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Thread: Toto Unifit Installation, wax ring too thick?

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    DIY Senior Member lordmoosh's Avatar
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    Default Toto Unifit Installation, wax ring too thick?

    Hello all,

    I am installing a Toto Unifit adapter for a Carlyle II. The flange is installed on top of the finished floor. The Unifit appears to only have about 1" of space for a wax ring. The thinnest wax ring I could find at Home Depot (the standard size) looks to be about 2" thick. Is it ok if I trim the wax ring down to about 1.25"? The extra .25" would allow the Unifit to compress the ring onto the flange. Thanks.

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    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    A standard wax ring works fine in that situation.

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    DIY Senior Member wjcandee's Avatar
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    LM: You're overthinking it (which is way better than underthinking it).

    And you want the standard wax ring without the little plastic funnel thingy in it.

    Let us know how your install goes. We have a Carlyle II and love it.

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    DIY Senior Member lordmoosh's Avatar
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    Thanks, so I should just push the Unifit on the standard wax ring until it crushes it to the flange?

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    DIY Senior Member wjcandee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lordmoosh View Post
    Thanks, so I should just push the Unifit on the standard wax ring until it crushes it to the flange?
    Well, just like a toilet, you smush it down steadily until it's where it needs to be, then you put the washer on the bolt and spin the nut on (for each of the two bolts) until it's hand-tight, then 1/2 turn with the wrench. Don't wiggle the thing around because wax doesn't spring back, just smush it. (I hope I'm describing it sufficiently to make sense.)

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    DIY Senior Member lordmoosh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wjcandee View Post
    Well, just like a toilet, you smush it down steadily until it's where it needs to be, then you put the washer on the bolt and spin the nut on (for each of the two bolts) until it's hand-tight, then 1/2 turn with the wrench. Don't wiggle the thing around because wax doesn't spring back, just smush it. (I hope I'm describing it sufficiently to make sense.)
    Yes, thanks!

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    DIY Senior Member lordmoosh's Avatar
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    Smushing it down worked. Installation was a success. Carlyle II is installed. No leaks or odors detected so far. There was enough room for my 1/2" baseboards and enough room for me to curve shoe molding behind the toilet. The shoe molding appears to run behind the toilet as one piece even though it only goes an inch or so past the edges of the toilet base. There is about a half inch space behind the toilet to the wall. Thanks everyone.

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    DIY Senior Member wjcandee's Avatar
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    Congratulations!! Enjoy your Carlyle II!!

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    DIY Senior Member lordmoosh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wjcandee View Post
    Congratulations!! Enjoy your Carlyle II!!

    I am noticing one issue. The water level in the bowl seems to be decreasing over time after a flush. I have not connected the sink to the sink drain yet. There is a rag on top of the drain. Could this be causing the issue?

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    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    What do you mean by a rag on the drain?
    Wouldn't that be like a lamp wick, pulling water out?

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    DIY Senior Member lordmoosh's Avatar
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    I put a rag on the sink drain pipe so the sewer smell doesn't enter the bathroom (until I finish connecting the sink to the sink drain pipe).

    Anyway I was just working on connecting the sink to the sink drain pipe and someone flushed the toilet upstairs. I noticed the water in the new toilet moving around next to me in the downstairs toilet.

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    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    someone flushed the toilet upstairs. I noticed the water in the new toilet moving around next to me in the downstairs toilet.
    Kind of depends on how your home is plumbed.
    That's one reason I like to vent toilets, though some codes don't.

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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    If you have marginal venting in the house, pressure waves in the drain can cause the water in a toilet bowl to rock...same thing can happen if it's really windy. Because a toilet bowl is normally full to the brim, rocking it can cause some to slop over the weir and go down the drain. Since the toilet only knows if the tank is full, it won't refill the bowl. Also, after a flush, the bowl is usually slightly overfilled (not so much on the new ones), and it can take it a moment to settle after the fill valve stops, slightly lowering the level.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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    DIY Senior Member lordmoosh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jadnashua View Post
    If you have marginal venting in the house, pressure waves in the drain can cause the water in a toilet bowl to rock...same thing can happen if it's really windy. Because a toilet bowl is normally full to the brim, rocking it can cause some to slop over the weir and go down the drain. Since the toilet only knows if the tank is full, it won't refill the bowl. Also, after a flush, the bowl is usually slightly overfilled (not so much on the new ones), and it can take it a moment to settle after the fill valve stops, slightly lowering the level.
    I finished installing the bathroom sink plumbing and installed an AAV. Toilet still loses some water when the upstairs flushes.

    Could cleaning out the main vent pipe help?

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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    AAV's only let air in, it gets forced closed tighter if there's a pressure wave coming down the pipe.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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