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Thread: Vanity Drain Move

  1. #1
    DIY Member diydude's Avatar
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    Default Vanity Drain Move

    I'm in the process of moving a drain in a non-load bearing wall for a vanity I'm installing. I've carefully staked out the new location of the drain to correspond with the square factory cutout on the back of the vanity. I've attached a few pictures:

    (1) Pic 1: Current location. New location is marked by "cross-hairs" on the cardboard attached to the wall studs.

    (2) Pic 2: Picture from a plumbing book I've been using.

    (3) Pic 3: Coupling I was going to use at one of the ABS pipe joints. The rest of the joints would utilize rigid ABS couplings.

    Does this seem like a good plan? I'll obviously have to pay attention to the location of other plumbing lines and electrical lines. This work will be inspected by the city when I'm finished.

    Thanks.
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  2. #2
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Default drain

    Picture #1. I see a horizontal line but no crosshairs. Picture #2 is overkill for your purposes. You just need a sanitary tee turned to the side and a pipe over to the location with an elbow on the end Picture #3, WRONG coupling.
    Last edited by hj; 06-27-2013 at 06:57 AM.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

  3. #3
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    Like hj mentions; Cut out the lav santee, and replace with one pointing toward the right, and then 90 out of the wall there.
    The correct couplings woud be a metal shield coupling.



    Last edited by Terry; 06-27-2013 at 09:55 AM.

  4. #4
    DIY Senior Member Hammerlane's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hj View Post
    You just need a sanitary tee turned to the side and a pipe over to the location with an elbow on the end.
    Fittings #1 and #7 below:
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  5. #5
    DIY Member diydude's Avatar
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    I've attached a better pic that includes lines drawn with a sharpie; the cross-hairs represent the center point inside the square drain opening on the back of the vanity. I also drew lines on the studs to represent the top and bottom of the vanity's square opening. Since I need to clear the shutoff valves to tee off to the right, how high can I go with a new tee?
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  6. #6
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Assuming the existing trap is properly vented, if you turned the fitting (it will require cutting and replacing) to run along the wall, the vent is close enough so that you can just run it horizontally and then turn it out of the wall where you need it. It should have a downward slope from where it turns out from the wall back to the new fitting.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  7. #7
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    The height of the tee is determined by the counter height.
    In the 70's, we roughed at 18" for a 30" counter
    Then at 20" for a 32"
    If you have a 36", then maybe 24"
    All of this has a little plus or minus, and depends on the depth of the bowl. An undermount may drop things a bit.

    If the copper is in the way, get rid of it, run the waste and then put the copper back around it.
    Waste has to grade down, water supply can go in circles if needed.

  8. #8
    DIY Member diydude's Avatar
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    I took some measurements. I've also included pics of the vanity. Also, I'm not sure if I'll need the flexible coupling, but Home Depot only had 1 1/2" to 1 1/4" couplings. Are the couplings with the ribbed shielding the same?:

    Bottom of sink from floor: 26 3/4"
    Counter height: 34 3/4"
    Bottom of current drain pipe from subfloor: approx 16 1/2"

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    Last edited by diydude; 06-27-2013 at 05:36 PM.

  9. #9
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    Home Depot has the 1.5" couplings.
    Roughing at 20" should be safe if there is not a drawer below.
    You can always add tail piece.

  10. #10
    DIY Member diydude's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Terry View Post
    Home Depot has the 1.5" couplings.
    Roughing at 20" should be safe if there is not a drawer below.
    You can always add tail piece.
    Ok, I'll make another trip to the Depot and take a closer look. There's a drawer below the sink, but it tops out at approx 13 1/2" from the floor. So, I should be in good shape. Thanks to everyone for your expertise. It's greatly appreciated.

  11. #11
    DIY Member diydude's Avatar
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    I found the shielded coupling at HD. One of the associates and I overlooked it the first time around.

    Ok, I have another question: Is there anything wrong with routing the pipe the way I'd originally planned? I forgot that there's some heavy gauge wiring in the wall that's in the path of a straight tee to the new drain location. Higher up the stud, the wiring is set back a bit more, allowing for a notch to be cut for the tee.
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    Last edited by diydude; 06-27-2013 at 08:41 PM.

  12. #12
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    I would just turn the santee to the right and use a single trap arm with a 90 looking out.
    There is not need to drill over two lines.

    What you have drawn with the vent at the top is too low, and it's not even needed.
    You showing a line below and a line above when all you need to do is go straight for it.

  13. #13
    DIY Member diydude's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Terry View Post
    I would just turn the santee to the right and use a single trap arm with a 90 looking out.
    There is not need to drill over two lines.

    What you have drawn with the vent at the top is too low, and it's not even needed.
    You showing a line below and a line above when all you need to do is go straight for it.
    The vent wouldn't be quite that low, but it doesn't sound like it would still be high enough; I read something about flood rim level a few minutes ago. Ok, I'll have to figure out how to work around the electrical line. I was thinking about moving the supply shutoffs and drain to all fit inside the 8-inch wide vanity factory cutout, which would allow me to remove the blocking in the wall for the hot water stub that's next to the electrical line and also avoid cutting into a vanity panel. The cutout might be too narrow to fit everything, though.
    Last edited by diydude; 06-28-2013 at 11:28 AM.

  14. #14
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    If you arm over, it's way below the electrical anyway.

    If you move over the entire plumbing, then you have to pass it on the way up.
    It's one santee, one medium 90 and two couplings and done!

    You can remove the existing blocking.
    And there is no rule as to where the water needs to be in the cabinet.
    I like to have them at least 4" apart so I can work with them. They could both be to one side or vertical.
    Last edited by Terry; 06-28-2013 at 11:47 AM.

  15. #15
    DIY Member diydude's Avatar
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    Ok, I'm going to be moving the drain later this week, but the pipe that the current drain tees off is right at the edge of the soleplate (about 1/4" from the edge). So, it appears that drilling a hole in the stud to the right is out of the question, since the hole needs to be 5/8"+ from the stud edge. Also, the coupling for the new 1 1/2" pipe tee will fall right on the wall stud when turned to the right to run the new line; if I notch the stud, I may violate code, as the coupling is 2 1/4" in diameter. Suggestions? Does this possibly require moving the whole vertical pipe to the new stud bay?
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    Last edited by diydude; 07-15-2013 at 10:11 PM.

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