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Thread: pumptec problem

  1. #16
    DIY Member Timbuktu's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL43 View Post
    I thought I was losing my mind (probably am anyway), but then I realized you started another thread, same topic, but named different. your other thread was named "I picked up a used pumptec that looks good. $10 buck was worth the gamble?? HHHHmmmmm And yes, as Don says, you need to measure the current with an "Amprobe" (brand name) or other clamp on meter.You can use an inline amp meter if you have one and the skills to use it, but I think, with all due respect at this point, you may not.

    Ok,Ill post my results today sunday 26th here

    here's every excrucitiating detail incase any are significant.

    yesterday evening i depressed the reset on the franklin control box and i turned all power off to the well.
    This morning I turned on the main power and the control box breaker-button didnt trip ,as it has been lately,and allowed the pump to pump water its usual 16 min .(Low producing well and this is the way it has been for 10 yrs)
    In another post i had mentioned that the last time it was pumping I began to hear a couple episodes of crackling. Valveman responded to that post. Well this time I didnt hear any crackling and it ran normal for 16 minutes,except for this: About 1 to 2 minutes before the well stopped,i heard 2 rapid clicks and then what sounded like a 2 big thumps. The kinda thump when when you have a starter out and to test it with jumper cable .It is a torquey jerk.. i think i could see the pumptec and control box shake from the thumping.
    There was no further issue and the pump stopped pumping. At that point the control box reset didnt pop, as has recently been the case, and it remained engaged as it should. i also noticed that the pumptech face plate red trip light was on after the pump stopped too. it hadnt been doingg that lately either. This particular cycle of manually starting the pump,its running and it stopping ,all appeared normal except the clicks and thumping i heard.
    Ive heard off and on in the past this pump do the clicking and thumping. sometimes only once up to as many as 3 or 4 times in one pumping cycle. what could that be?
    Several issues in this post
    Last edited by Timbuktu; 05-26-2013 at 09:54 AM.

  2. #17
    Jack of all trades DonL's Avatar
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    That sounds like the Resettable Protector may be bad.

    Check the voltage across the Protector when the pump should be / is running, to make sure it is 0 VAC. (Closed contact)

    It sounds like you have some resistance in the circuit, somewhere.

    Seeing that Hot Melted connection, and just letting it go for months, Was a Big Error on your part. Sorry, I speak the Truth Most of the time. lol


    Be careful playing with electricity.
    Theory only works perfect in a vacuum.

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  3. #18
    DIY Senior Member BobL43's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DonL View Post
    That sounds like the Resettable Protector may be bad.

    Check the voltage across the Protector when the pump should be / is running, to make sure it is 0 VAC. (Closed contact)

    It sounds like you have some resistance in the circuit, somewhere.

    Seeing that Hot Melted connection, and just letting it go for months, Was a Big Error on your part. Sorry, I speak the Truth Most of the time. lol


    Be careful playing with electricity.
    Don speaks big truth here. that burned connection caused many current overloads to the motor and may have damaged it. I think he gave the correct advice in his previous post when he said to call in the expert. If there is a financial reason not to, I can understand, but it may take an expert on site to see what the problem is. Is the pump itself at the bottom of the well? I can't remember what you said about thet, sorry.
    I am definitely not a pro plumber, but I am a pro crastinator

  4. #19
    DIY Member Timbuktu's Avatar
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    Default take a look at my circut board please

    i want to ask 3 or 4 other questions regarding my pumptec circut board.

    Look at the pic of the circut board. Go the the Lower left corner and one inch up.Notice the screw adjustment. What is that for?

    2. On the same board look dead center and to the right 1 inch. See the powdery white. With a mag glass it looks like a thin coat of alkali. kinda like left by hard tap water,& scrapes off with my thumbnail. Could that be something sinister?

    3- Now look Rt Lower corner and up 1 inch. See the dark carbon like smudge bridging the two solder points about an inch apart. Whats that ?

    These marks have been on this board for 11 or 12 months and look the same. Ditto for the wire red twist that was blackened ...in another post

    4=Look at the side of the circut board where you see the pump cycle settings. i recall reading in the past that to reset this you turn the screw to zero. problem is I dont recal exactly the steps after that. Do you wait a certain lengh of time and then dial it to a cycle time then reinsert back on the pumptec? or what?

