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Thread: Toto Soiree or Guinevere review, installing, comments and pictures

  1. #61
    DIY Junior Member timcurtin's Avatar
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    I saw a post that said -

    The standard 12" with the Guinevere will work at 11-1/4" from the wall to center.
    A standard rough-in should be 12" from the finished wall, leaving 3/4" behind the tank.

    Is this the same for the Soiree?

    I want to make sure I have just enough room to wipe down my tile wall if needed with something like a swiffer or something like that.

    Thanks,
    Tim

  2. #62
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    At 12", you will have 3/4" behind the tank.


  3. #63
    DIY Junior Member timcurtin's Avatar
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    What is the recommendation for drill bit to drill into porcelain tile to install the PVC outlet connection?

  4. #64
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    You'll have the best luck with a diamond core bit. Depending on what you have available locally, Lowes sells some made by Hitachi that work. Since this type of bit is essentially a piece of pipe with diamond chips on the rim, it takes a little finesse to get the hole where you want it. Also, the things work best if you can keep them cool, so water helps. If you have some plumber's putty, make a little dam around where you want the hole and put some water in it. To start the hole, hold the drill at about a 45-degree angle and then make a divot with the edge. Once you have a divot, slowly raise the drill to vertical keeping the edge in the divot you made. This will keep it from walking all over the place. Once vertical, just keep going. Once you are through the tile and backer, you can switch to a regular drill to go through the wooden subflooring. Keep in mind that this type of bit is grinding the hole, not really cutting it like a wood bit does. I have used a carbide bit, but you may need more than one as carbide and a good, hard porcelain are often about the same hardness. Depends on the tile, some are softer than others. I've never had good luck with a steel or carbide glass bit, but they do make them with diamonds that should work; they work on wall tile, which is often quite soft, but not on a good porcelain.
    Jim DeBruycker
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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  5. #65
    DIY Member glnow's Avatar
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    Default Rear Tank Spacing

    Hi,

    Question: Does the gap between the wall and back of the tank change when using one of the non-standard uni-fit adapters?

    I've had a Guinevere for 4 years, using the 14" UF adapter. For me, the gap is just ~0.2", not 3/4" as listed in the spec sheet. Just wondering if it's because of the adapter or (more likely) my rough-in is only 13.5-ish". The reason I'm wondering now is that the wife would like subway tile on the wall behind the toilet, but there isn't room. I still have the original 12" UF, I'm thinking of using that and just having a bit of a gap with the added tile.

  6. #66
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    It's likely that your rough-in wasn't exactly 14". You can fudge the position of the toilet on the flange a little bit, but not after you've already drilled the holes for the Unifit. If you substitute the 12" Unifit, the whole toilet will move out 2" from where it is now.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  7. #67
    DIY Member glnow's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jadnashua View Post
    It's likely that your rough-in wasn't exactly 14". You can fudge the position of the toilet on the flange a little bit...
    Thanks! Just so I'm clear, you're referring to fudging the position of the uni-fit on the flange, correct?

    The floor tile is being replaced soon, so I'm going to have a chance to re-do the holes for the uni-fit. So this may work. Any idea how much play the uni-fit has on the flange? It's been a while since I installed it so I don't remember what the fit was like.

    One last thought, is there a chance that by sliding the uni-fit forward on the flange I risk smearing the wax ring enough to block the drain?

  8. #68
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    You'd need a new wax ring, as sliding it would likely create a void and therefore a possibility of a leak. You could probably get 1/4", more and it might be a problem getting the screws to hold on the flange.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  9. #69
    DIY Junior Member travelined's Avatar
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    Hi gang, one of our Guineveres is off-center in the commode area - is it possible to move these left and right at all? I'd need about 1 1/2" of play to make up the difference. It's really noticeable, since the toilet is 8" from the wall on one side and 11" on the other. It's in the basement level - the floor is slab. Thanks

  10. #70
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    The toilet can't be moved sideways (or front to back) more than a very small amount (maybe 1/4" if you are lucky) without moving the flange. I'm not sure if that toilet uses the UniFit adapter, if it does, then no, you can't move it even the 1/4" without drilling new holes in the floor. To meet code, the toilet should have 15" on either side of the centerline to any wall or other obstruction.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  11. #71
    DIY Junior Member travelined's Avatar
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    thanks - that's what I was afraid of . ..

  12. #72
    DIY Junior Member spitnfire's Avatar
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    Default Soiree with sanagloss

    Quote Originally Posted by Terry View Post
    I think I've sold over 200 of the Soiree and the Guinevere toilets from Toto. Many of the customers like them very much. It's good to hear about the tech support from Toto. I rarely have ever called them, but it's been a good experience every time.
    Hi Terry:

    Is the sanagloss really worth it? I hear stories that stuff clings to it more or it might stain? How do you clean the sanagloss? Also I hear that some sanagloss may be removed if the wrong cleaner is used and it would make toilet have a yellow hue? Also how are Toto toilets compared with vs Kohler toilets or other toilets?

  13. #73
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    I have a bowl with Sanagloss downstairs, installed in 2006. It looks like the day it was installed.
    I have a customer in Issaquah that after installing one, changed the rest of his toilets to Sanagloss. He swears by it.

    I just use a standard liquid cleaner every once in a while.

    If you read comments about "any" new bowl installed since 1992, they will mention the need for some cleaning.
    Toilets are now 1.6 or 1.28 with more porcelain surface area, and a lot less water. You have to take those comments with a grain of salt. If you compare an 80's bowl to one from 2011, yes there will be a difference. But if we are comparing "new" toilets to "new" toilets, then it's clear that Sanagloss is the way to go.
    I don't sell old bowls, I make sure old bowls are disposed and removed.

    The Toto with Sanagloss is a big improvement over the Kohler class five and class six.
    It's not even close.
    In fact, the Toto without Sanagloss is still a big improvement over Kohler.

  14. #74
    DIY Junior Member spitnfire's Avatar
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    is the soiree w/ sanagloss the best non electrical toilet out there? in your opinion.. in terms of function, and durable?

  15. #75
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    I don't see how having an electric pump would matter.

    I view the Soiree as top of the line.

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