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Thread: Plumbing inspection Failed!! Please Help!!

  1. #16
    DIY Junior Member ReelNauti's Avatar
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    Tom... I've put all this together without gluing anything yet....by you saying that the vents are laying flat you mean that those 3x 1/2 Y's after the toilet drain have to be turned so that the vent pipe faces upward and put a street 45 to go into the wall?? I know its easy for everyone critisize and just say it cant work its all wrong...but having two bathrooms added above a finished space downstairs and having to put all these drains down to the basement is not a easy task. This is the only area that I have to work with.

  2. #17
    In the Trades Tom Sawyer's Avatar
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    Vents below the flood level rim of the highest fixture served By the branch must rise vertical until they are 6" above the fixture so yes, the horizontal bit off the wye is wrong, but the way the main is run there is not enough room for you to be able to roll 1/8 bends. As for the criticism remember it was you that asked the questions. Don't get all defensive when you don't like the answers. Plumbing at the level you are attempting is not an easy task. There is a reason it takes us 4 years, 600 classroom hours and 8000 OJT hours to get a license. If you don't get it right the inspector will just fail it again and if you ignore him and don't bother with an inspection, what you have will done will instantly cause problems and.... If you don't do something about the structural damage you did up there the floor and your DWV piping will eventually sag and not drain properly. But what do I know, I've only been at this for 40 years. I think HJ's had his license since Lincoln was president.

    One more tip. Nail plates and fire caulking are required to pass inspection also.

    BTW, I know I'm a buzz kill, I was an inspector for many years and know what flys and what fails.
    Last edited by Tom Sawyer; 07-14-2013 at 06:09 AM.
    [B]No, plumbing ain't rocket science. Unlike rocket science, plumbing requires a license[B]

  3. #18
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Th reason I did NOT suggest a double Y originally was because I saw that you were going through a joist and using a Y would require that you destroy the joist, which is what you have done.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

  4. #19
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    having two bathrooms added above a finished space downstairs and having to put all these drains down to the basement is not a easy task. This is the only area that I have to work with.
    And that is why we normally don't do our plumbing in a location like yours.
    Normally, it would have been below the floor structure in places and the ceiling would have been boxed out for it.
    We can't cut out the flooring system to put our plumbing in.

    The framers have framing axes and nail guns. It's not even a fair fight.


    At this point, would say, replace the floor joists now, or at least sister new ones alongside all the way out.
    I would locate the main 3" run below the flooring joists knowing you are going to box that in.

    A vent rises above the pipe at the point of take off. Many of your vents could have taken off under the wall above. That would have kept them vertical.

    We can't tell where the wall is below all of that. Knowing the complete layout down to foundation helps us.
    We always need to consider structure. Then we fit our work around and through, "only" if it stays structural.

  5. #20
    DIY Junior Member ReelNauti's Avatar
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    What if I was to get rid of the Flat vent that is downstream of the toilet... I tried to turn that 3x3x2 wye but if I do that it passes the floor joists . would I be able to run a vent off of the top of that wye where I have it capped off?? Is the one vent for the shower good enough for both tub and shower so that flat vent that comes off the 2 IN double wye can be removed?? Under all of this is a bedroom, pretty much in the center. I would've ran the pipes below the floor and boxed off for it but it lands directly in the center of the room....I dropped the 3 IN drain down through the wall that seperates that room and a hallway. I have no other options but to try to make this work...

  6. #21
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    I normally run along a wall, and then jump up and into the bay spaces between floor joists.
    That way I'm not boxing in the center of the room, but along a wall. They do that for heating ducts all the time,and I do it for plumbing too.

    I don't cross joists with 3" pipes.
    And if they are only 2x8, I don't cross even with 2"
    Waste grades down at 1/4" per foot, which makes running with joists leaving you will even less room for drop.

    Many times in dining rooms we will box out around the room on all four walls.
    We may be hiding ducts or pipes on some of the walls, but if we box all four walls at the ceiling, it looks like we planned it.

  7. #22
    DIY Senior Member wjcandee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Terry View Post

    The framers have framing axes and nail guns. It's not even a fair fight.
    That's an inspired comment that elicited a giggle.

    I would point out, though, that you have hot flame, lead, and oakum. Which would permit you to "Go Medieval" on them. I think it would at least slow them down.

  8. #23
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    quote; hat you have hot flame, lead,

    Almost as effective as a pot of hot oil or tar.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

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