    In regards to my tripping issue,Im exausted and have to deal with some other issues that are piling up,but Ill check back off and on today incase anyone replies . Name:  circut board pumptec DSC05505.jpg
Views: 73
Size:  44.2 KBName:  Time set Pumptec circut board DSC05506.jpg
Views: 72
Size:  30.5 KB
    Thx

  5. #20
    Jack of all trades DonL's Avatar
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    That looks like what happens when a Cap blows.

    Are all of the Caps in that box good ?


    I would say, Maybe not.


    Do not turn the screws, or did you already ?
    Last edited by DonL; 05-28-2013 at 10:20 AM.
    Theory only works perfect in a vacuum.

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  6. #21
    DIY Senior Member BobL43's Avatar
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    To me, that rotary switche is used in an auto reset function if the unit trips on overload, to allow th emotor to cool for x amount of minutes, currently set (hard to see in photo) at 2,=45 minutes.Auto reset is not necesarily a good thing, especially if there is a constant problem, which there seems to be. The corrosion may be as you said from mineral deposits from the water, or as Don says, from leaked caps.
    I am definitely not a pro plumber, but I am a pro crastinator

  7. #22
    DIY Member Timbuktu's Avatar
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    I found the reference post under the topic"I found a used Pumptec..." heres the reference:
    Originally Posted by Timbuktu
    While the pump was running I could hear off and on the caps making a crackling type noise,oh maybe 3 or 4 times at the beginning of the pump runing. Nothing visible though. Whats that tell you?
    "Crakling" could be the start relay points. Just as likely to be the problem as the caps themselves. Will it stay running with the 2 HP box?

    And yeah, nothing else matter until you fix that bad connection!! (added I fixed that after this post)


    Dunno if the caps are good or not anymore. i recall one time during last week deal that I mentioned i heard a crackling noise coming from that area when it was pumping water,and i forget without reviewing the post what the members said it could be.
    Quote Originally Posted by DonL View Post
    That looks like what happens when a Cap blows.

    And no I didnt touch that screw.

    Are all of the Caps in that box good ?


    I would say, Maybe not.


    Do not turn the screws, or did you already ?
    Last edited by Timbuktu; 05-28-2013 at 03:51 PM.

  8. #23
    DIY Member Timbuktu's Avatar
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    yes,thanks.

    Quote Originally Posted by BobL43 View Post
    To me, that rotary switche is used in an auto reset function if the unit trips on overload, to allow th emotor to cool for x amount of minutes, currently set (hard to see in photo) at 2,=45 minutes.Auto reset is not necesarily a good thing, especially if there is a constant problem, which there seems to be. The corrosion may be as you said from mineral deposits from the water, or as Don says, from leaked caps.

  9. #24
    DIY Member Timbuktu's Avatar
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    What is a resettable protector and wheres it located?

    Quote Originally Posted by DonL View Post
    That sounds like the Resettable Protector may be bad.

    Check the voltage across the Protector when the pump should be / is running, to make sure it is 0 VAC. (Closed contact)

    It sounds like you have some resistance in the circuit, somewhere.

    Seeing that Hot Melted connection, and just letting it go for months, Was a Big Error on your part. Sorry, I speak the Truth Most of the time. lol


    Be careful playing with electricity.

  10. #25
    DIY Senior Member BobL43's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timbuktu View Post
    What is a resettable protector and wheres it located?
    do you have this info already?


    http://www.franklin-electric.com/med...IM_Catalog.pdf
    http://www.franklin-electric.com/med...7-12%20WEB.pdf

    I think if you do not, you should review thes 2 documents, as they have TONS of info, some of which **may** be of great value to you.

    Google is your friend. bing wants to be your best friend. I have to try Bing next time
    Last edited by BobL43; 05-29-2013 at 07:45 AM.
    I am definitely not a pro plumber, but I am a pro crastinator

  11. #26
    DIY Member Timbuktu's Avatar
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    Default tHE WELL MAN WAS OUT AND RETURNED WITH A VERDICT ! AND COSTS

    ITS THE PUMP !
    Ok the well man was out. He said the pump is drawing 45 amps. He unboxed a new control box just to be sure and it tripped off . With that he says its the pump .

