Cycle stop valve problem

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Scup

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Thank you, for answering the question that Franklin never did answer! The only reason I wrote to them was to find out if their (fairly expensive) pump protection box would work with a SCV system. I suspected, like you stated, that the operating current would go all over over the place and likely fool the "pumptec" box; starting to think that it may have been likely that Franklin knew it too, which is why they did not respond to my question.

I really think I like the idea of having the power cut off to the pump and not coming back on automatically, if there should ever be only 20 psi. If the pressure should ever drop that low, something is very wrong somewhere, and I want to be in the loop to figure out what went wrong before placing the system back in operation for my family.

Sorry your email got bounced, but it was not done at my end. I suspect you might have a missed a character in the address of something, but no matter, as I have read your reply above, and will visit the link suggested.
 

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OK valveman, I went to the link suggested! Not sure if you would wish for me to discuss my needs on this form, or just shoot you an email since probably my needs are rather unique to me. In any event, being a moderator I would assume you could blank out anything I might say that is not proper.

I like the idea of the PK1A pside-kick kit with its stainless valve and fitting, since right now I am really pissed off at some of the premature PEX brass fittings failures happening ahead of my PH tank (This subject was discussed on another one of your forms).

The second reason is I have a rather cramped situation in that my basement that is finished and the only place left to put a pressurized water tank is under a stairwell that takes a right angle turn. Amptrol recommends for my situation their WX-205 tank (34 gallons), which would be impossible to fit in the space. The next size smaller will not fit in there either. With a shoe horn I might be able get their 26 gal tank in but would really not look forward to putting the tank in while being a contortionist.

I looked at your CS1PH1-2HP 230V and was impressed with its description but just a few minor things, and probably stupid items, I would like some clarification on.
1. Is there a cover that goes with this box? I am planning to install it under the stairwell where I can see it but would not like to have any 5 year old get curious and start to investigate say the sound of the clicking pressure switch. The space is open such that any tot that wishes to wander in could.

2. I am not questioning you about the superiority of your CS1PH1 over that of a low pressure cutoff switch should the well run dry, but my brass PEX fittings has given me other concerns since sooner later they will have to be replaced. I look at these fittings like they are small time bombs waiting to go off. I would like to know if I can get one of those low pressure cutoff switches with the CS1PH1 (extra charge is fine), or would this combination defeat something that I am not aware of.

The price of the CS1PH1 was lower than I had expected; about a third of the Pumptec Plus cost.

While my concerns might seem silly to you, I am an electrical engineer and have been with the navy for decades and I will always take precedence of a simple mechanical device providing catastrophic protection over an electronic device, especially where water in involved.

Look at it this way, in the event a 1" PEX fitting fails catastrophically, spews water all over the CS1PH1, I would want something mechanical in the loop that will positively shut down the flowing water even if the CS1PH1 was taken out.

Now you know why I probably did not want to air my concerns on this form because of the possibility of making myself look like an idiot, but in 1963 when I first started to work for the Navy, we lost the USS Thresher for the very reason described above.
 
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Valveman

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I like the idea of the PK1A pside-kick kit with its stainless valve and fitting, since right now I am really pissed off at some of the premature PEX brass fittings failures happening ahead of my PH tank (This subject was discussed on another one of your forms).

The second reason is I have a rather cramped situation in that my basement that is finished and the only place left to put a pressurized water tank is under a stairwell that takes a right angle turn. Amptrol recommends for my situation their WX-205 tank (34 gallons), which would be impossible to fit in the space. The next size smaller will not fit in there either. With a shoe horn I might be able get their 26 gal tank in but would really not look forward to putting the tank in while being a contortionist.

Yeah that is one good advantage of the Pside-Kick kit. It comes with the Stainless Steel CSV1A valve and fittings. It also only needs and comes with a 4.5 gallon size tank, which can fit most any place.

I looked at your CS1PH1-2HP 230V and was impressed with its description but just a few minor things, and probably stupid items, I would like some clarification on.

Is there a cover that goes with this box? I am planning to install it under the stairwell where I can see it but would not like to have any 5 year old get curious and start to investigate say the sound of the clicking pressure switch. The space is open such that any tot that wishes to wander in could.

Another good question. The Cycle Sensor needs to be installed in an enclosure. We can supply a little Nema 4X box with a clear lid if you like. That way you can see the display without opening the box. But you could put the Cycle Sensor in any electrical enclosure that you want.

I am not questioning you about the superiority of your CS1PH1 over that of a low pressure cutoff switch should the well run dry, but my brass PEX fittings has given me other concerns since sooner later they will have to be replaced. I look at these fittings like they are small time bombs waiting to go off. I would like to know if I can get one of those low pressure cutoff switches with the CS1PH1 (extra charge is fine), or would this combination defeat something that I am not aware of.

I use a regular Low Pressure Cut off switch in combination with the Cycle Sensor. I rely on the Cycle Sensor for the Dry Well and Rapid Cycle protection. I use the low pressure cut off switch strictly for protection from major line breaks. The only problem with this set up is if the leak is not major enough to cause a low pressure condition. If that is a concern there are leak detection systems that could also be incorporated with the Cycle Sensor and the Low pressure Cut Off Pressure Switch.
 

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I am not particularly worried about a so so leak as much as when one of my pex fittings failed completely. Good thing I was there to shut the pump off before really serious damage was done. I do have those battery operated water alarms scattered all over the place like just under the hot water tank's drip pan, Ph tank area, washing machine, existing water pressure tank and even one under the kitchen sink. So far the annoying beep, beep, beep, alarm sounding has been good enough to alert me of a potential disaster in the making. True, one has to be there to hear the alarm but so far that had been good enough. When the catastrophic PEX fitting let go, I was first alerted to a slow leak by the alarm, and when I touched the PEX fitting to see where the leak was coming from, the whole shebang let go. The fitting actually came completely apart yet the PEX piping was still secure to the broken/corroded brass fitting.

