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Thread: Bought new Moentrol refurb kit

  1. #1
    DIY Senior Member jeff_bathroom's Avatar
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    Default Bought new Moentrol refurb kit

    Actually I bought two of them, so I hope they don't suck.
    Seems like a good idea though to make things look new, despite
    keeping the old water valve in place.

    Questions I have are in regard to replacing the shower head and bath spout.
    I've done new ones before successfully, but not replacements and I'm wondering if
    there are some tricks to that.
    Two problems I see:
    1) how do you get either the shower head or bath spout to be snug and also directed
    downward and aligned properly? I do recall screwing those on and coming to
    a point where I thought it looked good, but it was sort of loose and I thought maybe
    could go around again. Seems to me I ended up either removing or adding some nylon
    tape to make it more snug or more loose. Is that all I can do? Is this one of those things
    that you just get good at over time judging, or do even pros have to do this on and off
    bit til they get it the right tightness and alignment? Or is there hopefully a magical one
    shot neat trick?
    2) When I remove the old fixtures, should I go ahead and remove the nipple because I
    may have loosened it anyway? Last thing I want is a leak. I'd prefer not to mess with the
    connection that's through the wall, but I don't know any way to ensure that it did not unscrew
    some while unscrewing the fixture from the opposite end. If it did unscrew a little, is it a bad
    idea to just re-tape the outside connection with the new fixture and hope for the best? Or is the
    "seal" essentially broken if it unscrews a little and I have to redo both?
    Someone had told me once to use both pipe joint compound as well as teflon tape.
    That seems to have worked for me in the past. Sound ok to do that way? I aso never really
    knew what a good starting amount of tape is. One circumference, two, three?
    If I remove the nippel, I had planned on using a 1/2 wire brush to clean out the
    female connection inside the wall. Anything else I need to do to prepare it for re-
    connection?

    Thanks for any suggestions.

    Jeff

  2. #2
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    Default

    Generally if you remove a threaded pipe, it goes back in with either pipe dope or tape.

    For the shower arm, it's easier to turn them with the head on the arm, even if it's not tightened all the way yet. It gives you more leverage having that on the end.

    For the tub spout, you may need a new pipe nipple anyway, depending on the length you will need. But if the old one is still good, then that's okay too.
    Last edited by Terry; 04-22-2013 at 05:08 PM.

  3. #3
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    IF the nipple did not come out of the wall with the spout, you did not loosen it.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

  4. #4
    DIY Senior Member jeff_bathroom's Avatar
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    Default

    I had not thought about the possibility that a different length of pipe nipple might be required.
    That certainly adds a wrinkle to the job. Thanks for the leverage tip. Well, I'll take it slow and careful.
    Thanks a bunch for your help.

  5. #5
    DIY Senior Member jeff_bathroom's Avatar
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    I'll see if I can ascertain whether it has moved at all when I remove the fixture.
    If I think it hasn't then I'll leave it, as you suggest.
    Thanks for the reply. I'll let you all know how it goes. The parts are due to arrive tonight, so
    I thought I'd start removing the fixtures from one of the baths anyway.

  6. #6
    DIY Senior Member jeff_bathroom's Avatar
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    Default

    One down, one to go. It was a fiasco though. The parts they told me I could use for
    my old valve needed a lot of jury rigging to get it to actually work. The adapter could not be screwed
    all the way in, or otherwise it ends up leaning forward. The adapter is to accommodate different screwhole
    placemet of today's Moen faceplates. So, I ended up screwing it in as much as I could before it started to
    lean over. The faceplate screws then end up pulling that adapter piece taught so that it didn't really
    matter if the adapter itself was tight.
    The lefthand faceplate screw also would not go all the way in. I had to use a metal grinder to grind
    off part of the screw stub off the original valve. Now that it's done, it looks great and works well.
    But, what a pain.
    For anyone interested, this was Moen adapter #145058 that is supposed to work with all their old valves
    and any of their "moentrol" kits. If you follow my instructions, you can get it done in a snap, but this first
    time around was no fun.

    Jeff

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