Toto Drake toilet product review

**Runs with bison** · 01-07-2010, 06:48 PM

Originally Posted by Presto

I installed 2 Drake CST744SG's barely a year ago and really like them. A couple of problems though. The chrome on flush knobs are bubbling and the plastic "spud" that goes through the tank holding the flush knob on one of them has broken where the nut threads on. I just got done speaking to Toto tech and they are sending the parts, as a courtesy! Not covered under warranty. I would expect these items to have a better design life for the money!

Presto, has anyone used any cleaning materials that might have caused the bubbling (as in anything other than simple soap and hot water?) If so, what material was it so that I can avoid the problem? Thanks!

**TSund** · 01-08-2010, 03:20 AM

Hello,

We installed an Eco-drake in our lake house and loved it so much that we decided to replace our home's masterbath toilet with one. That toilet had frequent cloggin problems, remedied with a plunger.

My dad installed the toilet, and noted that the the drain is put on a Y. He said that is due to mismeasurement by contractor?

I don't know if this is the cause of the problem, but I need to do something. We still get frequent clogs. I need a recommendation. Will raising toilet up help? Would the flapper modification be the same as replacing with a regular Drake? If I"m to replace another toilet in the house on the 2nd floorm should I switch this one with a more powerful flush? Looking for most cost effiecient way to do this, but WANT the problem solved.

I so appreciate your help. I am bummed about this. I guess I wouldn't have put in the smaller eco-drake if I"d known about the Y in the drain.

THanks

TRS

**Terry** · 01-08-2010, 08:50 AM

I would pull the bowl and make sure there is nothing blocking the exit.

The directions on the box of wax, show the wax stuck to the "bowl".
Plumbers put the wax on the "floor" and then drop the bowl on that.

Also, some horn wax rings will flatten out on some flanges.
There is a high rise in Bellevue, where the entire building was plumbed with Sterling toilets and the small closet flanges.
We're changing out the building bathroom by bathroom with Toto toilets it seems. And not using the horned wax there.

**Reader Review** · 01-23-2010, 09:50 AM

Dear Terry.....I've personally installed a dozen Toto Drake 1.6 gpf toilets in my rentals and for family. They are great low flow toilets that really work as you have indicated.

I've come across a new Toto Eco Drake 1.28 gpf with a E-max flush system.......Do you have any thoughts or experience on this toilet?

Thanks/Rick

**Reader Review** · 01-23-2010, 10:00 AM

The toilet is working great. Thanks!

Jodie
Redmond WA

**Reader Review** · 01-23-2010, 10:16 AM

We bought a 1.6 gpf Toto from you a few years ago. It works very well. We are now considering getting another Toto. I see there are now some 1.28 gpf totos on the market: the CST 743 and 744.

Do these 1.28 gpf totos flush as well as the 1.6?

Thanks

Don T
Olympia

**Reader Review** · 01-23-2010, 10:46 AM

Terry,
Thanks for the great work! Your man, I apologize I forgot his name, was truly great and quite the character!
John

**Reader Review** · 01-23-2010, 11:28 AM

Hi Terry,

A number of years ago, you directed me to buy a Toto toilet for one of our other bathrooms. I heeded your recommendation and purchased, and installed, a Toto Drake elongated-bowl and have been very pleased. It's performed extremely well since for almost 8 years.

Don A
Urbana, IL

**jlg** · 02-07-2010, 07:11 PM

Hey folks, I just installed a Toto Drake, but I'm not sure all is well. The tank seems to move quite a bit forward/backward if I push on it. How solid should the tank be with the toilet? Should it move at all??
I'm pretty sure I DON'T have the back point of contact made (but can't really see it), but I have the bolts snugged down pretty tight, and the tank is level. I'm not sure how hard I can tighten down the bolts that mounts the tank to the bowl without cracking anything, but I'm just not sure
it's mounted correctly. I have it filled with water, and no leaking, but I'm not comfortable that it is correctly mounted.

Any help appreciated!

**jadnashua** · 02-07-2010, 08:24 PM

You can keep tightening until it is just shy of tight. A half turn, side-to-side evenly. The porcelain doesn't compress, so you don't want to try to get it so tight there's any tension, or you'll crack it, but as long as you can still move it slightly, it's not too tight. I like to put a piece of paper in between, and stop when it starts to get tight but I can still pull it out without tearing. On most, there's a little stub sticking out, and if you put the paper between the bowl and that stub or leg, you'll have a good measure.

**david1701smith** · 02-24-2010, 12:58 PM

Will the TOTO Drake flush better than a higher flow 1988 toilet ( cheap American Standard, I think)?
My upstairs toilet has never flushed as good as my isentical downstairs toilet. Would reducing the 3"
drain just below the toilet to 2 & 1/2" make it flush better by improving the siphoning power?
Thanks

**jadnashua** · 02-24-2010, 01:16 PM

The comparison between many toilets and a Drake is dramatic...yes, the Drake will flush better. No, you cannot change the drain..it must remain at least 3". The flushing ability of the toilet is 99% determined by the design and quality of construction. As long as the drain pipe is not clogged, it should work.

**jacksan** · 03-02-2010, 04:45 PM

Was all ready to get the AS Champion 4 or Kohler Cimarron then I came to this site. After some research it looked like I should also look at the Toto Drake. Terry's steadfast convition that the Toto had a better design helped me make up my mind.

We bought the Drake (round, 2-piece, 1.6gpf, non-ADA, beige) 2 months ago and have not looked back.

A few comments:
It looks and works great ... i guess we still have a plunger, somewhere!

I reached my fingers inside the trapway at the bowl and drain openings and it was rough like sandpaper, I think they should make it smoother. I was afraid it would grab passing TP so I took some 400 grit sandpaper and carefully smoothed out some of the burrs at the entrance and exit.

This acts like a 2-mode flush unit but that isn't mentioned anywhere. A quick flush and you barely get more than a glurp, I'm baffled it clears as good as it does! You can hold the handle down for 2 seconds and get the full flush. Not sure which of these flush modes the 1.6gpf rating falls into.?
--> Can you swap out the flapper, this one has a hole in it so it closes very quickly, so you don't have to hold the handle down so long (I have well water and a septic tank so water conservation is lower on my list)?

Bowl rinse is adequate but nothing like the old days 5gpf tornado rinse that went on forever.

P.S. when is someone going make an elongated plunger and get rich?!!!

**SteveW** · 03-02-2010, 06:16 PM

1. Terry has pointed out that the "rough" trapway may be intentional. A smooth trapway is more likely to cause wet wipes to adhere to the sides of the trapway, which in turn could cause a clog. Having a less smooth trapway prevents flat sheets, like wet wipes, from adhering, and so may actually make the toilet less likely to clog.

2. Your toilet is not really intended to be a 2-mode unit. The gpf rating is for a flush which is done as Toto intended - push the lever down all the way and let go. Yes, you can hold the handle down longer, and you get a higher gpf.

**Gary Swart** · 03-02-2010, 07:45 PM

There is "extra" water in the tank is for three reasons. Yes, you can hold the handle down and drain it, but in reality, it is seldom necessary. The other reason is the added water height provides more pressure to the flush. One other possible benefit is that if you live where condensation on the outside of the tank is a problem, since only half of the tank is used per flush, the incoming cold water mixes with the remaining water which is at room temperature and thus eliminates most, if not all, of the condensation problem.