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Thread: Replace Cast Iron Toilet Flange or not?

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    DIY Junior Member diverdave's Avatar
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    Default Replace Cast Iron Toilet Flange or not?

    I am remodeling a bathroom and planning to tile the floor. I laid the first layer of underlayment and now and I realize I made a mistake by cutting out the hole for the toilet flange too large. I cut it to fit over the flange so the flange won't be sitting on top of the underlayment. So that got me to thinking how would I fit the underlayment round the cast iron pipe correctly, or should I just replace the old flange altogether. I still have to add a layer of 1/4" CBU and maybe another layer of plywood, I had to add some height to the floor. So my questions are:

    1. How would I fit the plywood tightly to the cast iron pipe? Would I have to cut the plywood in half with a half circle on each side and fit it together around the pipe?
    2. Or is it best to just go ahead and replace the flange now with a PVC flange and Fernco type coupling to mate to the cast iron? The house was built in 1974 and this is the original flange. There doesn't seem to be anything wrong with it, its just old.
    3. If its best to replace the flange what is the best way to cut the old one off? Sawzall, grinder? How far below the floor would I cut it off, there is a crawlspace below so there is plenty of space to work with?

    Thanks

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  2. #2
    Test, Don't Guess! cacher_chick's Avatar
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    Don't cut anything unless you need to change the height more than 1/2".

    The flange has a ring of lead which was poured in right there, sealing it to the pipe. You can drill a bunch of holes in the lead and peel it all out, then the flange will come off.

  3. #3
    DIY Junior Member diverdave's Avatar
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    Great, thanks! I hadn't noticed the lead b/c there was still a bunch of wax covering it. I see how it is attached now and I should be able to remove it.

    I have a similar question for my shower. I was able to get the drain off (there was also a lead ring around that old drain) and now there is 2" copper coming out of the rough-in hole. I was planning on going with a PVC drain for the shower, should I cut that 2" copper below the floor and mate the PVC shower drain to the copper with a Fernco coupling? If so, how far below the floor should I make the cut?
    Thanks again

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    ACO Shower Drain Sales johnfrwhipple's Avatar
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    The fitting looks like it has a crack in it? Is that the case?


    jfrwhipple@gmail.com - www-no-curb.com - 604 506 6792

    Always get construction advice double checked by your local city hall. Flood Test Every Shower - Every Time.

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    DIY Junior Member diverdave's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnfrwhipple View Post
    The fitting looks like it has a crack in it? Is that the case?
    I don't think it is cracked. I just looked at it again and it looks like it was made that way. All of the other holes are through the metal but that one that you see in the picture has the side cut out. Would it matter if it is cracked, wouldn't I be replacing it with a PVC flange?

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    ACO Shower Drain Sales johnfrwhipple's Avatar
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    Cast iron is very heavy and very brittle. It can crack easily. I would be worried about securing this flange. But are you replacing it?

    JW


    jfrwhipple@gmail.com - www-no-curb.com - 604 506 6792

    Always get construction advice double checked by your local city hall. Flood Test Every Shower - Every Time.

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