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Thread: Preparing durock for spray- on texture

  1. #1
    DIY Member SH140's Avatar
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    Default Preparing durock for spray- on texture

    The durock has been installed (rough side out) in shower to the ceiling with the original intention of tiling up to the ceiling. As an afterthought, I may not go up that far.

    My question is how to prepare the durock ABOVE the tile line before I spray texture throughout the walls & ceiling. Should I skim coat it with sheetrock mud or use thinset? Also, I assume that it's not a good idea to apply thinset & tile over sheetrock mud, is that correct?

    Oh, I almost forgot...what's best to use, to remove glue residue after removing label from durock?

    Thanks...
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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    A common type of mud comes in a bucket, and that stuff will soften if it gets wet, so no, it's not a great idea to use it in an area that may get damp or wet (thinset IS mixed with water, and that could affect the bond). You can get SETTING drywall mud, and once cured, it does not soften. I don't think you really need to do anything to the Durock prior to applying texture. I'd carefully read the manufacturer's instructions first, though, to verify.
    Jim DeBruycker
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    ACO Shower Drain Sales johnfrwhipple's Avatar
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    I'd most likely flat trowel it with thin-set - something like Laticrete 254, Ardex S14, Kerabond Keralastic and let that set up overnight. Then use stucco mesh and joint compound drywall mud. The modified thinset will bite better to the backerboard and the joint compound should bit over the flat trowelled backer board.

    Rub the glue residue with the back side of a brick. It will come right off.

    JW


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    Always get construction advice double checked by your local city hall. Flood Test Every Shower - Every Time.

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    DIY Member SH140's Avatar
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    Thanks Jim, even though it will be up near the ceiling, that's kinda what I was thinking about the mud too. I will use the Hydroban all the way to ceiling, and will see if that smooths out the roughness of the durock any. If not, maybe I can skim coat with thinset to knock off the rough finish before texturing. Do you think that is possible with thinset and still get it fairly smooth? I don't want to apply the texturing real thick, only enough to get the effect. Maybe the Hydroban should go on after the skim coat, but before the texture??

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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    You have to consider the color and how much texturing you're going to put on plus if it's going to get a coat of paint or not. But, texture should adhere. Now, trying to get things flat to start out is possible, but harder. A plasterer makes it look easy, but it's not! Thinset isn't designed as a finish coat and can be moderately grainy texture, depending on which one you use. A setting drywall compound might work, but not one from a bucket. WOrking time is short and sanding, if it comes to that, is much harder, but possible. Personally, I've not had good luck with texturing - your results may differ. The people that do it every day can get a nice even (or random, if that's what you want) look...me, it looks patched.
    Jim DeBruycker
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    DIY Member SH140's Avatar
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    The method of texturing (if I'm using the correct term) is with what looks similar to a compressor driven paint gun with a hopper on top that holds the mud and spits it onto the wall, ceiling, etc. After that a coat or two of enamel paint.
    As far as if this would be a "dry" area? It would be 6 1/2 to 7 feet from the floor, so I guess it would be relatively dry, just a little splashing maybe.

    I'll be using Hydroban on the walls, I assume that I'd want to apply that directly to durock before anything else?

    My plan is to apply Hydroban (from tub to ceiling) and tile the walls and then deal with whatever area is left between tiles and the ceiling. Does that sound like a good approach?
    Last edited by SH140; 06-17-2013 at 08:42 PM.

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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    sounds good to me. Normally, while maybe not always true, areas above the showerhead is considered 'dry'. It certainly can get some spray, but it's indirect, and not generally a lot.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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    ACO Shower Drain Sales johnfrwhipple's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SH140 View Post
    The method of texturing (if I'm using the correct term) is with what looks similar to a compressor driven paint gun with a hopper on top that holds the mud and spits it onto the wall, ceiling, etc. After that a coat or two of enamel paint.
    As far as if this would be a "dry" area? It would be 6 1/2 to 7 feet from the floor, so I guess it would be relatively dry, just a little splashing maybe.

    I'll be using Hydroban on the walls, I assume that I'd want to apply that directly to durock before anything else?

    My plan is to apply Hydroban (from tub to ceiling) and tile the walls and then deal with whatever area is left between tiles and the ceiling. Does that sound like a good approach?
    I'd do it the way I mention above and if your spraying with a hopper I'd first sand and prime the area to be sprayed.

    I would also practice your spray technique.

    You need to adjust four things to get the pattern right.

    One the pressure of the tank
    Two the nossel position
    three the feed rate.
    And the mix consistancy


    jfrwhipple@gmail.com - www-no-curb.com - 604 506 6792

    Always get construction advice double checked by your local city hall. Flood Test Every Shower - Every Time.

  9. #9
    ACO Shower Drain Sales johnfrwhipple's Avatar
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    Default Drywall Repair



    We damaged the back side of this shower niche doing demolition. We hit the breaks and then started the repair process.



    We left the old lath in place and then flat trowelled it with Joint Compound.



    Over the damaged waterproofing we installed two coats of Ardex 8+9. Just after the second coat and while wet I pressed in some stucco mesh.

    Over this we infilled the entire area with Concrete Fill from Synko (no concrete!) and then covered the entire area again with joint compound and some of the mesh tape from Fiba Fuse.


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    Always get construction advice double checked by your local city hall. Flood Test Every Shower - Every Time.

  10. #10
    ACO Shower Drain Sales johnfrwhipple's Avatar
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    Lapping layers of Fiba Fuse. Setting them with Joint Compound.



    At this point we treated the area as back to square one and proceed to float out the drywall mud over the entire wall in our quest for a level five drywall finish.

    We do a lot of drywall work here in Vancouver - I'd rethink your game plan and study up more on the spray texture process.


    jfrwhipple@gmail.com - www-no-curb.com - 604 506 6792

    Always get construction advice double checked by your local city hall. Flood Test Every Shower - Every Time.

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    DIY Member SH140's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the feedback....As far as the texturing, I'll be OK with that. I've already done 1/2 the rooms in the house. They've all got that "popcorn" texture on the ceilings that was so popular in the 70's. As we re-do a room, that crap gets removed and replaced.

  12. #12
    ACO Shower Drain Sales johnfrwhipple's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SH140 View Post
    Thanks for all the feedback....As far as the texturing, I'll be OK with that. I've already done 1/2 the rooms in the house. They've all got that "popcorn" texture on the ceilings that was so popular in the 70's. As we re-do a room, that crap gets removed and replaced.
    You are going to need to address your seams and corners like they where regualr drywall. Make sure you use a paper tape or mesh tape on these.

    I'd go like I mentioned above with a thin-set flat trowel and then swith to drywall products.

    USe a flat brick as a sanding pad for the thin-set before using drywall compounds.


    Don't get sand and rock dust in your drywall products. Once you have skimmed out the backer board junk that mud so the bulk stays good. If you check out my profile online (Houzz) you will see I'm not stranger to drywall over cement board. This is one of our secret measures for our fireplace builds where we have been doing this approach coming on ten years now.

    JW
    Last edited by johnfrwhipple; 06-18-2013 at 08:19 AM.


    jfrwhipple@gmail.com - www-no-curb.com - 604 506 6792

    Always get construction advice double checked by your local city hall. Flood Test Every Shower - Every Time.

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