawyer's Avatar
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    Your air gaps are above the drain, they are fine.
    [B]No, plumbing ain't rocket science. Unlike rocket science, plumbing requires a license[B]

  14. #44
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Sawyer View Post
    Your air gaps are above the drain, they are fine.
    Really? All end below the rim of the drain including the softener drain line. How is the softener drain line an acceptable air gap?

    Rockman, an air gap is not meant to stop/prevent siphoning, it is meant to stop cross connection, meaning the drain line water is not able to touch or come in contact with non potable water. And IMO, the applies to your black 3/8" line from the salt tank overflow elbow. Normally code calls for twice the ID of the drain line as an air gap above the rim of the sink/drain/stand pipe etc. the drain water goes into. You are using 3/4" so a minimum of a 1.25" air cap.

    You'll have to ask Tom why he thinks you have an OK air gap, he doesn't like me to mention possible reasons why he says dumb stuff.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  15. #45
    In the Trades Tom Sawyer's Avatar
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    Ahhhh because he's only required to have an air break, not an air gap. You can find the difference in your code book...Opps you don't have one of them.
    [B]No, plumbing ain't rocket science. Unlike rocket science, plumbing requires a license[B]

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