    Here's the list As i recall they were all goulds.
    My current bad pump is a gould 10LS15 15 OR 16 GPM 1,5 HP
    here are my choices:
    1- 5gpm 1/2hp for $988+ control box labor and installation $2025
    2- 7gpm 1/2 hp $740 thought it could become overworked?
    3- 7gpm 3/4 hp for $ 906 + control box ,labor and installation $800
    4- 5 gpm 1/2hp & 110 volt Thought it may not be able to hOld siphon?? CONTROL BOX AND PULL PUMP $1643

    Warranty on product is 5yr and 1st year installation $800 no cost. Great1 I know it should last a year at least
    IT WAS HARD TO DECIDE. First I changed my mind back and forth numerous times. the big weinner is #5 i started with themost expensive and went through each one and said " for once Ill get the cheap one' Will I be sorry?

    heres my well:
    410 deep
    motor at 298 ft
    static depth 140

    Dont know the significance of those stats,but you probably will.

    What do you think about the choices i WAS GIVEN
    Last edited by Timbuktu; 05-29-2013 at 01:44 PM.

  12. #27
    DIY Member Timbuktu's Avatar
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    Default Pump died & list of replacements

    5.30 PUMP W/ 45 amps & List of pump choices: Well man was out. He said the pump is drawing 45 amps. He unboxed a new control box just to be sure and it tripped off . With that he says its the pump .

    Here's the list As i recall they were all goulds.
    My current bad pump is a gould 10LS15
    here are my choices:
    1- 5gpm 1/2hp for $988+ control box labor and installation $2025
    2- 7gpm 1/2 hp $740 thought it could become overworked?
    3- 7gpm 3/4 hp for $ 906 + control box ,labor and installation $800
    i FORGOT TO ASK THIS MAKE
    4- 5 gpm 1/2hp & 110 volt Thought it may not be able to hOld siphon?? price includes CONTROL BOX AND LABOR $1643

    Warranty on product is 5yr and 1st year installation $800 no cost. Great1 I know it should last a year at least
    IT WAS HARD TO DECIDE. First I changed my mind back and forth numerous times. the big weinner is #5 i started with themost expensive and went through each one and said " for once Ill get the cheap one' Will I be sorry?

    heres my well:
    410 deep
    motor at 298 ft
    static depth 140

    Dont know the significance of those stats,but you probably will.

    What do you think about the choices and my pick # 5 ? Its a crap shoot with my lack of knowledge.
    Last edited by Timbuktu; 05-30-2013 at 03:58 AM.

  13. #28
    Jack of all trades DonL's Avatar
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    I would go with a 240 VAC pump, To minimize voltage drop.

    The 3/4 looks like it may be the way to go, from the choices you listed.

    Did you get any Model numbers ?

    Would they be replacing the wire to the pump also ?

    Are these 45 amps 120 Volt or 240 Volt AC or DC ?

    LOL

    Good Luck.
    Last edited by DonL; 05-30-2013 at 10:09 AM.
    Theory only works perfect in a vacuum.

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  14. #29
    DIY Member Timbuktu's Avatar
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    Default The pump I ordered yesterday and some specs

    I had no time to wait for further suggestions from this forum in choosing a pump and had to commit to one yesterday so they are putting in the pump now. Its a Gould 1/2 hp 230volt 5 gpm. Dont know the model # now. The decision was to this size pump since i have 2200 gal storage tank it supplies.
    My well is a low producer. It varies from 1/2 to 1 gpm. the well will produce about 1450 gal per day and thats more than I use.
    They are adding a safety in the control box so we can be certain the pump will be able to maintain suction. What that means isnt terribly clear to me,but yall should know.

    Depth 410 ft,pump at 298 ft 140 ft static level
    Last edited by Timbuktu; 05-30-2013 at 11:12 AM. Reason: contineous mistakes

  15. #30
    Moderator valveman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timbuktu View Post
    They are adding a safety in the control box so we can be certain the pump will be able to maintain suction. What that means isnt terribly clear to be,but yall should know.
    That size pump should work fine. That pumptec IS a "control to be able to maintain suction", but I think a Cycle Sensor works better.

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