My wife and I just bought an old HUD home in West Michigan (North Muskegon) and are in the process of renovating it. All the plumbing to this house was shattered due to neglect and it froze.So I dropped a new well point down, replaced the pump with a 1 hp shallow well pump. The county engineer told me that there are two aquifers in my neighborhood one at about 25-30 ft and one at about 280 ft. The shallow one has the same water content as the deep aquifer but has iron in it as well according to him. So I decided to deal with the iron instead of paying 5-6k for the deep well that has the same issues. The neighbors have a deep well and they have the same issues as me. So what I would like is some advice as to how I can filter this and get good clean water for our soon to be newly remodeled home. All plumbing and water appliances will be new in this home. There will be 1-2 adults and probably one 3 year old a couple times a week. The house is 1400 sq ft, 2 bed room & 1 bath.
The new well pump is in a 5 ft deep cement walled and covered pit. I ran new 3/4 pex into the home thru a 2” conduit so I can change the pipe diameter if I need a larger size to get the GPM I need and not have to dig again. The 1st time was enough 50 ft long and 45” deep. It took me a week to get that accomplished. I have a new 40 gallon bladder thank with the pressure switch at the tank in the garage. The water coming out on the other side is where the 10 GPM was checked.
I bought the house from Fanny Mae (paid cash) so I have no more mortgage. Woo Hoo.
I’m just looking for some advice as to how I should proceed with filtering the water so it doesn't ruin all my hard work. The sinks and toilets that we removed was dark brown stained from the water so whoever had the house before us did not try to filter it. The water comes out tinted and has a funky smell to it. There is no sediment after the water sets for a day or so but it does change color a tad and the water smell gets worse. Below is what I got back from the test that Fanny Mae did on the water to check how safe it was to drink. It passed but I ask my family won’t drink it the way it is or bath in it until it’s cleaned. There was no other information other than what is shown below.
• Iron 5.85
• Sodium 2.30
• Fluoride .10
• Chloride 1.39
• Sulfate 10.60
• Total Nitrite & Nitrate <0.10
• E. Coli Absent
• Total Coli-form Absent
• Hardness (as CaCO3) 98.4
I really appreciate your time, I know how valuable it. Thanks!
Iron is much to high. Not sure about the smell. What does it smell like? Rotten eggs, rotting plants, rotting fish? I would recommend a real water test considering the chep cost to have it done properly. A full test will cost you less that few hundred dollars.
At minimum, an iron removal system should be installed followed by a softener if you desire.
There are dozens of ways to do this. Each with its pluses and minuses.
With the minimal information provided, a simple chlorine injection, contact tank, and backwashing carbon tank would be a good place to start. Followed by a softener if you want softened water to remove the scale that you are likely to get with your water.
Chlorine injection can be done in many ways, I perfer a Chemilizer or similar injection pump, but be warned, they can be noisy. Followed by a simple contact tank with a manual blowdown and a backwashing GAC tank. other treatment methods use aeration, oxidation, etc but each one has its problems and should be done by a local professional who understands your water supply. The method I described may not be the most efficient but is is reliable, simple, and relatively cheap. Other methods include chlorine tablet feeders. these are ok, some people swear by them, others swear at them.
How to rebuild a softener http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8YkJS...ature=youtu.be