(206) 949-5683, Top Rated Plumber, Seattle
Results 1 to 13 of 13

Thread: how to sweat a threaded valve?

  1. #1
    DIY Member jerome7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    95020
    Posts
    75

    Default how to sweat a threaded valve?

    I have a valve w/ threads on the inlet and outlets. Is it preferable to sweat the copper pipe by inserting it inside the in/outlet or use a female adapter and sweat the pipe to it. The attached picture shows both options.

    I believe before sweating we need to remove the cartridge which is usually made of plastic and can melt during sweating. But on this valve, I can see a yellow plastic tip sticking out, but I don't see any way to disassemble the valve. It's a diverter valve (Kenzo from Pfister).

    How can I insert this valve between my shower head and shower supply valve without damaging it.

    Thanks for you help
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  2. #2
    In the Trades Tom Sawyer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Maine
    Posts
    2,942

    Default

    In the box that the valve came in you will find the instructions. The valve is designed to use either threaded or swett connections according to the directions.
    [B]No, plumbing ain't rocket science. Unlike rocket science, plumbing requires a license[B]

  3. #3
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    Posts
    25,655

    Default

    Most plumbers would solder in to the valve. Most DIYers would use the adapters. You unscrew the front of the diverter to take it apart.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

  4. #4
    DIY Senior Member DougB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Minneapolis - Land of 10,000 taxes
    Posts
    137

    Default

    I'd sweat the FPT adapter to a length of copper tubing - then connect the assembly to the valve.
    If a hammer won't fix it, it's an electrical problem.

  5. #5
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    Posts
    25,655

    Default

    Doing that is why most DIYers use the adapters.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

  6. #6
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    New England
    Posts
    21,412

    Default

    FWIW, it's always a good idea to take the cartridge out and flush the lines before reinstalling it. So, if you have to take it apart anyway, why use the adapters which adds another joint that could leak? Adds cost, too (not much, but hey, it's still money).
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  7. #7
    In the Trades Gary Swart's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Yakima WA
    Posts
    7,246

    Default

    I have not claim on being a pro, and as HJ points out, most of us DIY types solder to the adapter then screw the assembly into the valve. Why? What did you not understand about me not being a pro? LOL Yes, Jim, it does cost a few cents to do that, but I'll spend a few cent on insurance to potentially save dollars on replacing a valve that got too hot. I'd like to think that I have good enough soldering skills to not screw up, but I'm not willing to gamble to find out.

  8. #8
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    New England
    Posts
    21,412

    Default

    You missed my point...many installation instructions tell you to remove the cartridge, turn the water on to flush the lines out (prevents clogging up the new cartridge), then reinstall it. So, if you follow instructions, you'd have the cartridge out so why not solder the pipes in then - it's more robust and less prone to problems.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  9. #9
    DIY Member jerome7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    95020
    Posts
    75

    Default

    Thanks for your input all. In my case, if I use an adapter I might have to screw it to the valve first, then sweat the copper pipe to the adapter.
    The reason is the supply valve is already in place and I don't need to move it. Since I can't rotate it, I need to screw the adapter first than slide the pipe in and sweat it.

  10. #10
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    New England
    Posts
    21,412

    Default

    Note a great idea...neither the tape nor pipe dope really like the heat of soldering right next to it. Then, once you've got the pipe solid with the soldered connection, if the threaded one does leak, you have to unsolder things and probably cut thing in order to be able to pull it out and fix things.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  11. #11
    DIY Member jerome7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    95020
    Posts
    75

    Default

    I didn't thought about that tape, but that is a good catch. Thanks.
    I see no advantage of using the adapter at this point. More joins is more potential points of failure.
    If I could assemble the whole system on the floor and then attach it to the wall, I can see how the adapter could make it easier..
    But I don't want to disconnect the supply valve from the PEX tubes and have to reattach it later.

  12. #12
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Bothell, Washington
    Posts
    14,202
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    If you thread the adapter on first before soldering, it's the same as inserting the pipe and soldering.
    Except you have added that many more places to leak.

    If you use a male adapter, you solder it onto a section of pipe first, and then thread to the valve. Which I consider a big waste of time, and potential for plumbing problems.

  13. #13
    TROJAN WORLDWIDE SALES RP MACPLUMB 777's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Houston, Texas, United States
    Posts
    631
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    Aw just get some shark bites and be done with it already

    MACPLUMB 777

    E-MAIL
    JERRYMAC@TROJANWORLDWIDE.COM


    35 YEAR MASTER PLUMBER, HEATING, ELECTRIC, DRAINS, FIRE SPRINKLERS, WATER HEATER
    AND BOILERS SINCE JAN, 1989

    281-706-1631 7 DYS A WEEK SALES AND TECH. SUPPORT
    Trojan Worldwide Web Site


     



Similar Threads

  1. Winterize Ant-sweat valve
    By fidodie in forum Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & Tricks
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 08-22-2011, 02:10 PM
  2. Sweat in new shower valve question
    By HDFAN1 in forum Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & Tricks
    Replies: 33
    Last Post: 08-09-2007, 08:26 AM
  3. sweat vs threaded on a boiler
    By bdike in forum Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & Tricks
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 10-05-2006, 06:40 PM
  4. Compression, Sweat, and Threaded Fitttings: The Pros and Cons
    By Climber in forum Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & Tricks
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 01-23-2006, 11:09 AM
  5. OK to sweat a threaded valve connection?
    By orandennison in forum Shower & bathtub Forum & Blog
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 06-13-2005, 01:30 AM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •