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Thread: Help with the proper connectors with cast to PVC

  1. #16
    DIY Junior Member RK05's Avatar
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    Ok, so I have some better photos of this shower drain that I hope will allow you guys to give me some better advice on how to procede. The height from the floor to the top of the drain is right at 2".










    I was looking at the sink drain and it looks and feels like the square hole is some kind of metal. I tried a little bit to get it off but it was not budging and I didn't know if it possibly could be threaded on?




    I would really like to do this myself, one so that I can say I did that and two I don't have the $$ to pay to have it done.

    Actually, we do have the money but that leaves less money elsewhere.

    Thanks all!

  2. #17
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    This is a guess...the top part of the shower drain may unscrew. Then, you'd have access to the clamping ring to take it off. Then, you'd have room to see what's left and deal with it. The squared off opening is probably distorted lead and if so, it is attached with solder. To get things off and see what you have to work with, you'll need to dig out some concrete.
    Jim DeBruycker
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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  3. #18
    DIY Junior Member RK05's Avatar
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    What would be the best way to try to unscrew the drain flange? Use a pipe wrench on in with another holding the lower nut and try unscrewing it?

    The same thing with the sink drain. If its soldered in am I going to just have to pry it out?

    Sorry for all the questions but I don't want to break anything.

    Thanks!

  4. #19
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    You'll have to wait for a pro to get a more detailed description of what to expect. When new, that upper part of the drain would just screw in/out to adjust the height to accommodate various heights of tile and the mud setting bed...after it's been in there for a long time, who's to say. The clamping ring normally has some screws or bolts holding it to the part that's actually attached to the drain (the liner would go between those two pieces). The bottom piece may be leaded to the CI. If something breaks while you try to unscrew it, it should be replaced anyway.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  5. #20
    DIY Junior Member RK05's Avatar
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    Thanks, hopefully Terry or someone else who removes these allot will chime in.

    When I stopped by the Ferguson supply house they said that was probably the type of drain that I had by showing them the pictures. The shower kit I'm putting in has a 4" hole so I will need to put in a larger drain for sure.

  6. #21
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RK05 View Post
    Thanks, hopefully Terry or someone else who removes these allot will chime in.

    When I stopped by the Ferguson supply house they said that was probably the type of drain that I had by showing them the pictures. The shower kit I'm putting in has a 4" hole so I will need to put in a larger drain for sure.
    Not necessarily...the diameter and shape of the grate adapter part could easily be 4", but it would taper down to a standard 2" drain line when you take all of the parts(while they do make 3" and 4" shower drains, you probably don't have or need one).
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  7. #22
    DIY Junior Member RK05's Avatar
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    So, it looks as if this may be a bigger project than I thought. I just got off the phone with Sterling and the reason they don't give a vertical height dimension for the drain hole is because there is none! The hole pretty much meets at the floor.

    I guess i could always put back in a bed floor like there was before and use the existing drain or see what its going to cost me to get a plumber in to drop the right drain connection into the floor.

  8. #23
    Test, Don't Guess! cacher_chick's Avatar
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    If you have the shower pan it is quite easy to see what is required. The Vickrell pans require a recess in the floor for the bottom of the shower drain assembly to sit in. I would just cut a 12" square hole in the floor and dig it out so that the riser can be inspected. With an old galvanized riser it might be best to cut it off and transition to PVC pipe to ensure a good seal to the new drain assembly.

  9. #24
    DIY Junior Member RK05's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cacher_chick View Post
    If you have the shower pan it is quite easy to see what is required. The Vickrell pans require a recess in the floor for the bottom of the shower drain assembly to sit in. I would just cut a 12" square hole in the floor and dig it out so that the riser can be inspected. With an old galvanized riser it might be best to cut it off and transition to PVC pipe to ensure a good seal to the new drain assembly.
    I think that may be my best way to tackle this.

    What would be my best way to get down and around the pipe? I want to be careful not to break it but I don't want to spend all day getting to it.

    Do I need to rent a small electric jack hammer and a concrete saw or could I possible do this with my electric demo hammer?

    I just realized there is a shower forum, should this post be removed to there?

    Thanks

  10. #25
    Test, Don't Guess! cacher_chick's Avatar
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    Small cuts like that can be made very neatly using a circular saw with a diamond blade in it. Once the cut is to the max blade depth, it can be knocked out with a few taps of a sledge. Use lots of water to keep the dust down when cutting.

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