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Thread: Ball Valve questions

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member John28's Avatar
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    Default Ball Valve questions

    While I'm in the vacinty of replumbing my washer, I'm also replacing 1 shutoff to an outside spigot, and 2 shutoffs to the laundry tub.

    1.The shutoff for the outside spigot is in a run between an elbow and Tee. Would it be acceptable to buy the threaded type ball valve, then also buy male threaded copper fittings, then sweat the sections of copper on each male fitting, then once cool, wrench on to each end of ball valve with Teflon tape applied. Where now I have a valve with two tail pieces and can sweat these at the elbow and tee, with no fear of overheating the teflon around the steel ball valve? I realize they have direct sweat ball valves, but is this a good way for a rookie to go? I have sweated copper pipes, but just don't have the expierence to control proper heat.

    2. Laundry tub feeds below, where I'm wanting 2 shutoffs also. I thought of the angle compression type valve,but just recently replaced one on my kitchen sink that would not shut off, so decided maybe staight ball valves here also? Main issue is I want good volume to this sink, and do not want to reduce from the shutoffs to 3/8in. If I used the treaded ball valves here, could I run an 1/2 nipple in the outlet and supply it with 1/2 stainless braided lines? Thanks
    Last edited by John28; 06-24-2013 at 04:23 PM.

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    Consultant cwhyu2's Avatar
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    You can get copper to copper ball valves no need for the adapters.

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    DIY Junior Member John28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cwhyu2 View Post
    You can get copper to copper ball valves no need for the adapters.
    I realize that, did you read the questions?
    Last edited by John28; 06-24-2013 at 05:59 PM.

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    DIY Senior Member asktom's Avatar
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    Sure, it will work. The down side is it will cost more money and introduces more places to leak.

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    DIY Junior Member John28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by asktom View Post
    Sure, it will work. The down side is it will cost more money and introduces more places to leak.

    The price of a couple fittings is nill. My thinking was, if this could keep a novice sweater from destroying the valve, I'd actually save money? And I don't think there'd be much concern of a threaded joint that's wrenched leaking?

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    DIY Senior Member speede541's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by John28 View Post
    The price of a couple fittings is nill. My thinking was, if this could keep a novice sweater from destroying the valve, I'd actually save money? And I don't think there'd be much concern of a threaded joint that's wrenched leaking?
    From one novice sweater to another, I've popped a seal on one (3/4" and using mapp gas), and had a pinhole leak in another (1/2" -- and probably because I was being too cautious i.e. nervous in a tight space). But I've sweated maybe a dozen others without a problem.

    Wet rag wrapped around the open ball valve, apply the flame mostly to the pipe not the valve, and apply the heat just long enough to get the solder flowing. I'm much more comfortable with that in my wall vs. risking a dripping threaded connection. Also don't cut your pipe to length until after you sweat the connection to there's more material to wick the heat away from the valve body.

    Even if you blow one, it's probably worth the expense just to be comfortable with the process and see that it's not difficult.

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    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    I don't think there'd be much concern of a threaded joint that's wrenched leaking?
    That's not how people that do this for a living think.
    The fewer fittings the better. Especially for a novice.

    Buy the sweat ball valve, and solder it away from the wall. You may want to remove the handle while you are at it, and replace it after it has been soldered.
    The brass will need to be heated, as well as the pipe.
    When that is done, Then bring it over to the wall and finish installing. Either 90's our couplings.

    I like compression stops at the wall for a washer or laundry tray.
    The only difference between 3/8" and 1/2" braided supplies are the nuts on the end. So pick your nut sizing and buy the shutoff to match.

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    DIY Junior Member John28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Terry View Post
    I like compression stops at the wall for a washer or laundry tray.
    The only difference between 3/8" and 1/2" braided supplies are the nuts on the end. So pick your nut sizing and buy the shutoff to match.
    Do you know who makes the compression 1/4 turn stainless ball valve and stainless stem type? I thought they exist, but not sure? I just know I had the compression type for the kitchen shut offs, and the one would not shut off, they had teflon stems and were regular shut offs, just don't want these type again.

    And for compression type fittings, are they only rated for type M copper line?

    And for braided flex lines I realize there are 3/8 and 1/2 connections, but thought maybe some 1/2 might have a bigger I.D. within the line for better volume? Not sure though? Thanks
    Last edited by John28; 06-25-2013 at 09:48 AM.

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