I will tell you this, you have some pretty sharp members on this form. They not only told me what the problem was, but gave me a link that described just how widespread this nonsense is of using too much zinc in brass fittings.

I do not think in a million years I would ever have liked to have been a plumber; work your butt off doing a job right, then get caught up in legal litigation because manufacturers supplied defective products. Even now, not all manufacturers have admitted to any wrong doing in this matter!

When I am ready, I will shoot you an email as to what I want, but I am planning to do this job in the springtime when I can head off to a local plumbing supply house should anything else be needed. Right now, the temperature outside is heading down to below zero, the wind blew my storm door off its hinges, and I am totally knocked out keeping my home warm during this vicious cycle of really nasty cold stormy weather. At least the Global Warming crowd has now finally shut up!
 

Craigpump

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You can wire those alarms to an automatic valve that will shut the water off if you ever get a leak.
 

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You can wire those alarms to an automatic valve that will shut the water off if you ever get a leak.

Never thought that was possible. These cheapo water alarm sensors that I have are barely more than toys at less than $15 a pop. The 9 volt battery lasts around 5 years before needing replacement. These alarms can actually float if there is a real flood and can keep on working. They are sensitive though, and do seem to be reliable. However, there is no way that I can see where one could wire anything to the toy like ones I have.

Still, I could see where one could have a decent water sensor designed to shut a valve off either by being directly wired or perhaps even via telemetry (RF signal) thus being wireless.

Craigpump, since all I am doing right now is trying to keep warm (successfully so far), would you have a web site that I could read up on the operation of these automatic valves that you mentioned?
 
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Craigpump

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The system I have seen used is available on Floodmaster.com, and is set up to shut down the water supply at the tank.
 

DonL

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The system I have seen used is available on Floodmaster.com, and is set up to shut down the water supply at the tank.


That does look like a nice system.

The pressure switch that I have has the lever to turn the pump off, without flipping the breaker.

Best just to turn it Off, unless a babysitter is home. They called that a wife in the day.

You really should kill power to the water heater too.


I use the floating leak detectors that send SOS in Morse code. And I hate it when one goes off. lol
 

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Boy, are you asking the wrong person! I turned the boring game off when the spread reached 28 points and took a nap! Realized I totally missed one of the greatest comebacks ever when I woke up and caught the last 30 seconds of the game.
 

Craigpump

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I went on a service call and got back at 1/2 time....thought for sure Indy was done for. Reminded me of the Bills game when Frank Reich brought them back from a zillion points down
 

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I looked up Floodmaster, and even though I have never heard of them, I just about guessed as to what they were about, including the wireless sensors. My cheapo system of placing battery operated sensor alarms all over the place is equivalent to their low end system without the shutoff solenoid valve. If one wanted to go full boat with their deluxe systems and place valves all over the place then the costs could rise to well over $1000 (see ZORO tools).

Some of the stuff they have out there just does not make much sense to me like a system to protect one's AC condensate over flow. Yes, that happened to me, so I rapped the condensate tank and pump with a broom stick to get it going, and when done I cleaned up the quart of spilled water on the floor, and the tank. There was less damage done than if my wife dropped a quart of milk.

I guess it probably matters to the particular individual as to just what a flood disaster really is. In my case, I have a walk out basement, with ceramic tiles on concrete, or just concrete in the utility room. The ceramic tile is more or less immune to water damage and who cares about the one or two small carpet mats for the dog to sleep on. I do not have finished wood flooring and the basement floor is sloped about two inches for its entire run toward the cove I am on.

For me, flood damage would be when Sandy went by as I was scared to beat all hell thinking the whole Atlantic Ocean would come flowing in. The water came up, but never even came close to touching me; yet other coves on both sides of me had massive flooding and the Stonington Commercial dock was underwater. Probably the Amtrak overpass which acted as a giant SCV, slowed the water flowing into the cove such that only the very low lying homes had damage.

I like Floodmaster's idea of wireless remote sensors, but wish the cut off would be a much simpler whole house shut off by simply having a relay to open that would curtail power to the well pump. Perhaps I have fifty or so gallons of water in my lines and water tank, which could flow out onto whatever, but to me that is a mess, not a catastrophe.

Going shopping and finding when I got back a couple of hours later, my well’s pump put 1000 gallons of water into my home is something else again. I know my silly dug well could do that even though it could also run dry it times of drought. When putting it in we had to lower the water level so we could set the well tiles in place. Using one of those massive gasoline driven pumps (I think it was diaphragm pump with a 4 or 6" hose) we pumped enough water out such that our road under water.

I am somewhat surprised though, that somebody had not come up with my suggestion which would be less costly, simpler, far easier to install, and probably would be acceptable even in California because nothing would come in contact with your potable water supply, as least when the water is in your pipes.
 
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Reach4

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I like Floodmaster's idea of wireless remote sensors, but wish the cut off would be a much simpler whole house shut off by simply having a relay to open that would curtail power to the well pump. Perhaps I have fifty or so gallons of water in my lines and water tank, which could flow out onto whatever, but to me that is a mess, not a catastrophe.

https://terrylove.com/forums/showthread.php?54319-Leak-Defender discusses a wired system. I expect is is expensive, since I cannot see a price.
 

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"If you need to ask the price, then you can not afford it, and most likely do not need it."

There never was a truer quote!
 
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