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Thread: Vanity Plumbing Options

  1. #16
    DIY Junior Member JD3263's Avatar
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    What if I used a 2" double fixture tee and used 2" pipe instead, or reduce down to 1.5" when necessary.

    How would I go about framing a wall? Would i be building a new wall in front of the block wall? Is that only done to hide the pipes in the wall?

  2. #17
    Test, Don't Guess! cacher_chick's Avatar
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    There can be no decrease in the size as it goes downstream.

    It is common to install a regular wood frame wall and wallboard on the inside of a block wall. This is how many basements are finished. It also provides a place to run electric and plumbing in the wall.

  3. #18
    DIY Junior Member JD3263's Avatar
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    I was at Home Depot today looking at the air admittance vents and saw these two:



    Vent 1
    Does not meet ASSE 1051 which is required to meet the Interior Plumbing code.



    or Vent 2
    Which does meet plumbing code.

    There is a pretty significant difference in price if they both accomplish the same thing; however, I don't mind paying a little extra if it's worth it. Is Vent 1 really what I'm looking for?

    Thanks again for all the help!
    Last edited by Terry; 04-27-2013 at 12:05 PM.

  4. #19
    Test, Don't Guess! cacher_chick's Avatar
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    All I can say is when I held #1 in my hand it felt like a piece of crap, so I would buy the other one.

  5. #20
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    Oatey makes an AAV that is legal.
    http://www.oatey.com/products/air-admittance-valves



    Legal Oatey AAV


    Not legal Cheater Vent



    The cheater doesn't list any code approvals.

    I would use a legit AAV, not a cheater.

    This one does list code approvals
    http://www.oatey.com/doc/6%20DFU%20Tubular.pdf
    Last edited by Terry; 04-27-2013 at 12:06 PM.

  6. #21
    DIY Junior Member JD3263's Avatar
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    So, I have all my parts and I began putting everything together. I needed to replace the existing hot water shut off valve, so I picked up one of those quarter-turn valves. After I tightened it, the valve had a very very slight leak out of the back of the nut...it was just enough that you could see a tiny bit of water on your finger if you ran it across the back of the nut, underneath the pipe.

    I continued to tighten it more, but it still seemed to have that slight leak. I let it go over night and checked it again when I got home today. There doesn't appear to be a leak now; it's completely dry if I run my finger over it. Should I be worried? Or could it have just been the water escaping that was stuck behind the ferule when I installed it?

  7. #22
    DIY Junior Member JD3263's Avatar
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    Well, here's the final result...
    Also, I took off the compression shutoff valve and put on a shark bite valve. It took 10 seconds to put on and it doesn't leak.

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    Thanks for all the help!

  8. #23
    Test, Don't Guess! cacher_chick's Avatar
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    Ahhhh... forget it.
    Last edited by cacher_chick; 05-07-2013 at 07:45 PM.

  9. #24
    DIY Junior Member JD3263's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cacher_chick View Post
    Ahhhh... forget it.
    Now I'm curious...what is it?

  10. #25
    DIY Junior Member JD3263's Avatar
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    Well, I'm finished with the vanity; everything seems to be working properly with no leaks. Time will tell...

    Thanks for all your help!

    Name:  Vanity 2.jpg
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  11. #26
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    You used all the wrong fittings.
    You used water supply fittings, not waste fittings. You now have an impossible setup to snake when it's needed.
    The fitting below the ilegal cross fitting is a water pressure 90, not a long turn 90 bend.
    The 90's that turn out are the same, those should have been medium 90 bends.
    The cross should have been a double fixture fitting.
    The pipe below the double fixture fitting should have been 2"

    Last edited by Terry; 05-12-2013 at 09:07 PM.

  12. #27
    DIY Junior Member JD3263's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Terry View Post
    You used all the wrong fittings.
    You used water supply fittings, not waste fittings. You now have an impossible setup to snake when it's needed.
    The fitting below the ilegal cross fitting is a water pressure 90, not a long turn 90 bend.
    The 90's that turn out are the same, those should have been medium 90 bends.
    The cross should have been a double fixture fitting.
    The pipe below the double fixture fitting should have been 2"
    Well, I can't change it now...or at least I won't be changing it unless I run into a problem later. I designed it so I can slide the vanity boxes out if I need to.

    Those are the 90's the guy gave me at Home Depot. I showed him the exact same image I posted here and he helped me pick out the pieces. He said he is a plumber outside of HD and has been doing it for the past 30 years...I guess I got suckered.

    HD and Lowes didn't have any double fixture fittings, just those...

    Thank you for the information. I'll be sure to research the different types of fittings/90's you mentioned so that my next plumbing project will be correct.

  13. #28
    Illinois Licensed Plumber SewerRatz's Avatar
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    Should of hired a plumber

  14. #29
    DIY Junior Member JD3263's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SewerRatz View Post
    Should of hired a plumber


    I like to try and do things myself; it's more rewarding to see the final result. Albeit, it's usually better when it's done right.
    I've never done any plumbing before, or tile, or electrical, or anything to do with most of the other projects I'm working on, so it's all a big learning process.

    Thanks to you guys, I now know some more specific questions to ask if I do any more plumbing.

  15. #30
    DIY Junior Member JD3263's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Terry View Post
    The pipe below the double fixture fitting should have been 2"
    I forgot to ask...

    Are you referring to the small section of pipe below and between the cross fitting and the 90? Or are you referring to the horizontal pipe that's running to the 90 before going into the wall?
    I thought it was illegal to reduce the size as it goes downstream? I'm pretty sure the pipe that comes out of the wall is 1.5", so in that case I would need to keep it 1.5", right? Otherwise I would be reducing from 2" to 1.5".

    Thanks.

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