custom shower

Building a custom steam shower with rainfall shower head, hand shower, and 6 body sprays. 3/4" pex supply to both hot and cold on 3/4" thermostatic valve and 3/4" line to the rainfall shower head as well. All valves will be Jaclo. Rainfall shower valve will be 3/4" the body spray jets and hand shower will be 1/2" volume valves
But a couple of questions though
1. For the 6 body sprays (1/2" each) is using a 6 port manifold fine or do I need a pressure balance loop?
2. Was thinking to use a separate volume control for each option (hand shower, body spray jets, and rainfall shower head) after the thermostatic valve instead of a diverter valve giving me more control will this be fine? or should I use a diverter valve? (if using a diverter valve of course i would have to have 1 volume control to turn the system on and off) but if no diverter valve then the separate volume controls would control the system individually.


thanks

look at the spec sheet and add up the volume for each outlet that will be on at the same time. Then compare the volume needed with the valves you've chosen to see if you'll have the capacity. FWIW, you'll need a significant WH or a drain heat recovery system or both to heat the required water.

thanks for the reply tank less water heater should be fine of course I won't be able to have all options on at once not enough supply volume for that.
The thermostatic valve is rated at 15 GPM waiting on a reply from the manufacturer on the rating for each body spray. Will probably split them into left and right (3 each) and control each side separately instead of 6 port manifold use 2 separate 3 port manifolds. But not sure how well manifolds control pressure and volume compared to a pressure loop or if they are the same.

thanks again for the reply John
I figured the pressure loop is the standard was more curious on how the manifolds compared to them in performance?
or even use a manifold with 3/4" inlet and outlet (with three 1/2" outlets) in a loop. such as the Sioux Chief 672XV0499 but maybe that is just way overkill
nice thing is I put all the plumbing backing into a bedroom closet wall so easy to access in the future

p.s. beautiful shower I saw it when you posted it a while back a lot of work

will do now the pressure is on! only have the cement board up have not even picked out the tile yet.
one final question I am using kerdi system and am putting in a large 10mm glass wall and door 7' wide and 9' high if I use the kerdi curb will it support the weight or will it compress over time?
Should I build a wood curb covered in cement board (wrapped in membrane and tiled) instead?
Worried about cracking tiles underneath the glass and overall glass stability.
(doing a floor to ceiling glass wall because it is a steam shower and like the look)

Schluter says that once you cover the foam with Kerdi and the thinset and it has cured, it will support 500#/sqin...so, I do not think you'll have an issue. The membrane, thinset and tile spread the load out and make it quite robust. Their curb can be cut in length and height, but should not be cut in width. You could use Kerdiboard screwed into 2x material, then you only need to band the joints and screw penetrations plus, you can make it any size you wish. Bricks, or pavers are great over a slab and price is decent (buy you may need to add labor)...if their preformed curb fits your needs, it is a lot faster and nice and straight and flat.

thanks for all the great info!

sill

The problem with a wood framed sill, is that if any moisture reaches it, it will expand and crack the tile or grout.

Great read John and interesting comments at the bottom.
funny coincidence regarding the comment on pressure treated wood near the bottom I was initially going to use pressure treated 2/4 coated with blue wood protection and then cement board and membrane on it for both the curb and bench. I realize we should not use pressure treated wood inside the house but it would have been relatively small amount and completely sealed.
but after reading this forum and the article I think I will go with the Kerdi curb and Kerdi bench for ease of the install. will consider the brick but I already have the curb that came with the kerdi kit.

love the curb-less shower look but would have to raise the bathroom floor tile to much and the transition from bathroom floor to the hallway carpet would be to much. I wish I would have thought about that option when I had ripped all the concrete out to move the shower drain. but have already relaid the concrete floor.
also concerned about a curb-less shower, this is in the basement and if the drain ever backed up (of course we have back flow valves) better to just put the standard curb in to contain the waste water.

KDAT - Kiln Dried After Treatment, if you were going to go with wood, is MUCH more stable, at least in the first few months, than the stuff that is not dried. While the 'normal' treated stuff dries out, it tends to warp, twist, and is not very stable. You're better off with something inorganic for the kerb, though.