gojoe3
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Hello valveman and others,
My Well-x-trol 44 gallon pressure tank has been malfunctioning. It short cycles when our softener or pH neutralizer backwashes.
My wife is ready to kill me it wakes her in the early am every time the softener regens or the pH tank backwashes.
I just wear earplugs and tell her I'll fix it when I have a chance to determine what is wrong. It's been a few weeks now and I'm concerned about damaging our well pump. I would like to test it to determine if the bladder has failed or if the pressure switch is bad.
I understand that in order to check the pressure in the tank, I must first shutoff the power to the pump and then drain the tank.
Then I'll use a tire gauge to check the pressure at the schrader valve on top of the tank. I understand that the pressure should be at least 2 psi less than my cut-in pressure. I check it annually and the pre-charge seemed ok, now I am wondering if I have been doing it improperly.
I recently read the "Pressure Tank Maintenance" thread posted by valveman, a portion of which I have copied and pasted below:
"To check the air pressure in a bladder tank the power to the pump must be turned off. Then a faucet should be opened until water stops coming out of the tap. While the pump is off and the faucet is still open, you can check the air pressure at the schrader valve on top of the tank. You will need to use a car tire pressure gauge on the schrader valve. The air pressure in the tank should be 2 to 10 PSI below the "start" pressure of the pump. IE; with a 40/60 pressure switch, the air pre-charge in the tank should be no higher than 38 PSI and no lower than 30 PSI. Use an air compressor to pre-charge the tank to the correct pressure. If the air is coming back out of the open faucet, then the bladder is busted. If while holding the valve core down on the schrader valve, water comes out, the bladder is busted. If the schrader valve will not accept air from the compressor, the bladder is most likely busted."
I do not understand why one would need to open a faucet to drain the tank rather than just closing the valve after the pressure tank, so that you are not draining down the entire house and any associated conditioning equipment. Why not just drain the tank using the drain valve located on the tee coming off the tank? If the pre-charge is low and air is added, would air escape out of the open drain valve if the bladder was bad?
If I check the pre-charge psi and it is correct, then I would like to replace the, 20 year old, Square-D 40/60 pressure switch with a new one, to see if that is the problem.
I read the "Replacing a Pressure Switch" thread started by rmhall17 and read the reply by sammyhydro11 .
I copied and pasted a portion here :
"You first want to make sure its not coming from a conduit that comes out of the foundation and into the switch. If it is, you need to remove that conduit and patch the foundation. If it is the switch itself, you need to replace it. Shut the power off at the circuit breaker and get yourself some electrical meters and check for voltage to be sure that it is off. You then need to turn on some faucets and drain the tank. When its drained, the gauge on the tank should read zero. Next step is to shut the main valve going to the house get a bucket,put it underneath the spigot on the tank , and open it to drain the water left in the pipe. Next you need to un wire the switch, get both the wires from the panel and the wires going to the pump out of the switch. With a wrench remove the switch and replace it. If the nipple stays in place then put some plumbers tape and pipe dope on the threads and simply screw the new switch on. If the nipple comes off with the switch, then you will have to remove the nipple from the old switch,do the tape and pipe dope on both ends of the nipple,and install the switch. Wire the switch by screwing the leads from the breaker on the outside lead terminal screws and the pump leads on the inside terminal screws. If you have a 30/50 or 40/60 switch you need to adjust the air in the tank so the pressure is 2lbs below the cut in pressure. Once that is all done, shut your drain spigot off at the tank and turn the power back on. the pressure should build to its shut off pressure. Turn the water on slowly to the house and the pressure will start to drop. If all your settings are right, it should cut in at the switches set cut in pressure. Once it cuts in shut the water off to gthe house and make sure it builds to the correct pressure. If it does just turn the valve back on, shut your faucets off and you are good."
I will be draining and testing my tank today and if the bladder seems good then I will be replacing the switch. So these directions are great, but I was wondering if I really need to drain down the entire house using faucets to drain the tank, or can I just drain the tank using the drain valve on the tee?
BTW, I had a well guy here on Monday to assess the situation. He said I needed a new pressure tank. He did not test anything. I just told him it was short cycling when the water conditioning equipment was backwashing.
I am not familiar with all Forum etiquette so I hope it is ok to use Bold to highlight.
