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Thread: Toto Unifit Installation, wax ring too thick?

  1. #16
    DIY Senior Member lordmoosh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jadnashua View Post
    AAV's only let air in, it gets forced closed tighter if there's a pressure wave coming down the pipe.
    I checked the vent going through the roof. It looked clean. I hosed it down anyway. There was no change. Still losing water in the downstairs toilet when the upstairs toilet is flushed.The upstairs bathroom has a sink, toilet and tub all connected to the main drain which acts as the main vent of the house. I haven't knocked down any walls but so far I have seen no evidence of separate vent piping in this house. I think everything just connects to the main stack via their drain pipes. The toilet/sink downstairs is tied into the main stack that the above bathroom drains to. When the upstairs toilet is flushed the water in the toilet downstairs shakes and gets pulled into the drain. Is there anything else I can check/do to solve this issue? Could this happen if the main sewer line is partially obstructed?

  2. #17
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    With few very specific situations, and venting between floors isn't one of them, once a pipe is used as a drain line, it CANNOT be also a vent. IOW, your venting system is marginal. May have met codes long ago, but they changed them for a reason over the years.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  3. #18
    DIY Senior Member lordmoosh's Avatar
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    Suggestions?

  4. #19
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    AAVs do not perform well when used on the fixtures of a lower floor. "Lazy" or "cheap" plumbers use AAVs everywhere they can.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

  5. #20
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    The proper way to fix this is to tap in a new vent line for the first floor, and run it up to the vent in a code compliant manner - this means either 6" above the flood rim of the highest drain, or 42" above the floor, whichever is higher - or, run a new vent to the roof or attic, then tap into the vent there. This gives a path to equalize the pressure as waste flows down the drainage system. It's tough to share a drain and vent and still have everything work well - it's allowed in a single bathroom suite, but then, only in specific layouts, and never between floors. Newer toilets dump waste faster than the older ones - that big surge is likely causing the issues and is one reason the codes were changed long ago.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  6. #21
    DIY Senior Member lordmoosh's Avatar
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    I'd love to add a vent but there is no way to get it up to the attic to tie it into the vent. I think I might be able to add it when I add a garage since I will be able to go out side to the garage and up but that's not happening for a while.

    Thanks.

  7. #22
    DIY Senior Member lordmoosh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lordmoosh View Post
    I'd love to add a vent but there is no way to get it up to the attic to tie it into the vent. I think I might be able to add it when I add a garage since I will be able to go out side to the garage and up but that's not happening for a while.

    Thanks.
    I just wanted to report that the Carlyle II has been working fine. The water level still drops when the upper level toilet is flushed but the Carlyle II never completely loses its water. The Carlyle II still seems to flush fine even with the water level when its low. It is a pretty awesome toilet. Thanks all.

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