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Thread: 1/4 HardieBacker Board for Walls?

  1. #1
    DIY Member MAD King's Avatar
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    Default 1/4 HardieBacker Board for Walls?

    Hello,

    I have a lot of the 1/4 HardieBacker Cement Board left from floor tiling.
    When I put two together, can I use that for walls too?

    Thank you

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    ACO Shower Drain Sales johnfrwhipple's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MAD King View Post
    Hello,

    I have a lot of the 1/4 HardieBacker Cement Board left from floor tiling.
    When I put two together, can I use that for walls too?




    Thank you

    Never seen that done before. Maybe if the second sheet was thin-setted to the first it might fly. Might even be stronger....

    I think 1/4" is approved by the maker for wall tile but I would not trust it. If the two are bonded to each other I would bet you get a strong backer.

    JW


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    DIY Member MAD King's Avatar
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    So you think if I would put a thinset between it would work and even be stronger? Theoretical it makes sense.

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    ACO Shower Drain Sales johnfrwhipple's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MAD King View Post
    So you think if I would put a thinset between it would work and even be stronger? Theoretical it makes sense.
    You need all four sides of cement board secured with studs or blocking. With this in place I would bet that if you nailed off the first layer with some smaller nails and then installed the second layer with a slurry coat of something like Laticrete 254 your net result would be stronger than a 1/2" layer of Hardie. Why not buy one sheet of 1/2" and do a small test.

    Set up a deflection test. Might save you some money if you can find out it works.

    The board should not flex inward more than 1/4" between 16" on center walls studs.

    L/360 deflection for a 16" center wall stud is very low under 1/16". This is very hard to meet with any backer board.

    I would mock up a test and then add 100 lbs of weight on your mock up. Measure the sag. Then check the sag on a 1/2" board. If you are within these ranges I would think your fine.

    What type of waterproofing are you planning to use over this install. If your skipping any waterproofing then having fuller sheets and less seams would be the way to go...

    JW


    jfrwhipple@gmail.com - www-no-curb.com - 604 506 6792

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    DIY Member MAD King's Avatar
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    I contacted Hardie Backer and that is what they wrote me back:

    We do not recommend doubling them up but you can still use them on the wall. They are approved for wall l applications.
    THe do not recommend doubling them, but that doesn't mean that it can't be done to give a more sturdy application, right?

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    ACO Shower Drain Sales johnfrwhipple's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MAD King View Post
    I contacted Hardie Backer and that is what they wrote me back:



    THe do not recommend doubling them, but that doesn't mean that it can't be done to give a more sturdy application, right?

    Perhaps there is a expansion issue or directional expansion.....?


    Could you adding some extra blocking to bring your span's between joists down to 12" center's, then 1/4" plywood then 1/4" hardie? JW


    jfrwhipple@gmail.com - www-no-curb.com - 604 506 6792

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    DIY Member MAD King's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnfrwhipple View Post
    Perhaps there is a expansion issue or directional expansion.....?


    Could you adding some extra blocking to bring your span's between joists down to 12" center's, then 1/4" plywood then 1/4" hardie? JW
    Yes I could add a layer of plywood under, but that doesn't save me money. I have to buy the plywood first and I was trying to use the 1/4" hardie to save money.

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    ACO Shower Drain Sales johnfrwhipple's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MAD King View Post
    Yes I could add a layer of plywood under, but that doesn't save me money. I have to buy the plywood first and I was trying to use the 1/4" hardie to save money.
    Then increase the blocking between studs and make sure you install the sheets the same way (directional). Scrap 2"x4" lumber is everywhere and will cost you nothing to pick up.

    You never answered my question about waterproofing.

    You need to finalize the complete system before jumping in....


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    DIY Member MAD King's Avatar
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    Will do this with the studs and I don't know what type of waterproofing I will use yet.

    Thank you

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    ACO Shower Drain Sales johnfrwhipple's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MAD King View Post
    Will do this with the studs and I don't know what type of waterproofing I will use yet.

    Thank you
    Are you building a tub and shower or just shower?


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    DIY Member MAD King's Avatar
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    Both, but the tub area will be a lot later due the tight money. So this area will be empty until then.

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    ACO Shower Drain Sales johnfrwhipple's Avatar
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    So the project at this point is just the shower. What kind of shower drain are you using? Is the shower base ready made or are you making a custom one?

    Adding waterproofing to the job you can easily expect to pay another $60-90+ to waterproof the walls from the pan to about 6'. Typically 3'x3' shower needs one gallon on liquid membrane or one unit of Ardex 8+9 to waterproof it.

    I would not skip this step. JW


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    DIY Member MAD King's Avatar
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    I don't think you need a waterproof wall. There will be not water standing on the wall for a longer time (gravity).
    I will add as a barrier 15 roof felt behind the backerboard. For the pan I got the membrane. Shower drain is a Luxe which I bought when I still had a job. lol.
    I am making an own pan.

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    ACO Shower Drain Sales johnfrwhipple's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MAD King View Post
    I don't think you need a waterproof wall. ....
    I'd debate you on that point and caution you that with loads of off cuts and no topical waterproofing you might have a mess on your hands.

    JW


    jfrwhipple@gmail.com - www-no-curb.com - 604 506 6792

    Always get construction advice double checked by your local city hall. Flood Test Every Shower - Every Time.

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    DIY Member MAD King's Avatar
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    Physically a 15 roof felt between the studs and the cement board should be fine. If water runs behind grout and board it will be stopped by the felt and the liner of course.
    A membrane over the cement board is of course the better way or top of the line, but a felt behind will work also. Adding a membrane to the felt and leaving the cement board between like sandwich style, creates moisture.
    Correct me if I am wrong.

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