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Thread: 3 handle tub/shower rebuild

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member dsgt's Avatar
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    Question 3 handle tub/shower rebuild

    I just had a three handle tub/shower rebuilt using Price Pfister rebuild kit and the outcome is aesthetically unfortunate. The hub of the faucet handle is about an inch shorter than the sleeve and 1/2 inch larger in diameter. Apparently there are no parts that will allow the hub to fit flush against the tiled wall. It is functional and has an excellent seal, but the appearance would be greatly improved if the sleeve and the hub were the same diameter. Any suggestions for solving this problem will be hugely appreciated.

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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Rebuild on old shower controls that (probably) don't have today's minimum requirements is, IMHO, kind of a waste of time and money. Yes, you can legally, per code, rebuild an existing installation in most places, but it's better in the long term to replace the whole shebang. It is rare that someone makes trim that fits older faucets. Not saying it doesn't happen, especially if it was a particularly popular one, but there isn't a huge market, and the variations makes it uneconomical. The remodel plates generally required to cover those holes when a new one is installed don't look bad (would look better than the gaps you have!) and would work until you decided on a remodel and can do it without one.
    Jim DeBruycker
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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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    DIY Junior Member dsgt's Avatar
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    Thank you. Decision to rebuild is based on (a) need to shower and (b) not ready to rip out and replace the wall/floor tile yet. Can you tell me more about the remodel plates are you suggesting?

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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    To get access to the existing valve (unless you can get to it from behind), and remove it, you need a bigger hole. THen, you need to cover it or rebuild the wall. Often, you do not want to rebuild the wall. Each company seems to make one or more in various finishes and shapes to cover that bigger hole. Then, you mount the new valve's trim on top of this. I used one like this at my mother's house awhile ago to replace her aging tub/shower valve. http://www.deltafaucet.com/repairpar...rp29827ss.html This Olde House has a segment where they installed one, you can probably find and watch it on their website.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    I would have to see what parts you used, and what the old ones looked like. If you used the correct parts, it would look EXACTLY like the old one, although if I had repaired it, it would look like the current models, but in any case the handles and flanges would fit correctly. I would also have to know what you mean by "sleeve" and "hub" because those terms have a specific connotation.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

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    DIY Junior Member dsgt's Avatar
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    Thanks to both of you. I could not begin to explain the terms hub and sleeve. I looked a labeled diagram to learn how to describe the problem to people who actually understand plumbing. Someone who looked at a picture of my shower said all the stuff inside the wall needs to be moved further back. I don't know if that is possible, but it's worth pursuing.

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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Anything's possible at a cost, but if you're going to pay someone to do that, it would be about the same work to install a new valve which would bring that portion of the house up to current code and safety. All new valves must meet the anti-scald requirements - repair on an old one is grandfathered.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    The terms hub and sleeve, if you are using them correctly apply to the handle attachment and tube. BUT, they usually are used on the newest trim styles which use a shorter stem, not the older Verve model with the long stem, which is why I asked WHICH parts did you use? The handle's "hub" NEVER goes against the wall, but neither do you ever have to "move the valve body back into the wall further". How about a picture of what it looks like so we can see if your perception of what it should look like is faulty.
    Last edited by hj; 07-18-2013 at 07:16 AM.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

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    DIY Senior Member asktom's Avatar
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    Your Price Pfister valve has more options for trim than about anything on the market. Give us a picture.

    At the risk of offending and going against most plumbing codes, if you haven't had a problem with scalding, don't worry about that code - you are grandfathered in anyway. Sorry about the rant to follow, but, in an individual home, it strikes me that the only reason for a pressure balancing valves is that it allows the water piping to be undersized (= cheaper). If there are water pressure issues or in an apartment or hotel where there is a statistical possibility of an usual situation, well, OK, I can see it. I live by myself in a one bath home, to put a pressure balancing valve in would be a stupid waste of money.

    Meanwhile, send us a picture, you no doubt have options.

  10. #10
    DIY Junior Member dsgt's Avatar
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    New shower handles solved problem. Thanks to all for advice.

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