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Thread: Pex do's and don'ts

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    HandyWOMAN pitterpat's Avatar
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    Default Pex do's and don'ts

    I am now finishing up the diagrams for the current plumbing pipes that install in my basement, it is a mess so it's taking me some time to re-create and clean up. It is mostly galvanized, I have open joists and now the pipes are below the joists. I plan on replacing most (not the copper) with pex and putting it up in/through the joist. Just wondering if there is a book, site or anybody has any pex do's and don'ts? I plan on doing most of the work myself and use a licensed plumber to make the connection from the well holding tank to the water line and maybe to pull out the old pipes. I will install all of the pex before any waterlines are disconnected that way I can take my time and not worry about having water.

    Thanks, Pat
    Pat Harris
    A HandyWOMAN Service, LLC
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    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Why would you pay an "expensive" plumber to take the old pipes OUT? That is grunt work that any halfway competent person with a saw could do.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

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    DIY Junior Member John28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hj View Post
    Why would you pay an "expensive" plumber to take the old pipes OUT? That is grunt work that any halfway competent person with a saw could do.
    I agree, do that easy work yourself which will save you some towards the Pex.

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    HandyWOMAN pitterpat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hj View Post
    Why would you pay an "expensive" plumber to take the old pipes OUT? That is grunt work that any halfway competent person with a saw could do.
    Because I didn't think abt cuttin them & some need to be unscrewed & I'm not sure I have the strength. Also I'll want the plumber to ck my work.
    Pat Harris
    A HandyWOMAN Service, LLC
    "Why call a handyman when you can call A HandyWOMAN?

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    HandyWOMAN pitterpat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by John28 View Post
    I agree, do that easy work yourself which will save you some towards the Pex.
    John TKS for not being an a$$ in your response.

  6. #6
    DIY Senior Member craigpump's Avatar
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    If you are competent enough to replumb your home, you can do the hookup to the water tank.

    Buy a cordless sawzall to cut the old galvanized, you can probably get a good used one at a pawn shop.

  7. #7
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    PEX is pretty simple. Since it doesn't conduct heat like copper, you can even bundle them together.
    I like using Uponor with and expander. I have a nice battery powered one for that purpose.
    I still use copper around tub and shower valves for stiffness and bracing. And you have to have either copper or standard pipe nipples for a tub spout.

    If you drilling holes through joists, leave at least 2" on the top and bottom. No notching.

    I like a 618 sawzall blade for cutting galvanized. And don't forget something to cover your eyes while cutting.

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    HandyWOMAN pitterpat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Terry View Post
    PEX is pretty simple. Since it doesn't conduct heat like copper, you can even bundle them together.
    I like using Uponor with and expander. I have a nice battery powered one for that purpose.
    I still use copper around tub and shower valves for stiffness and bracing. And you have to have either copper or standard pipe nipples for a tub spout.

    If you drilling holes through joists, leave at least 2" on the top and bottom. No notching.

    I like a 618 sawzall blade for cutting galvanized. And don't forget something to cover your eyes while cutting.
    Terry,
    Thanks!
    When drilling the holes in the joists what size should I drill the holes? Large enough to put both hot and cold lines through or separate holes for each. The supply line from the holding tank to an outside spigot , water softner is 3/4", then the return lines and lines to all the faucets, toilets showers etc will be 1/2".
    Thanks!
    Pat Harris
    A HandyWOMAN Service, LLC
    "Why call a handyman when you can call A HandyWOMAN?

  9. #9
    HandyWOMAN pitterpat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Terry View Post
    PEX is pretty simple. Since it doesn't conduct heat like copper, you can even bundle them together.
    I like using Uponor with and expander. I have a nice battery powered one for that purpose.
    I still use copper around tub and shower valves for stiffness and bracing. And you have to have either copper or standard pipe nipples for a tub spout.

    If you drilling holes through joists, leave at least 2" on the top and bottom. No notching.

    I like a 618 sawzall blade for cutting galvanized. And don't forget something to cover your eyes while cutting.
    Since this will be a one time job and I don't want to shell out the $$$$ for the expander what is the next best Pex to buy after Uponor?
    Pat Harris
    A HandyWOMAN Service, LLC
    "Why call a handyman when you can call A HandyWOMAN?

  10. #10
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    A commoon bit size for plumbing is 1-3/8"
    They make plastic pipe inserts for that size to hold pipe the snug. Not that it really matters with PEX, but if you are also running some copper, it's good to have standardized hole sizes.
    If you choose to bundle, then you might pick up something larger.

    There are a few PEX brands that will work for you. Some use crimpers.

    If you go expanding, then pick up this tool, and sell it after you are done. Otherwise, you shoulders are going to be complaining about what you put them through. I'm a big guy, and the manual expander works me over.


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