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Thread: Softener Drain

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member alexh's Avatar
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    Default Softener Drain

    Hi,

    As I posted earlier, I tried to use my outdoor 1.5" AC condensation drain but it only flowed about 2 ga/min. I tried to snake it and then was able to put a garden hose running full bore down the pipe and lots of gravel started coming up. So suffice it to say that I think that pipe drains to an underground gravel field or the pipe is broken.

    So my only other choice is the recessed style washer drain which is inside the house (I have to go through one wall). I have a high efficiency washer so the washer drain hose is small.
    The drain pipe opening is about 1.75" and there is about 6" clearance above the drain opening. I'm running 3/4" PVC for the softener drain (about a 30' run).
    Airgap International has an air gap made for recessed washer drains but they want $50 for it!
    Is there another solution for the air gap?

    Thanks

    http://www.airgap.com/
    Last edited by Terry; 07-04-2013 at 11:31 AM. Reason: Added Link

  2. #2
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    You can come off the standpipe, add a wye or tee and have a second standpipe for the softener drain. It needs a gap between the top of the drain and the end of the softener drain piping. That prevents back siphoning and keeps the potable water pure.

  3. #3
    DIY Junior Member alexh's Avatar
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    So hack open the box a little around the pipe, add a "Y", run washer hose into horiz inlet and position 3/4" PVC above vertical inlet using clamps?
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    Last edited by alexh; 07-04-2013 at 12:39 PM.

  4. #4
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    Well............I like the idea of letting the washer have the main shot, and I was thinking of the softener drain take the offset drain.
    I would leave the box alone, but cut the drywall below it and come out of the wall for that.
    But really, there are so many ways that will work. It's the fun and the art of plumbing figuring out "your" way within the codes.

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