Out of curiosity, how did you pick the Solo-110?
I ask because the min-fire output on that sucker could handle the heat load on my ~2400' not-so-insulated house at Long Island's ~ +15F 99% outside design temp, and would be ridiculously oversized (and short-cycling) on my smaller zones. The -60 is a better match for the loads for the vast majority of existing homes on L.I., and at high fire it could heat my house at 90-100F below zero (!), temps not seen on Long Island since the last ice age.
Oversizing a mod-con boiler is a common mistake (even from licensed HVAC installers) and leads to paying too much up front, lower average efficiency, and short-cycling the thing to higher maintenance &/or an early grave. Before you get too far along the installation, let's first make sure it's even the right size boiler.
Now, before you've turned on the power or fired up the burner is the right (and cheapest) time to make any corrections, and I'm telling you straight out, the -110 is too big for almost any average sized house in your area, even oversized for some bigger houses, and if you have it broken up into zones it can be a real PITA to hack the system into working properly with an oversized boiler.
All good heating system designs start with a careful room-by-room heat load calculation, but unless you're planning on tweaking the radiation, let's simplify it by doing the whole-house load numbers, and the zone-by-zone radiation numbers to see if the -110 would run reasonably, or if you need to down size.
Start with the approximate size (square footage of conditoined area) of the house, exterior wall area & nsulation type/mounts, attic area and window type/amount, window type & total area, door area, and total square footage of the house.
Foundation insulation (Y/N)?
Then how many zones, and how much radiation (and type) per zone?
If you have a heating fuel use history on the place from a prior boiler, pick a mid-winter bill, note the meter-reading dates, and give us your zip code (for degree-day weather history), and the amount of fuel used in that time period. Then give us the BTU-in and DOE BTU out of the prior boiler. This kind of calculation can be more precise than doing it by the building parameters, or would at least put a realistic hard upper bound on what your whole house heat load is.