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Thread: Building a P-trap

  1. #1
    DIY Member SH140's Avatar
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    Default Building a P-trap

    Getting ready to install plumbing for new tub install, and wanted to know ahead of time if there are any limitations when installing the p-trap. I know that the standard trap is a fairly tight radius. If need be, could a trap be made with two 90o elbows with a straight connecting pipe at the bottom ? if so how long can connecting pipe be so that the trap still functions correctly? (1", 3", 12" ???) If not, is it because the trap operates more efficiently with a tight turn in a shorter length?

    Also, where there will be no access to the plumbing after the tub goes in, is it better to use only glued joints in the ABS plumbing?

    Thanks

  2. #2
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    A longer run would be more inclined to gunk up.
    Glue joints are always better then slip joint where there is no access. In fact it's now a requirement.

    I've made traps using street medium 90 bends.

  3. #3
    DIY Member SH140's Avatar
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    I kinda thought that was the reason. Thanks

    I was wondering...does plastic pipe cement ever go bad? If it's still in a liquid state, is it still good to use. Mine is a few years old, but still looks OK.

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    Plumber jimbo's Avatar
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    If the can has ever been opened, it is questionable. The cement should be very "liquidy". Any signs of gel-like texure is a no-go.

  5. #5
    DIY Member SH140's Avatar
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    Thanks for the tip. Because the plumbing won't be accessible afterwards, I bought a new can. Better safe than sorry.

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