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Thread: Shallow well jet pump new install pressure switch problem

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member Emmett03's Avatar
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    Default Shallow well jet pump new install pressure switch problem

    Hey guys thanks for the help. I just installed a 1HP Goulds Shallow Well jet pump in my pool pump house. I'm pumping from a pond with a foot valve in a pea rock filter. The pond is about 400 feet from the pump, run is 1.25" poly pipe. The pressure side is connected to 1" PVC run to a 19 gallon flotech pressure tank then out to the sprinkler system and some hose bibs. The pressure switch is a 30/50 which came installed on the pump. Tank has 28 psi. The system works great, good pressure, good volume. Problem is when the pressue hits the high cut off and turns off pressure goes down to 30 and the pump turns back on again the pressure switch just slaps, causing the pump to cycle very fast. If I increase the load(turn on more hoses) it will do it less, still slaps a few times but stops and runs normally after a few seconds. If I have just one hose on it will continue to slap till I turn off the breaker. Originally I had it installed without a check valve between the pump and pressure tank, I installed one hoping that would fix it but it made it worse. Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated. EmmettName:  pump1.jpg
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    Last edited by Emmett03; 06-15-2013 at 04:31 PM.

  2. #2
    Well Drilling/Service justwater's Avatar
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    cant have that check valve between the pump and tank.. If using a foot valve, that should be the only check valve u need.
    Last edited by justwater; 06-15-2013 at 09:57 PM.

  3. #3
    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
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    You have too much piping between the pump and the tank for how the pressure switch is located. Use a proper tank Tee and connect the sense line at the Tee rather than at the pump.

    Also, calibrate your air gauge to your water gauge. I'm betting they are reading different and that you have too much precharge on the tank.

    You should try raising the pressure setting on the switch to take advantage of the pump curve so as to not have it reach cutoff as often. Better for the pump to run than to cycle.

  4. #4
    Well Drilling/Service justwater's Avatar
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    u dont need a "tank tee", I have never used one ever. Also that tank really isn't too far from pump, should be fine so long as u do as LL said and make sure ur pressure is adjusted correctly. just remove the check and raise ur cutin pressure.

  5. #5
    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by justwater View Post
    u dont need a "tank tee"...
    The problem with your thinking is that everything needs to be in tip-top shape for it to work right. Fine for you and I where we know what the working parameters need to be but for your average Joe that wants to just set-and-forget it, as the parms drift, the unit will start to cycle itself to death.

    I prefer to build in a safety margin. Maybe you like to build in repeat business.

  6. #6
    Well Drilling/Service justwater's Avatar
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    wow.. yea u nailed it, my drilling business is based on returning to menial service jobs. go have a drink from ur "mud well" and quit overcomplicating the easiest setup in water.

    after addressing the check valve and precharge/switch settings.. the only thing that should cause that pump to start cycling excessively later is the flotec tank. although maybe I should start using them so I can get that repeat business

  7. #7
    In the Trades Texas Wellman's Avatar
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    Yeah, been doing this a long time myself and never used a "tank tee" either. You don't need to relocate the sensing line, but you do need to remove that extra check valve. Seen hundreds of set-ups just like yours, that is not too much pipe between the pump and tank.

  8. #8
    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Emmett03 View Post
    Originally I had it installed without a check valve between the pump and pressure tank, I installed one hoping that would fix it but it made it worse.
    If you took more time to read what the OP did and less time beating up a DIY'er (me) you might notice that the problem preceded the checkvalve. Now, I'm confident that the biggest issue is that there is too much precharge on the tank, but resistance between the outlet and the tank (length of run and elbows) as well as where the sense line is connected all factor in the switch bouncing.

    Bladders can leak a little, jacking up the precharge over time, and pressure switch setting can drift over time as well leaving the tank completely empty at start so all I suggested was to mitigate all factors to increase the margin.

  9. #9
    DIY Senior Member craigpump's Avatar
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    I've seen 15' between the pump and tank and the switch didn't bounce, so I doubt that's the problem.

    I do agree that getting rid of that inline check valve will solve the issue.

    A bladder shouldn't leak until it gets ready to suffer a catastrophic failure, if it does leak the tank wasn't any good to begin with.

  10. #10
    Moderator valveman's Avatar
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    I read posts fast as well. The longer they are the faster I read, and sometimes I miss something, sorry. Big problems are easy to find. When everybody is trying to help and nobody has put their finger on the problem, it is usually something very simple that is being missed. I don’t think anyone is trying to build in repeat business.

    I can’t see the check on the inlet side. If that is a swing check or maybe a bad PVC check, it could be causing this problem.

  11. #11
    DIY Junior Member Emmett03's Avatar
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    Thank you all for your responses, I changed the setup and it fixed the problem. All is well again. I have a few more questions to complete the setup. Is a blow off valve really necessary on the tank t, pump is outside in a pump house. Also, I have that check valve now that I'm not using, I've seen images where its connected after the tank t, would this be beneficial to me in any way. Thanks for your help.

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  12. #12
    Moderator valveman's Avatar
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    Looks good. A blow off valve won't do much good with a jet pump, as that pump won't build enough pressure to make it blow off. Save the extra check valve for something else, you don't need it.

  13. #13
    In the Trades Texas Wellman's Avatar
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    I still don't see where your plumbing situation was causing the pump to bounce the switch. I bet there was/is a restriction in the tank inlet somewhere. You also could have added a riser somewhere on the pump discharge to solve the problem but you only treated the symptoms, not the problem.

    Valveman is right, you really don't need the pop-off or checkvalve, although that 1-HP can put out a fair amount of pressure if the water level is high.

  14. #14
    Moderator valveman's Avatar
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    The max pressure from a J10S is 74 PSI. So with a 40/60 pressure switch, if you could find a pop off valve to set at 70 PSI, it could give you some protection if the pressure switch fails to open.

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