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Thread: Toto skirted toilets and existing waterline location

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member jsnc's Avatar
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    Default Toto skirted toilets and existing waterline location

    We are planning to replace our old toilets and when I was taking measurements, discovered that the waterline is 6" from the existing toilet centerline and 4 1/2" above finished floor. We would like to install a skirted toilet, but when looking at the information on the Carlyle II for example, the suggested dimensions are 8" from CL and 6" AFF. From looking at the cut sheets, it appears this is going to be an issue. Is this a typical water rough-in on all the skirted versions that will force me into a non-skirted version or are there some that are more "forgiving"? Not sure I want to spend a few hundred to relocate waterlines right now.

    Thanks in advance for the replies.

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    DIY Senior Member wjcandee's Avatar
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    I'm running out the door, so I don't have time to look, but Terry has a comprehensive post on here that defines for which skirted toilet what the minimum dimensions are that you need. I'm thinking 5.5" off centerline on most, but don't hold me to it. (My memory is too often flawed.) You may well be just fine, so have a look around the site and see if you can't pull it up. It would be worth it.

    We have a Carlyle II and I can tell you for sure that it doesn't need 8". Remember, that dimension is to go from the wall straight up to the tank. We all use flexible hoses now...

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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    The drawing dimensions are 'ideal' locations (for both looks and function), and I'm pretty sure closer in will work. There are right-angle stops that can make it work, or it's not that hard to move it during remodeling unless it is a tiled surface and you're not planning to update that. You can get an idea if you look at the spec sheet - they are to scale, plus it's been asked and answered more than once - a search should find it pretty quickly.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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    DIY Junior Member jsnc's Avatar
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    I'll look for that information. Thanks.

    From looking at the drawings, if the toilet is 11 13/16" wide, that gives me about 5 3/8 to the edge of the skirt, which I don't think will give me enough room to turn the water on/off. I'll look and see if the others require less clearance.

    Thanks.

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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    The skirt doesn't go to the wall, so in that case, changing the valve to a right-angle one (Dahl makes one that is nice for this purpose), you'd probably be fine. The skirt is not straight up and down, so it depends on where you look in height - it has curves to it. So, scale it up from the floor as well.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    The Carlyle II needs 6" center to center for the shutoff valve if it's on the wall.

    TOTO likes 8", but 6" works.

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