I appreciate any suggestions. Thank you.
My Well-x-trol 44 gallon pressure tank has been malfunctioning. It short cycles when our softener or pH neutralizer backwashes.
My wife is ready to kill me it wakes her in the early am every time the softener regens or the pH tank backwashes.
I just wear earplugs and tell her I'll fix it when I have a chance to determine what is wrong. It's been a few weeks now and I'm concerned about damaging our well pump. I would like to test it to determine if the bladder has failed or if the pressure switch is bad.
I understand that in order to check the pressure in the tank, I must first shutoff the power to the pump and then drain the tank.
Then I'll use a tire gauge to check the pressure at the schrader valve on top of the tank. I understand that the pressure should be at least 2 psi less than my cut-in pressure. I check it annually and the pre-charge seemed ok, now I am wondering if I have been doing it improperly.
I recently read the "Pressure Tank Maintenance" thread posted by valveman, a portion of which I have copied and pasted below:
"To check the air pressure in a bladder tank the power to the pump must be turned off. Then a faucet should be opened until water stops coming out of the tap. While the pump is off and the faucet is still open, you can check the air pressure at the schrader valve on top of the tank. You will need to use a car tire pressure gauge on the schrader valve. The air pressure in the tank should be 2 to 10 PSI below the "start" pressure of the pump. IE; with a 40/60 pressure switch, the air pre-charge in the tank should be no higher than 38 PSI and no lower than 30 PSI. Use an air compressor to pre-charge the tank to the correct pressure. If the air is coming back out of the open faucet, then the bladder is busted. If while holding the valve core down on the schrader valve, water comes out, the bladder is busted. If the schrader valve will not accept air from the compressor, the bladder is most likely busted."
I do not understand why one would need to open a faucet to drain the tank rather than just closing the valve after the pressure tank, so that you are not draining down the entire house and any associated conditioning equipment. Why not just drain the tank using the drain valve located on the tee coming off the tank? If the pre-charge is low and air is added, would air escape out of the open drain valve if the bladder was bad?
If I check the pre-charge psi and it is correct, then I would like to replace the, 20 year old, Square-D 40/60 pressure switch with a new one, to see if that is the problem.
I read the "Replacing a Pressure Switch" thread started by rmhall17 and read the reply by sammyhydro11 .
I copied and pasted a portion here :
"You first want to make sure its not coming from a conduit that comes out of the foundation and into the switch. If it is, you need to remove that conduit and patch the foundation. If it is the switch itself, you need to replace it. Shut the power off at the circuit breaker and get yourself some electrical meters and check for voltage to be sure that it is off. You then need to turn on some faucets and drain the tank. When its drained, the gauge on the tank should read zero. Next step is to shut the main valve going to the house get a bucket,put it underneath the spigot on the tank , and open it to drain the water left in the pipe. Next you need to un wire the switch, get both the wires from the panel and the wires going to the pump out of the switch. With a wrench remove the switch and replace it. If the nipple stays in place then put some plumbers tape and pipe dope on the threads and simply screw the new switch on. If the nipple comes off with the switch, then you will have to remove the nipple from the old switch,do the tape and pipe dope on both ends of the nipple,and install the switch. Wire the switch by screwing the leads from the breaker on the outside lead terminal screws and the pump leads on the inside terminal screws. If you have a 30/50 or 40/60 switch you need to adjust the air in the tank so the pressure is 2lbs below the cut in pressure. Once that is all done, shut your drain spigot off at the tank and turn the power back on. the pressure should build to its shut off pressure. Turn the water on slowly to the house and the pressure will start to drop. If all your settings are right, it should cut in at the switches set cut in pressure. Once it cuts in shut the water off to gthe house and make sure it builds to the correct pressure. If it does just turn the valve back on, shut your faucets off and you are good."
I will be draining and testing my tank today and if the bladder seems good then I will be replacing the switch. So these directions are great, but I was wondering if I really need to drain down the entire house using faucets to drain the tank, or can I just drain the tank using the drain valve on the tee?
BTW, I had a well guy here on Monday to assess the situation. He said I needed a new pressure tank. He did not test anything. I just told him it was short cycling when the water conditioning equipment was backwashing.
I am not familiar with all Forum etiquette so I hope it is ok to use Bold to highlight.
I appreciate any suggestions. Thank you.