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Thread: Preferred Makes/Models - Tileover Access Panels

  1. #1
    DIY Senior Member chefwong's Avatar
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    Default Preferred Makes/Models - Tileover Access Panels

    Do you guys have any *preferrend* brands/models of tileover access panels.

    I want to incorporate one somewhere....where I can turn off the water feed to the bathroom.
    Tile size is not even selected or determined, but starting the homework

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    DIY Senior Member chefwong's Avatar
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    Bumpity Bump.

    There are tons out just when I Google. Just never *held* one in my hands.

    I've used access panels in various brands for *sheetrock*, and there is a certainly a difference in *fit, finish and function* from the different makes.

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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Had you considered something like this: http://www.schluter.com/11_1_rema.aspx
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Last edited by jadnashua; 05-19-2013 at 07:02 PM.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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    DIY Senior Member chefwong's Avatar
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    I've seen that. That's just a magnetic catch. I don't like the concept/design/
    I'd prefer some sort of hinged door system where there is less chance of a tile/panel dropping down.

    The drawback to the hinged door system is the larger gap on the hinged side..

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    ACO Shower Drain Sales johnfrwhipple's Avatar
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    Chef access panels are an eye sore.

    Most times we just tile the job and if need be bang out a tile and reset later. You can pre cut replacement tiles and leave them inside the cavity for the repair later.

    If you need access on a regular bases why not use some kitchen cabinet hinges and make a proper door...

    JW


    jfrwhipple@gmail.com - www-no-curb.com - 604 506 6792

    Always get construction advice double checked by your local city hall. Flood Test Every Shower - Every Time.

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    DIY Senior Member chefwong's Avatar
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    The goal was to put the access panel right around the drain outlet by the sink....as it's a half pedestal sink and it should cover most of the access panel for the most part.

    Having the ability to shut off zones has been great. I've been incorporating them as much as I can when I remodel - without having to shut the whole house down, I can just shut off zones.

    I suppose the valves in the wall still accomplish the same function - as the reality is that the only time the *next time* water will need to be off, is if it's getting a GUT and remodel

  7. #7
    DIY Junior Member jswordy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chefwong View Post
    The goal was to put the access panel right around the drain outlet by the sink....as it's a half pedestal sink and it should cover most of the access panel for the most part.

    Having the ability to shut off zones has been great. I've been incorporating them as much as I can when I remodel - without having to shut the whole house down, I can just shut off zones.

    I suppose the valves in the wall still accomplish the same function - as the reality is that the only time the *next time* water will need to be off, is if it's getting a GUT and remodel
    Dunno what floor you're on, but I put my line cutoff valves in the crawlspace. I agree they are nice to have, especially since science has shown us that a leak will not start unless it is 2 a.m. on Sunday. A simple twist "cures" it until it can be fixed.

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    DIY Senior Member DougB's Avatar
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    What I've done is frame the opening and made a panel with cement board. I tiled the wall, cutting the tile so the panel is removable. Caulk the joint, with the least amount - this will hold the panel in place. If you ever need access, just cut out the caulk.
    If a hammer won't fix it, it's an electrical problem.

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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    You can do essentially the same thing with the magnetic latches...caulk around it, then cut it if you ever need access.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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    DIY Senior Member chefwong's Avatar
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    The ONLY time I use caulk is for windows, doors, sealing a undermount sink to stone , and or just touching up a gap between paintgrade trim. And for all these applications, it's generally a *sealant* except for trim, in which I use Urethanized Elastomeric caulk.

    Caulk - it will NOT match up in sheen or texture with any of the grout lines...this is a poor idea . No offense for those suggesting it - just not my cup of tea.

    Ha. Surely I would have thought someone has incorporated shut off valves with a finished tiled wall.

  11. #11
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Many rough-in valves are available with integrated shutoff valves....it's just that 20-years down the road when you may need them, you (or the next owner) forgot or didn't know they existed, or they may no longer work well. These can generally be accessed if you remove the trim IF you cut your hole based on the mud guard.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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    DIY Senior Member DougB's Avatar
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    @chefwong: "Caulk - it will NOT match up in sheen or texture with any of the grout lines...this is a poor idea . No offense for those suggesting it - just not my cup of tea."

    I don't know what kind of caulk you have used, but most grout manufactrers have their own sanded/unsanded caulk to match their grout. You are supposed to caulk at change of plane, between the tub and tile, etc.

    Check out this place: http://colorriteinc.com/
    If a hammer won't fix it, it's an electrical problem.

  13. #13
    DIY Senior Member chefwong's Avatar
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    I've user Color-Rite. It's not a exact match..and I'm sure some colors may be better than others in color matching.
    I have my own *methods* on changes of plane....and part of this is due to type of grout I am using(I suspect)....
    I stopped using caulk at changes of plane as I got wiser with technique and materials used and saw that said products do no crack...YMMV

    Below is color tite matched caulk . Not a close match, but I suppose its still better than clear, white or almond.


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    DIY Senior Member chefwong's Avatar
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    We're talking about shut offs on the risers - right before it feeds the bathroom for the full SUPPLY throughout it. Not a shower/tub valve...


    Quote Originally Posted by jadnashua View Post
    Many rough-in valves are available with integrated shutoff valves....it's just that 20-years down the road when you may need them, you (or the next owner) forgot or didn't know they existed, or they may no longer work well. These can generally be accessed if you remove the trim IF you cut your hole based on the mud guard.

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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    IN a typical bathroom, the only fixtures that don't normally have separate shutoffs are those in the tub/shower, so while shutting the entire room off may be useful, normally, that isn't an issue since you can shut off each thing individually (if you use in-line shutoffs on the shower rough-in valve), which is why I mentioned it.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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