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Thread: Shower Rise with no PEX

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member kos's Avatar
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    Default Shower Rise with no PEX

    Hi, I was hoping you all could help me track down an issue I am having with a shower conversion in our 1950 cottage. We have a tub in our upstairs master bedroom that I am converting into a shower/tub combo. I am working with the existing fixtures and have removed the shower plug and extended a 1/2 inch copper feed to the shower arm. I thought that I was all good to go but I am getting water out of both the shower and the diverter when both faucets are on. Individually it is okay and if I remove the diverter it is good. I have checked for blockage and seem to be good there also. If anyone could point me to anything else that I could be checking I would really appreciate it. Thank you for your time.

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    Apologies, not sure why this is posting horizontal.

  2. #2
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    There may be enough rust in the galvanized nipples and elbow that it's backing up to the showerhead. A typical shower valve has some internal flow limiting - with two valves that can probably open fully to the supply, it may never work right since you're overwhelming the outlet with more volume than it can accept. You might want to try changing those to brass or copper, but it probably won't fix it. You may need to add a shutoff valve on the riser. On a totally different tack, though, you really should consider replacing that old valve set with a new, code approved anti-scald valve. That was okay when used for the tub only, but does not meet code when you change things to a tub/shower.
    Last edited by jadnashua; 06-28-2013 at 07:43 PM.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Default valves

    The valve is a tub ONLY valve so it does not have a restrictor in it. That was NOT a shower opening, it was an alternate spout connection if the water lines came down from the ceiling. You need a "twin ell" to replace the spout's elbow. It will come with a 3/4 thread diverter spout.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

  4. #4
    DIY Junior Member kos's Avatar
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    Much appreciated guys. Always great info here. I am going to look at updating the valve.

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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    A twin-el has two, differently sized outlet ports - the bigger one goes to the spout and the smaller one to the showerhead. That difference in size plus the head (height) of the shower riser is usually enough to prevent water from rising in the pipe far enough to drip or spray out the head. IT still may not work for the valve you have, but at least you'd have a good shot.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  6. #6
    DIY Junior Member kos's Avatar
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    Thanks for the feedback. I think I will give the twin-el a shot and see what happens. If it doesn't work I will look at replacing the whole valve. Again, thanks for taking the time to point me in the right direction.

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